You could try working with these guys for bolts: www.alloyboltz.com
They claim they can make custom sets.... We just ordered a bolt kit they had listed for my friend's Turbo T/A.
I wish I would have replaced all the LIM/UIM/valve cover bolts on the Monte with stainless (would have looked better then what I have). If I ever rip into her again, I may look into it. Especially the valve covers.

BTW - If you look at the T-body, you'll see it was designed to be able to offer different ports to connect vac lines to (but they are capped). When looking at the write up about modding the L26 UIM to work with an L36, the guy did NOT want to mod the T-body and corrected the PCV issue by tapping into the adapter plate. I suspect you COULD use one of the access points on the T-body instead of modding the adapter plate (but I'd have to re-study it). He was making the point you wanted to get metered air (after the MAF sensor) and it has to be before the throttle/butterfly plate (where he tapped into the adaptor plate was to re-direct the factory connection the the L36 UIM uses but the L26 does not). But again, would have to study the piece parts.

 

Thanks Lou
and yep took a small drive to go get em but at least now i can get the motor out soon, and the engine stand will definitely help out alot! lol

i dont wanna go through all the hassle of ordering stuff and trying to get the right ones i'll just check local hardware stores first and see what i can work with lol im just going to clean all of my bolts up with a small wire wheel on the dremel

and which TB are you talking about? the L36 one or L26?
i was thinking of just using the existing line and connecting it back how it was on the L36 TB and extend it if need be lol i'm talking about that line/hose that comes from the evap solenoid (i think its called) and the fuel regulator
then i would just cap off the two ports on the L26 UIM. Im probably going to have to extend the connectors for the TB too aren't i?
i guess i'll just have to find out when the motor goes back in lol i have a long way to go still

 

yes its normal for oil to be there, there is bolts in that oil bolting the lower intake down FYI lol. you can use the aluminum oil pan but you will have to grind the engine bracket a little to get it to fit without hitting. very easy to do trust me.

the nipple port on the top of the l26 plenum will need to breath fresh air that is a crank case vent. your evap system will stay connected to the L36 tb

 

What I'm taking about does not matter if you use a L36 or L67 TB. Below is a shot of the outlet side of the L67 and L36 TBs. Where I drew a red arrow is a passage to get air that bypasses the throttle plate and feeds the L36 PCV system. The L26 UIM does NOT have a way to use this (as Turbo Monte said "the nipple port on the top of the l26 plenum will need to breath fresh air that is a crank case vent."). If it does not breath, I believe the write up I shared from the Bonneville forum mentions that you will have too much vacuum (this can become an issue).


Now, below is a pic from the Bonneville thread. He adapted the spacer plate to use that vac port I pointed to above and direct it out to where he can then connect it to the nipple on the L26 UIM (as seen with the red lines in the below picture), thus, solving the problem with the vacuum issue.
If you look at my green line in the on the throttle body, I cannot CONFIRM this (as I have not studied this specific problem), I suspect Hitachi designed that as a vac port for a different application (yes, our T-bodies are made by Hitachi). I speculate (again, it requires verification) that you could drill that, put a fitting on it and it might be a HECK of a lot easier to remedy the PCV vac issue. But again, some research that I have not done would be required.



Hope the pics help

 

FYI - I know it's late, and I'm about to go to bed, but I was just in the garage. I have an extra L67 T-body (in pieces) laying around my garage. And I looked where I pointed a green arrow as a possible connection for the PCV system, that *should* work. That is in fact a plug for an opening right before the throttle plate and after the MAF!! I can see the hole on the inside of the T-body for it, so you can probably drill the plug that is in there, pull it out and I'd be tempted to fill the old one with epoxy or JB Weld.

And even though I looked at an L67, the L36 should be enough identical that you should see the same findings I did!! I could confirm it, but I don't want to go digging through boxes to find my original L36 T-body.....

 

Home from work at last!!! lol I sure won't be getting up early in the morning :p

And thanks for the great info once again guys if it wasn't for y'all I would've just went with another 3800 S2 lol that's the same thing some guy on the Bonnie forum said after doin the swap too haha but it's true though
So I guess a little grinding will have to be done to keep the alum. Oil pan.. No biggie
And I now see what yall are saying on the top UIM nipple. Where do the GP's originally have that vac line running from? Cus I was thinking I could just get a hose on that top nipple and maybe connect it on my air intake elbow somehow, that should give it enough breathing air I'm guessin
Or Maybe I can come up with something else like that pic Jason posted. Where it's ported on the adapter plate

I got the ZZP adapter in the mail today, along with my trans solenoids
I think it's crazy how a small piece of aluminum like that costs $108 though lol
For what it does, I think it's worth it But they could've at least polished it, now I have to do it :p haha



And this is where I left off before work earlier yesterday I should say, since it's Saturday already Lol
I was just going to use a piece of seat belt to lift it but I don't trust it Lol what do y'all think?
I did find a piece of chain just incase, as you can see in the pic but there is no way I'm using that when I drop the shiny L26 in haha

Oh and BTW Jason, they didn't have anymore of those Movers Blankets at HB
I guess i'll use more old bed sheets tomorrow lol

 

So after all of this... you still want a 7th Gen??

 

Maybe lol

 

I'm honestly surprised how much an old seat belt can hold, I've seen the people in the salvage yards use them to lift engines. I would opt for the chain though, it's easier to ensure it's supported properly.

 

Yea that's how they loaded the motor loaded onto the truck lol
I don't trust it with the trans on there though lol
Probably going to get a full length seatbelt and loop it twice when I put the L26 in I don't wanna scratch up my UIM with that rusty chain lol