New user here ! I have been looking around the site and all the info I see has got me off track

The issue at hand is my ac system. Just a few days ago It was working and now nothing at all, compressor does not in-gauge it was serviced by the previous owner last summer.

Back in the day ac was not very complicated ! What I need to know is this...

Can I still test the clutch by jumping a hot wire to the positive side of the battery with out killing the electronics ? So fyi here Iam not going to bleed off any freon into the air I want to make that clear first,I do have access to a recovery system ! Just need to figure out my issues ! Most of the service manuals don't cover true ac repairs do to the EPA laws now

I have noticed that the ac relay is real hot almost to the point that you want to put it down real fast, although its good,I swapped it out with one other.NO BLOWN FUSES. Any ideas ?

Last but not least A diy type guy cant read ac trouble codes with a low end code reader... correct ?

Thanks in advanced Mike

 

Mike
Not sure if they have the ability...

But have your local auto parts store scan it and see what comes up?
usually the AC is one of the easiest systems on this type vehicle to diagnose
but, I wouldnt recommend jumping it....(The compressor) try checking all the plugs for a loose wire, corroded or even broken wire/connection.... besure to chek all the fuses...Panel/and Underhood! its got to be something simple..since it was already working for you!

 

My first suspicion would be low freon. My used to have a slow leak but would last one season, causing my to top it off every spring. Turned out to be a bad hose.

I strongly recommend against bypassing anything to test a component. The lockouts are there for a reason. As stated above, take it to a reputable shop for a diagnosis.

 

mine only will last like 2 or 3 weeks on a charge it couldnt be charged before i replaced the condenser if its low it will not turn the clutch i agree with everyone charge it with UV dye if you suspect a bad leak

 

I got my ac fixed turns out it was the clutch coil. this is how I troubleshot it.

First thing i did was get a new male connector because it was looking sad ! I snapped in the new one into the coil and ran a Ohm test and found it at 0.00 Ohms and no continuity. so with it disconnected from the cars electrical harness I took a ground from the battery to the black wire and a hot to the green wire,It really don't matter at this point it"s just and electromagnet... I get nothing. COIL IS BAD

So off to get parts.. I got a compressor clutch kit and tested it with my volt meter,we were at 6 ohms and had continuity so good to go.so first thing is take the belt off then I drove the passenger side on a ramp turned the tire out and removed the bottom front fender well and the front plastic cover in front of the motor pulled off the 13mm nut and used a gm 5v compressor tool and pulled of the top part of the clutch.

The next step was the pulley and bearing.There is a big snap ring there remove it then you should be able to use two prybars to pop it off,In my case I had to use a air hammer to the back side of the pulley then popped right off'. Now the coil on the v5 compressor it"s also press fit and once more two prybars worked.

Now reverse the order, coil first I used a rubber hammer to start it on, here you have to be careful not to hit the plastic or ceramic,That the front most part of the coil. With a punch inside the coil its metal tapping it on little by little Intel seated.Next the pulley same thing here get it started with a rubber hammer and the I used a block of wood and a mini sledge Intel its seated the don't forget the snap ring.

Try to turn the pulley make sure is nice and free.. If not pull it off and find out why !! In my case good to go! Next the front part of the clutch.I used the gm 5v compressor clutch install tool (most parts stores carry them around 30 dollars,give or take) and pushed it on .I stopped pushing it on at 20 thousands Use a feeler gauge between pulley and the front part of the clutch. I left the nut off for now.

So now I want to test it before put it all back together. Snap in the new plug and A positive and a negative test lead to the new clutch.Hook up the ground and one side of the positive lead and just touch the other side to the wire and it should pull the top part of the clutch in,you will hear a snap as it happens.It worked a few times and i noticed it was not doing it all the time So i put the install tool back on and set the gap between the pulley at 15 thousands and bang works prefect !

15 thousands is close but it don't drag when the clutch is unpowerd.I used a tad of blue lock tight on the nut and snugged it down,then put all the covers on and installed the new plug. that's it for installing the clutch.

I did add about a half pound of 134a to the system and its nice and cold !

Somethings you need to know ! 0.00 Ohms the coil is shorted, That's why my relays got hot as h&$$. The compressor coil should read 2 to 6 ohms a reading below 2 Ohms and a reading over 6 Ohms will indicate a bad compressor coil.Also there is a diode that needs to be checked.. this diode is there to keep voltage spikes off other electrical components like the PCM,ECM ect.Most meters will be able to test them, going to give you a simple answer about as to how because not everyone can read the numbers on a diode ! most meters will use the same setting as continuity put a lead on each end and see if you have a reading if not swap the leads and check the reading..If you do its good if not it's bad... a diode will let power pass one way and not the other.

 

Even though this thread is several months old, just in case someone needs help in the future:

My 98 MC had the exact same issue with AC. No blown fuses.

It turned out to be low freon. A simple charge gave me ice cold air again!!!

 

I wish it was that simple in my case ! A/C is still working real nice.