When you splice it make sure its soldered (probably spelled wrong) and use shrink tube to seal the bare wires.

 

Lol I posted same time as you.... guess were both correct on how to fix it haha

 

Ah OK so I don't really need the pigtail then coming out of the hub? Yeah the pigtail is cut off the hub side. But there is about 3-4 inch of wire hanging out of the hub. The only thing is I'm not that good at soldering. LOL

I will probably get a new hub I can pick one up on Ebay for like $29 shipped and then the wiring harness itself is another $25 shipped from Amazon. So I could get it all done for like $60.

So on a side note this is thrown off my trac control and I live in Michigan so winter could be brutal. How is this thing going to handle in the snow with no trac control? Am I going to wanna fix this? Is it going to be tough to drive without it?

 

first off don't buy a cheap wheel hub/ bearing they will fall apart very quickly, buy a quality hub or don't waste your money and keep what you got.

second I wouldn't bypass the connector its there for a easy way to unplug to change the hub and if you delete the connector then every time you need to change the hub you need to cut and resolder the wires.

I believe it will throw the trac light along with the abs light. with trac off you will get full power to the wheels even when spinning, trac on will not let the tires spin very fast to try and get them to grip... every time I got stuck trac control on would not get me out, trac control off I could spin the tires and turn wheel back and forth and get out... IMO I hate trac control and abs brakes and I have deleted them both on turbo monte

 

I second Turbo Monte on this....
Get a Timken hub, other wise, a cheapy just means you will probably do it again just out of warranty. Not worth it whena better part out of the gate would do the trick.

Also, DO NOT wire the car wiring to the ABS pig tail. If you must, get a clip from a junk yard to replace any missing connectors. Other wise, you will have to re-splice those wires every time you change the hub, just bad practice.

And yes, that disconnected ABS sensor can cause the trac and ABS system to not work and lights on your dash.

 

Hmm OK a Timken is definitely not in the budget at the moment.

So say I go to a junkyard (LKQ perhaps) and I cut the pigtail off a passenger hub there do I have to solder it? Can I just twist it on and tape it up? Like I said I'm not that good with a soldering iron. This would be on the hub side I'm referring to.

Supposing I can get the pigtail from a junkyard and I get it spliced onto my existing wheel hub then all I need is the male end of the ABS harness to then splice into the car side right? Because I don't believe the hub is actually bad.

Or actually I guess I could go to LKQ or another junkyard and get the hub and ABS wiring harness to splice into the car side. That is an option too.

 

I would not replace a hub with a junk yard hub. Get what ever connectors you need to male it factory like and SOLDER the wires or don't bother doing anything.

 

Getting a salvage hub of unknown mileage is not worth the time or money. Again, it's asking for the same issue as getting a cheap one. And since the hub presses into the knuckle, doubtful you could get it at a u-pull-it type junk yard.

But as for the pig tail, yes, you could get a clip of both pieces from a yard, no issue with that. But as for connecting it, twisting it together and taping it is asking for it to fail later on. Since the wheels turn, the cabling moves with it (so it's under flex). It's in an area highly exposed to elements, tape is completely inadequate and will not properly seal or protect for long term.

When you talk about splicing wires, I will not recommend anything less then soldering. And honestly, this is not a tough thing to solder, probably one of the easiest things. If you cannot solder it find someone who can. End of story.

And for this application, I would highly advise heat shrink tubing.

Let me give you an example. My currently daily driver ('02 Grand Am) has been subject to a lot of "hack" wiring from the previous owner (such as lots of connections spliced to put in a keyless entry and taped). Shortly after I bought the car, I noticed when I open the back driver side door, the dome light would not come on. Fast forward, I traced the wiring for the door switch.... It was spliced and because it was twisted together and taped, the wire corroded (causing the signal from the door switch to fail). When I tugged on the wire, the corrosion was bad enough, it broke at the twist. This was an interior wire, had no movement that I know of, not exposed to harsh elements, a non-soldered, taped connection and it failed.
I fixed it the way I'm suggesting you fix your ABS wire. It's not a guarantee that the splice will last forever, but what it is, it's good advice to repair this situation as best you can and give it the best chance to last for the long haul.

 

OK fair enough makes sense I'll probably just leave it then until Spring now. I can solder somewhat but its not my favorite activity. I always wind up dropping solder all over hell.

If I get a hub side connector only from a junk yard how do I tell which lead connects to which lead out of the hub? Is it color coded in that I would simply match up the colors and solder it on?

Thanks guys and I won't mess with it until I can do it right. My biggest concern was having that traction off in the winter I thought maybe it would pose serious problems, but it looks like it won't.

 

The wires on the hub should be colored. On the car side, the wires are colored, but I believe each wheel has a different color combo (even though the connector itself is the same).

Just keep in mind if you are used to driving with traction control and ABS during the winter, you will not have those features.