I found this on an Impala forum, guy just attached a small breather to the PCV nipple. That's a 3rd option.


When I read the info from the one Bonneville write up about the L26 UIM, in theory you "could" run a tub from that nipple on the UIM to you air box (after the filter). The only thing a couple people don't like about not going after the MAF is that it is "unmetered air" going through the system.

There are actually a few options available form what I understand of it, best is finding a way to get air between the MAF and throttle plate. Otherwise, that nipple can be connected any way so long as it has a filter is using un-metered air does not bother you. Personally, I vote for finding a way to use metered air.

FINALLY, after a TON of searching, I found a pick of an L26 in a car it was originally equipped to be on. That nipple connects to the air snorkel/hose after the MAF (circled in yellow), before the TB.

 

As I was laying in bed this morning, I had an off the wall idea about the PCV issue being discussed (but I have not thought it all the way through, so it may or may not work).

There is all this talk about modding the adapter plate to get a PCV connection OR an area I suggested to tap into for the PCV connection OR just put a breather on.

Well, I don't know exactly how much space there is to work with, but here's the thought (it may take some effort to figure out if it's possible).
- Get a section of metal tubing (I would say equal to the PCV connection on the T-body or the nipple on the UIM, which ever is the smaller diameter, roll with that).
- Do some grinding with the Dremel on the T-body, looking at the pic I have below, get it so you can place that metal tubing into the space I have a red line drawn on the below T-body pic (if you are still using an L36 T-body, this might not work, below is an L67).
- Keep in mind, where the tube comes out of the t-body, you COULD bend the tub in a 90 degree angle best facing the nipple on the UIM.
- Once the tube is in place, make sure none of it is sticking out beyond the mating surface of the T-body (if it all can be sunk in a little bit, even better).
- Mix up a bunch of JB Weld (may take multiple fillings) and fill that entir cavity to secure that tubing AND hopefully give it a good seal from any possible vac leaks.
- Once it's all coated and sealed with JB Weld, get a sanding disc (if you have that kit I recommended for cleaning the gasket material off the heads, use the sanding disc from it) and sand the JB Weld smooth and flat. Touch up as needed.

Again, just an off the wall idea I had this morning. But it might help give a more "factory" look to the casual observer.

Check out what I suggested in this and the previous post and see if any of that helps. If it can work, I kinda like this idea myself. I'm certain the JB Weld can be packed in and make things air tight.

 

Thanks for the suggestions Jason
I really want to use the stock PVC port on the TB somehow to get that metered air. Don't want anymore clogged cats running lean or something
I'm still trying to think of another way but there really isn't any easy options lol

 

Some progress was made today before I came to work lol

This is as clean as its going to get :p haha
The tiny specks on top of the pistons are from a little water that splashed on them when I was cleaning the rest of the motor. Still have to get the oil pan off and get new RTV on it





Water pump looks good too


Now I just need to clean the heads, reassemble them, paint some stuff and put the motor all back together

 

looking great frank! you're motivating me to pull my engine apart haha

 

It looks like it's coming along nicely, Frank.

 

Hey Frank, that water pump is the "stamped" steel impeller. Nothing wrong with it, BUT if you EVER need to replace a water pump, go for the one on the right:


It's odd your S3 did not have the one on the right (as I was lead to believe that was standard in the S3). The S2 has the stamped steel.

It's not worth messing with UNLESS you actually have to replace it. The guys on the Bonnie forums found the cooling is slightly BETTER with the other pump.

 

Frank, Looking Good.. Nice Job..

 

BTW - I forgot to say, those engine parts many look AWESOME!! Excellent cleaning job!!

 

Thanks Mitch you should do it

Thanks mike

Thanks Jason
I just did some searching around and that water pump is from the S1 3800 motors? I guess the S3 kept the stamped steel ones. All replacements i see online are the same stamped ones. I'm ok with this one though, looks to be in great shape... Also seems like these guys think the blue felpro WP gasket is better over the paper one? Lol cus that's the one I got

View topic - Jiffy Water Pump replacement.... : PontiacBonnevilleClub.com

It's also weird that my s3 didn't have the alum. LIM gaskets, previous owner probably had them changed to cheap plastic ones anyway I got my alum. felpro ones from Rockauto 2 days ago are they alum or metal gaskets? :p regardless, they look beefy and indestructible compared to the plastic ones

Thanks Jerry, can't wait to drive it already! haha