Replacing wheel hubs
#1
Replacing wheel hubs
Hello,
I intend to replace my hubs today and have the selection of Moog or Driveworks. I'm leaning toward Moog but figured I'd get some opinions from the forum.
I'm replacing the hubs for a couple reasons:
Service traction system alert
Abs light on
Wobble/shake coming from front end that I can feel through the accelerator and steering wheel at roughly 50+ mph.
I've also read around here on the forums that this may be due to bad axles, inner/outer cv joint, & wheel bearings.
If I were to grab axles while I'm already in dealing with the Hubs would this be a foolproof way of eliminating the shake?
On a side note when I had the car aligned last summer the tech said something about the tilt and camber being off in one of my front end wheels (cant remember which). Would this be a suspect for my issue?
Thanks
I intend to replace my hubs today and have the selection of Moog or Driveworks. I'm leaning toward Moog but figured I'd get some opinions from the forum.
I'm replacing the hubs for a couple reasons:
Service traction system alert
Abs light on
Wobble/shake coming from front end that I can feel through the accelerator and steering wheel at roughly 50+ mph.
I've also read around here on the forums that this may be due to bad axles, inner/outer cv joint, & wheel bearings.
If I were to grab axles while I'm already in dealing with the Hubs would this be a foolproof way of eliminating the shake?
On a side note when I had the car aligned last summer the tech said something about the tilt and camber being off in one of my front end wheels (cant remember which). Would this be a suspect for my issue?
Thanks
Last edited by SLaFlame; 05-13-2015 at 11:25 AM. Reason: Additional information
#2
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mentor, Ohio
Posts: 12,156
My experience is axles are rarely a problem, so if not broken, don't mess with it. Hubs, eh, about 100K miles, and they may start to go.
I've been burned by cheapie (usually Chinese) made hubs. I stopped buying that crap (and I put Drive Works in that bucket). You get what you pay for. If you want to run the risk of doing the job right after the hub warranty expires, cheapies (heck I have a friend that had a new cheapie hub fail in a week).
I always recommend Timken for the money. Typically I can plan out my hub replacements (catch them when they are a little bad, not REALLY bad). THat being said, usually $100 shipped (give or take) from RockAuto. Have yet to be disappointed by a Timken hub (and I can't begin to tell you how many I've done for myself or friends/family). Sadly, the local stores no longer stock them.
Never used Moog, but I'm sure Moog wheel hubs are like their other products, and if so, a solid/reliable product. If you can't buy a Timken and are willing to spend for the Moog, do the Moog. If you can get Timken, go Timken!
I've been burned by cheapie (usually Chinese) made hubs. I stopped buying that crap (and I put Drive Works in that bucket). You get what you pay for. If you want to run the risk of doing the job right after the hub warranty expires, cheapies (heck I have a friend that had a new cheapie hub fail in a week).
I always recommend Timken for the money. Typically I can plan out my hub replacements (catch them when they are a little bad, not REALLY bad). THat being said, usually $100 shipped (give or take) from RockAuto. Have yet to be disappointed by a Timken hub (and I can't begin to tell you how many I've done for myself or friends/family). Sadly, the local stores no longer stock them.
Never used Moog, but I'm sure Moog wheel hubs are like their other products, and if so, a solid/reliable product. If you can't buy a Timken and are willing to spend for the Moog, do the Moog. If you can get Timken, go Timken!
#4
As far as hubs go get the best part you can afford, moog are good parts, however, they are like all parts subject to a bad one or two slipping by the quality check person. Moog parts have a relatively low failure rate overall (11%) compared to drive works (almost 38%). It does come down to cost I've had customers that couldn't afford $100 moog and gambled on the $30 drive works and been ok. If you gamble on cheaper don't be upset if it fails later, and warranty does NOT equal quality. It sounds like your hub bearing is the issue, axles don't usually go bad that way they "click" when you are turning. The camber/ caster issue could also be caused by a bad hub bearing having excessive play. Be careful getting the hub out of the knuckle I've seen people hit the axle so hard they damage it and even crack the aluminum trans axle case, rent or barrow a hub puller if you can. Depending on the mileage and shape of the axle you MAY want to replace it while you are there it will take an extra 15 minutes or so depending on frozen or rusted parts. Good luck
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