Knocking
#31
So the news isnt good, oil pressure checked out fine and the mechanic said its coming from the bottom. So presumably its a rod or a bearing thats gone. I put a bottle of rislone in after I left the shop, but that didn't do much lol.
#32
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mentor, Ohio
Posts: 12,156
Ouch.... Yeah, if that noise is from the bottom, it could be a spun bearing (that is my first guess).
On some RWD v8's, I've heard of people replacing failed road bearings with the engine in the car, just dropping the oil pan.... Not sure how easy that is to do on your 3100... Also not sure if a failed rod bearing did any additional internal damage....
That stinks!
On some RWD v8's, I've heard of people replacing failed road bearings with the engine in the car, just dropping the oil pan.... Not sure how easy that is to do on your 3100... Also not sure if a failed rod bearing did any additional internal damage....
That stinks!
#33
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mentor, Ohio
Posts: 12,156
BTW - Found this note in the shop book:
Knocks on Start-Up but Only Lasts a Few Seconds
The following conditions may produce engine knocks on initial start-up, but only last a few seconds:
Knocks on Start-Up but Only Lasts a Few Seconds
The following conditions may produce engine knocks on initial start-up, but only last a few seconds:
• Improper oil viscosity.
- Install proper oil viscosity for expected temperatures.
- Refer to Maintenance and Lubrication.
• Hydraulic lifter bleed down
- Clean, test and replace hydraulic lifter, as necessary.
- When the engine is off, some valves will open. Spring pressure against the lifters will tend to bleed the lifter down. Repair the lifter only if the problem is consistent.
- Engines operated for only short periods between start-ups may have lifter noise that lasts for a few minutes. This is a normal condition.
• Excessive crankshaft end clearance; Replace the crankshaft thrust bearing.
• Excessive front main bearing clearance; Replace the worn parts.
• Timing chain tensioner malfunction; Clean, inspect and replace the timing chain tensioner, if required.
#34
Not going to bother fixing it really, not worth it. I'll just drive it local until I can either sell it or it craps out all together.
#35
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mentor, Ohio
Posts: 12,156
If you reconsider and decide to keep the ol' '97, I think a 3400 upgrade is in order
Admittedly, I know that's not something on the table for you. At 170K+ miles, larger repair jobs are tougher to justify. I'm just glad this is not your only ride, when she finally has had enough, you still have a reliable car ready and waiting.
Or as you said, someone may buy it as a fixer-upper.
Thanks for updating us on what was found (just wish it was more positive).
Admittedly, I know that's not something on the table for you. At 170K+ miles, larger repair jobs are tougher to justify. I'm just glad this is not your only ride, when she finally has had enough, you still have a reliable car ready and waiting.
Or as you said, someone may buy it as a fixer-upper.
Thanks for updating us on what was found (just wish it was more positive).
#36
#37
I wish it was more positive too, I'd love to do a 3400 swap or something but I just cant afford to lol. She does have a host of other small problems but for the most part the car itself isn't too bad. Mike, I replied to you in the blog.
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