My monte is dead :(
so i got a motor today, L26 from an 05 GP for $400 unknown mileage 
lol hopefully its a good running motor. it did come with 101 day warranty so thats a good thing i guess. i personally saw the the car in the yard and it was in great shape. was wrecked on the side, driver door. leather in it was in great shape too so it looked like it was taken care of
i started working on mine and got most of the harness wiring out the way, also alternator and other accessories. i have to drain the fluids now and get the suspension out of the way to get the axels out
thats probably going to be tomorrow though. what sucks is that i work wednesday-sunday from 3pm to 11:30pm or sometimes later so im not going to have much time to work on it during the day
anyway i have some questions. on the L26 i noticed that on the UIM it has the EVAP/vacuum lines that L36's have on the TB. will i just have to block that off if i decide to use my TB with the L26 UIM? and will i be able to run those L26 coils or should i just use my L36 ones?
lol hopefully its a good running motor. it did come with 101 day warranty so thats a good thing i guess. i personally saw the the car in the yard and it was in great shape. was wrecked on the side, driver door. leather in it was in great shape too so it looked like it was taken care ofi started working on mine and got most of the harness wiring out the way, also alternator and other accessories. i have to drain the fluids now and get the suspension out of the way to get the axels out
thats probably going to be tomorrow though. what sucks is that i work wednesday-sunday from 3pm to 11:30pm or sometimes later so im not going to have much time to work on it during the day
anyway i have some questions. on the L26 i noticed that on the UIM it has the EVAP/vacuum lines that L36's have on the TB. will i just have to block that off if i decide to use my TB with the L26 UIM? and will i be able to run those L26 coils or should i just use my L36 ones?
only unbolt the lower struts from the spindle and it will give you enough room to pop out the axles
thats the lines i said above need plugged lol the emissions/evap lines that would cause a vacuum leak lol only thing is the car may throw a evap code if not connected but find someone close to you that has a tuner and have them disable the evap code and ta-da the lights gone. the coils are the same i believe.
same block
same heads
same exhaust routing
bottom end internals i believe are damn near the same if not the exact same (meaning compression etc)
lower intake has evap ports in it in L26 and not on L36
plenum on L36 is junky plastic L26 plenum is aluminum
tb's are way different
fuel rails are way different (L36 are return style L26 are returnless)
L26 plenum to TB is different mounting then L36 plenum to TB.
l36 TB has evap ports on it L26 TB doesnt
same sensors
L26 has aluminum lower intake gaskets from factory L36 had plastic crappy ones from factory.
this is all i can think of at the moment lol
It's been said in a few places. The biggest thing is the redesigned UIM. It's now aluminum instead of plastic so it doesn't warp and give those problems.
They gave the S3 forged internals starting in 2005, in 2004 it was SUPPOSED to get it on the L26, but Flint didn't make enough of them in time, so only the supercharged S3 got them.
The L26 is also electronic throttle and a returnless fuel system. And the LIM gaskets were the metal ones that we now buy and put on our L36s haha.
They also went through and made emissions even better for the series 3.
The best part though is the redesigned UIM.
They gave the S3 forged internals starting in 2005, in 2004 it was SUPPOSED to get it on the L26, but Flint didn't make enough of them in time, so only the supercharged S3 got them.
The L26 is also electronic throttle and a returnless fuel system. And the LIM gaskets were the metal ones that we now buy and put on our L36s haha.
They also went through and made emissions even better for the series 3.
The best part though is the redesigned UIM.
Man i have a bunch of homework to do with all this info 
lol
i got the compressor off, just 4 bolts and it seperates from motor, no need to disconnect any lines
fuel lines i also removed just with my fingers. right now i removed 2 oil lines that go to the trans. why do they go into the radiator at the other end though?
i also removed my Downpipe, radiator hoses... drained the oil and coolant.
now to remove my wheels and struts and try to pop out the axels and unbolt the engine and trans mount. and whatever else hasnt been removed lol then the motor should be ready to come out
i also have all lines and wire harness out of the way now
thanks a bunch for the help everyone!!
lol i got the compressor off, just 4 bolts and it seperates from motor, no need to disconnect any lines
fuel lines i also removed just with my fingers. right now i removed 2 oil lines that go to the trans. why do they go into the radiator at the other end though?
i also removed my Downpipe, radiator hoses... drained the oil and coolant.
now to remove my wheels and struts and try to pop out the axels and unbolt the engine and trans mount. and whatever else hasnt been removed lol then the motor should be ready to come out
i also have all lines and wire harness out of the way now thanks a bunch for the help everyone!!
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 12,601
From: Mentor, Ohio
Hey Frank, interested in solid rubber W-Body trans and lower engine mounts while you're at this?
I got some for sale..... lol
I got some for sale..... lol
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 12,601
From: Mentor, Ohio
FYI - For those wanting to do an L26 aluminum UIM swap, and keep close to all factory "style" (such as vacuum lines and all), here is a NICE right up with detailed pics:
BonnevillePRO.com • View topic - L26 aluminum UIM on L36--Done! With results!!
BonnevillePRO.com • View topic - L26 aluminum UIM on L36--Done! With results!!
Monte Of The Month -- August 2012
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,074
From: Seattle
what noises was the engine making before? mine makes a ticking type noise when it's cold but it's good when it's warm