I replaced the thermostat,let the car idle and it took a while but it eventually crawled over to 260 degrees without the fans coming on. I cracked the bleeder valve slowly until I got coolant coming out but the fans never kicked on.The fan doesnt come on with the ac turned on either.

 

This sounds a LOT like the '97 Grand Prix I battled with. So, what I am hearing is the guage creeps up, but NOTHING gets it to go back down (other then disconnect the temp sensor to remove the reading). And it sounds like no air is in the system (or nothing note worth).

I am NOT going to recommend this, but as the Grand Prix guage I was working on was 260+, I was touching a LOT of stuff to feel temp (T-stat housing, LIM/UIM, valve covers) and nothing was HOT, really warm, but certainly NOT 260 degrees.

I spent a LONG time battling with that Grand Prix, and I did NOT listen to advise one person gave me and it would have saved me a LOT of frustration. Get a hold of someone with a Tech II, Snap-On or some other scanner that will read the data stream from the car computer!!

What you want to see is what temp does the car's computer say it's running at (this is why you need access to the scan tool, it will read what the computer says the temp is, NOT the guage). In the case of the Grand Prix, I finally had a friend come over with his Scan tool and that's what he found, I had a BAD instrument cluster in that car. The cluster guage read REALLY high, but the computer reported everything as being fine. The computer data was correct, the guage was bad.

Save yourself the time, have this checked out. I have a feeling you might find the car is not really overheating, it might be a bad guage.

 

I talked to a shop owner today that is one of my accounts and he told me to bring the car by and he will scan and check it out no charge.I feel sorry for these small shops that refuse to go back to school and spend money on the proper scan tools.Guessing is over! And it is getting rare to see a old car on the road now unless its a classic!

 

#1 as a certified mechanic working in a small shop, I agree about school and scanner being up to date. I'm glad I take refresher courses and my shop owner spends money like mad for scan tools.

I think you may have and issue with the PCM check to see when garage checks to see if the fans are being commanded on by the PCM and if you can turn them on with the scanner. My guess is PCM corrosion internally, do you live where there is road salt? The PCM should be well protected but it happens. And maybe a mouse chewed a wire possibly.

 

Update: I just got a call from the shop and he states that the PCM and the BCM is fried from the previous monkey hacks crossing wires.He says $1600 to replace the both and still doesnt guarantee that the car will be right.I am thinking of having the car towed for a second opinion. I know some shops are better than others. What you guys think?

 

Usually just one will be fried it's not common for both to go at the same time. $1600 sounds high should be more like $1200-$1300 for both. If the bcm was bad lots of other problems than just what your describing should be a problem. Ask them if they will just replace the PCM first and try a different garage for diagnosis.

 

I talked to the shop today which is a customer of mine and he said the BCM is fried due to someone hacking and splicing a bunch of wires under the dash.He said he would normally charge a regular customer about $950 to repair but he will do it for me for $475! He said nothing about the PCM.It just goes to show some shops dont know what the hell they are doing and/or dont want to do certain jobs.I will have the car back in a few days and let you know how its working.
JUSTIN:You are correct there were other things that wasnt working.......radio(aftermarket) didnt shut off when door opened but did after some minutes,cruise did not work,interior lights did not come on when door was opened but will work if key is put in door.
What do I lose by installing a aftermarket radio?