I just redid mine & it only took .9 somthin

 

yea i guess i could try those wires and see how it runs
as for the trans i'll send them an email later tonight
and yea i guess i will just get a recharge, the most important thing is to get it running first lol

i really dont know crap about the ac system lol

yea i remember you getting a new motor man
i hope mine lasts me a while, i need to do everything right while the motor is going to be out the car

Its cool tad

man i have some work to do then lol
lets just hope everything goes well as ive never done this before lol

 

so i got a motor today, L26 from an 05 GP for $400 unknown mileage lol hopefully its a good running motor. it did come with 101 day warranty so thats a good thing i guess. i personally saw the the car in the yard and it was in great shape. was wrecked on the side, driver door. leather in it was in great shape too so it looked like it was taken care of

i started working on mine and got most of the harness wiring out the way, also alternator and other accessories. i have to drain the fluids now and get the suspension out of the way to get the axels out
thats probably going to be tomorrow though. what sucks is that i work wednesday-sunday from 3pm to 11:30pm or sometimes later so im not going to have much time to work on it during the day

anyway i have some questions. on the L26 i noticed that on the UIM it has the EVAP/vacuum lines that L36's have on the TB. will i just have to block that off if i decide to use my TB with the L26 UIM? and will i be able to run those L26 coils or should i just use my L36 ones?

 

I also have a question & dont feel like making a thread whats the main differences between a L36 & L26?

 

Pics of course


L26



Old motor



there was coolant all on my TB when i removed it and you can see how bad my UIM was leaking lol



some progress lol

 

ive never heard of the series 3 N/A engine (L26) having forged internals but i could be wrong. i know the series 3 SC engine (L32) has forged internals

to do this swap you will need the adapter plate from zzp. your fuel rails and injectors will work. there is some other things you would have to do to swap the plastic plenum on, you just cant pop it on and go. there is a emissions port on the series 3 that is not on the series 2 so it would need plugged by just swapping upper plenums. i highly recommend getting the adapter plate the aluminum plenum is better anyway and you can make them shiny

the harness will swap right over and trans will bolt right up.

actually the series 3 rails wont even work because they are a returnless system and your car is setup to return unused fuel so you have to use your rails. they fit trust me i have the L36 rails and injectors, L26 plenum on my car with a L36 lower intake, L26 heads, L67 bottom end.

it will work with the trans no issues. all you need is the adapter plate from zzp to use the l26 plenum, its easier to do this than putting the l36 plastic plenum on do to having to plug emissions ports or you will have vacuum leaks.

the swap would apply to you but your going the opposite way so not exactly. i think the oil adapter is the same. the rear manifold may be different material but made to fit the same way.

DONT USE ZZP WIRES! there junk and will cause nothing but issues down the road its almost guaranteed. either use ac delco wires which are factory replacement or if you want aftermarket wires but PRJ wires. PRJ wires are excellent but pricy and you wouldnt benefit in performance from them it would be for looks only.

i suggest all gm factory gaskets, i hate felpro and all the other brands of knock off gaskets. ive seen so many of them leak and not hold up. def use the aluminum lower intake gaskets!

you dont need to disconnect lines to the ac compressor just unbolt it and push it forward towards the radiator a little and the engine will slide out with the ac lines attached

also just my opinion, i would pull the trans with it. there is a bolt in the back where the trans follows along the engine that bolts the trans to engine and it is a nightmare to get to in the car. also when aligning the trans and engine in the car can be a complete nightmare as well. i did it both ways (pulled engine and left trans and then pulled both and i will pull both every time) its a little more work to get the trans out with it (disconnecting master cylinder, poping axles out of trans and a few other things) you will have to bleed all 4 brakes but its worth it in my opinion.

replace the knock sensors, crank sensor, cam sensor if you can since there easy to get to when the engine is out

you will need a crank pulley puller or you can rent it at advance auto parts or auto zone if you dont wanna buy one.

dont forget gasket sealers, thread lock, thread sealant etc where needed. be sure to use correct torque specs for all bolts.

buy a haynes manual there very helpful for first timers. if you have any questions PM me or message me on FB or even text/call me man ill be glad to help ya. ive only did 5 builds now and no they wern't all on the monte

ive done a L26 sc build, L36 turbo build, L67 turbo build, L67 sc build, L32 sc build lol

o and as far as disconnecting the fuel rails the tool is very cheap but honestly it can be done with your fingers, i have the tool and dont use it i just squeeze the clip with my fingers and pop it off

and as i told you on FB man it sucks to have your baby sitting not running. i know how you feel ive been there twice with turbo monte i wish you the best on getting it running very soon!!!!!

 

At least its coming along! Too bad you couldnt find out how many miles were on the motor.

 

I got thinking, if you had the VIN to the car, you MIGHT be able to do a public record search or a CarFax type report and get a "rough" estimate on the mileage (as, at least in my state, mileage gets reported during basic emissions tests and sometimes other intervals).

The coils are the same from the 3100/3400/L36 and L26. The only different coils of this style I know of are the L67 coils. So, no issues running the coils with the engine OR your original ones.

As for the vac lines, check that link I sent you last night from a Bonneville forum of the guy who did a UIM swap, I believe he talks about all that.

It looks like the L26 forged internals varies on year (at least if you can trust Wikipedia).

As for gaskets, GM just puts their name on another vendor's gaskets. I've used the FelPro aluminum gaskets successfully on 3 different 3800s (including my own). Zero issues, it was a great kit each time. I've used Fel-Pro on other jobs without fail. But the MOST important thing said STAY with aluminum gaskets no matter what vendor

 

Yes, the rockers, retainers, locks and springs need to be removed in order to replace the seals. You will also need a valve spring compressor so you can remove the retainers and locks. Depending on whether or not you remove the heads will determine the type of compressor you need. One style is an 'on car' type that will either be hand held or utilize a stud in the head as a fulcrum point. The other style is a 'C' compressor that has an adjustable clamp and lever to compress the spring. An old trick I use for on car replacement when a compressor isn't available is to feed some nylon rope into the cylinder through the spark plug hole, then rotate the engine to bring the piston to the top of the cylinder. The piston will compress the rope and hold it tight against the heads of the valves and prevent them from falling into the cylinder once the retainers and locks have been removed.

 

It's been said in a few places. The biggest thing is the redesigned UIM. It's now aluminum instead of plastic so it doesn't warp and give those problems.

They gave the S3 forged internals starting in 2005, in 2004 it was SUPPOSED to get it on the L26, but Flint didn't make enough of them in time, so only the supercharged S3 got them.

The L26 is also electronic throttle and a returnless fuel system. And the LIM gaskets were the metal ones that we now buy and put on our L36s haha.

They also went through and made emissions even better for the series 3.

The best part though is the redesigned UIM.