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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 12:12 PM
  #1  
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I have an 85 monte with a fresh 383 stroker in it. It runs real well and I am ejoying it just don't know much about what has been done to it. I do have a cam sheet for it but I no nothing about the compression ratio or anything like that. It seems to ping if you walk on it between 2nd and 3rd (3 speed auto trans) It only does it when it is at full operating temp. I have no temp gauge or light on it yet but it does not over heat. It will sometimes run on so I stop it in gear.I run the best gas I can get here in On. Canada. If I run a bottle of lucas octane booster it helps but it is still there. At $15.00 a bottle I would like to get away from this. I backed off the timing a bit and it helped a bit. The motor was suposed to have about 100 km when I bought it and probably a total of about 500 km it now. Just wondering if anyone had any suggestions. It does not fight itself to start or anything and if I drive it right it is really not that bad but it is still there and I don't like it. Any help would be great.
 
Old Nov 9, 2013 | 12:24 PM
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Hi Viking,
What type ignition do you have ? Distributor ? Dual Point ?


The MSD ignition was a no-brainer for this build. This particular 383 will see a lot of street time so we decided to use a billet distributor and wire set with a black cap. To install it into the motor, we attached the distributor gasket to the collar and dropped it in through the top of the manifold.

Check out the below link & always check back to see what our expert member's post on your `prob > Good Luck & keep us updated
 
Old Nov 9, 2013 | 12:28 PM
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by viking
I have an 85 monte with a fresh 383 stroker in it. It runs real well and I am ejoying it just don't know much about what has been done to it. I do have a cam sheet for it but I no nothing about the compression ratio or anything like that. It seems to ping if you walk on it between 2nd and 3rd (3 speed auto trans) It only does it when it is at full operating temp. I have no temp gauge or light on it yet but it does not over heat. It will sometimes run on so I stop it in gear.I run the best gas I can get here in On. Canada. If I run a bottle of lucas octane booster it helps but it is still there. At $15.00 a bottle I would like to get away from this. I backed off the timing a bit and it helped a bit. The motor was suposed to have about 100 km when I bought it and probably a total of about 500 km it now. Just wondering if anyone had any suggestions. It does not fight itself to start or anything and if I drive it right it is really not that bad but it is still there and I don't like it. Any help would be great.
Your probably going to need to run a50/50 mix of racing fuel and street fuel....
What year was the motor originally built? It may need a lead based fuel back then that's how they were built... They don make leadbased fuel....anymore....
Or your going to have to "Detune" the motor..(retime it).. or jet it up to give it even more fuel...If its pinging.... Its running to lean....You may also have to go to a "Larger" CFM carb. What carbs on it now? What jets are in it? Compression can be checked by a compression gauge.... Did the guy you bought it from built it? Or was it built professionally? If it was built professionally contact the company that built it with the numbers off the block, Call and request a build sheet.
 
Old Nov 10, 2013 | 07:29 AM
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It has a a 750 holly on it and it is supposed to be gauged for the motor as for the ingnition I am not sure what is in it. As for being lean if I pull the plugs will that tell me anything?
 
Old Nov 10, 2013 | 07:41 AM
  #6  
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Spark plug reading

Click

Plug Picture chart

Click
Hope it helps > Good Luck
 
Old Nov 10, 2013 | 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by viking
It has a a 750 holly on it and it is supposed to be gauged for the motor as for the ingnition I am not sure what is in it. As for being lean if I pull the plugs will that tell me anything?
You could pull the plugs and check the condition of the plugs... Be sure to check the plug gap also... look for burnt electrode... The plugs also maybe to hot for the tune/jetting...

Pinging leads to burnt valves and melted/broken pistons... Just because the motor doesn't run hot doesn't mean that it wont get damaged overtime with the pinging..(spark knock)...

after checking the plugs I would definately retime the motor to the proper value. You need to get more info for the motor, I'd be concerned about getting the build sheet to get the proper setup specs as far as performance... Like I mentioned before you go thru all that try adding racing fuel and see if the spark knock disappears.

Theres sooooo many variables as to why its spark knocking. To hot plugs, timing, octane of the fuel. Jetting, power valve. theres quite a list of things to check. If, you feel that your not that mechanically inclined/knowledgeable... I would consider getting a professional mechanic that knows what to check and look for to resolve the spark knock.

Since you said its spark knocking during the power band (2nd to 3rd) 4 things come to mind... Octane, Jetting/Power valve and Timing.
 
Old Nov 11, 2013 | 08:44 AM
  #8  
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I think octane is playing a big part as I tried a tank of gas without the octane booster and it is worse. I am going to get in touch with the guy I got the car from and see if he can put me in touch with the builder. I think it was a shop in paris On. Can. Again this is not real bad and you can avoid the ping if you drive it right but that kind of takes the fun out of it lol.
 
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