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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 08:28 AM
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Lightbulb Brake Maintenance

Brake Maintenance
Pat Goss

Not all cars will stop like this Porsche, but one thing I can guarantee you is that all cars will fail to stop if you don't properly maintain your brakes. Now, you should check the brakes on your car at least every twelve thousand miles, or once a year, or whenever there's a change in the feel of the brakes or the noise that the brakes make. See, if they make noise and that noise goes away, check them. If they don't make noise and all of a sudden they do, check the brakes. One of the most important parts of checking the brakes is to check the brake pads. Friction material on brakes is consumable. It wears away just like the tread on your tires. Now a trick way to do this is to use a tire tread depth gauge. It can be held against the surface of the friction material, the plunger is pushed down against the metal, and you have your reading right there. Now the minimum is two thirty-seconds of an inch, but I prefer never to go beyond three-thirty seconds of an inch. That gives you a little leeway.
The other thing that you have to be aware of is that you're always looking for the thinnest portion on the brake pad not the thickest. The thinnest, folks. Now along with the brake check there's always going to be the check of the hardware. Is the hardware rusty? Are any of the pieces broken or missing, or anything like that? Plus, when the brakes are checked, the brakes should be serviced. And that means that you're going to apply something for silencing on the backs of the brake pads. That may be shims, or it may be a chemical, such as we have here. And you're also going to lubricate the moving parts of the brake system using the proper lubricant. There's some for rubber to metal, there's some for metal to metal, and so on. Make sure the proper material is used. Now, this business with brake noise; getting rid of it can be a real problem. But here's something that is brand new. This is NU-LOK Piston Cushion. Okay, so what is it? Well, it is this little circular device that fits into the inside of the hollow piston in your calipers. Now, it's coated with a special material that dampens noise, makes the brakes more effective, and actually does a very good job for a very small amount of money. So it's something that you might want to look for if you have noisy brakes.
 
Old Dec 27, 2010 | 08:30 AM
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Your brake repair maintenance tips are your guide to get your brakes done properly.

Whatever the reasons, you can benefit from checking and maintaining the performance of the vehicle's brakes, tires and other front end parts. Time has proven all the time that a poor vehicle brake maintenance can result to unwanted accidents. And when you add the effect of a bad cold weather, it is important to have the brakes checked regularly. Even a warm weather of summer can adversely affect your brakes since the heat makes your brakes to wear prematurely.
Here are a few brake maintenance tips that you can use right away:
We all know that brakes wears over a period of time and the survival of your brake components depends on such factors like the weather driving conditions and how the driver apply the brakes. Furthermore, the brake fluid is one of the most overlooked component of your brakes and it would not hurt to monitor it every time the vehicle other fluids are checked. So it is a good practice that when you check the engine oil and coolant, make sure to check the brake fluid too. In addition, if you notice that you keep on adding brake fluid in your vehicle over a period of time, make sure to suspect that you have a serious brake problem like a brake fluid leakage. This is noticeable especially if the vehicle starts to have a long braking distance. For insurance, always schedule to have a regular brake fluid flush every other year especially if you are driving a 5 years old or older vehicle.
Furhermore, when you realize that your brake fluid pressure forces the brake caliper pistons against the rotor and when the hydraulic pressure starts getting low because of the lining wear, the braking power is greatly reduced. This is not good for the vehicle and requires the driver's immediate attention so that the brake system can be checked right away.
The brake pad to brake rotor friction stops the brake wheels from turning and any wear on the brake surfaces can result in poor brakes. When detected, sometimes the fix require a simple replacement of the brake pads and in a worst case scenario, it might need the replacement and bleeding of the brake calipers. In essence, you do not want to find out later that you have a poor brake after a serious accident because it will cost you. Also, when you hear a funny noise when you apply the brakes, it sure indicates a worn brake linings. Take note that this scratching noise is build up in the brake system intentionally to warn you of an impending brake failure. This device is there to avoid wearing your brake rotors after the brake pads are worn out.
When servicing your own brakes, expect to have the brake pads, rotors and wheel wear sensors to be replaced often especially if the vehicle is doing a lot of stop and go traffic. This also true if you have ABS brake system and you have the vehicle dash showing "check brake linings" light. When that happens, its about time to inspect your brakes for your own safety.
 
Old Mar 20, 2011 | 07:49 PM
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I know, old thread, but having brake issues/bleeding the air out!

I recently bought new calipers, rotors and pads,, yesterday my mechanic buddy installed them, and when we were bleeding them it didn't seem to get all the air out because the pedal seemed a little spongy, it would go to the floor with little resistance! We bled them probably 10 times with no better results, the car stops ok but it seems that since there are new pads on, the pedal should be more responsive to both of us? I did drive the car about 25 miles this evening with no major issues. It's kinda hard to remember how the pedal was before due to the fact the rotors were badly warped and vibrating for a pretty long time. If anyone can offer up any help that would be great, thanks

couple pics of the powder coated calipers and new slotted/drilled rotors.


 
Old Mar 20, 2011 | 07:53 PM
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WOW Chris, Those look fantastic!!!!

Per your bleeding, not saying your guy doesn't know what he's doing but did he bleed it starting from right rear -> left rear -> right front -> left front??
 
Old Mar 20, 2011 | 08:11 PM
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we did that and then he hooked it up to a Snapon computer that does an automated brake bleed where you follow the steps and bleed, press brake, tighten bleeder and so on, we did that twice and still not much better? I'm taking my car back tomorrow after work and another mechanic is going to check it out, I'm just a little worried driving it, but I drove it tonight and it seemed ok?

Mike, he knows what he is doing, I'm sure of that, but he also said I could have a bad brake booster, but I did what my Haynes said to test it and it seems ok.

on, another note, when he was going to do my PA emission it did throw a code of P0171, bank 1 lean. The mechanic said that could be due to a vacuum issue with the brake booster and giving us the problem with bleedig the brakes, but I don't think it is?

and Thanks Mike. the calipers look great but I'm just a little bummed out not knowing if everything was done correctly?
 
Old Mar 20, 2011 | 08:30 PM
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Once you get it tested you will know for sure. Hopefully it's nothing!
 
Old Mar 20, 2011 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ChibiBlackSheep
Once you get it tested you will know for sure. Hopefully it's nothing!

I'll see what happens tomorrow, Thanks Mike for reading all my babble...
 
Old Mar 20, 2011 | 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by monte carlo 3831
I'll see what happens tomorrow, Thanks Mike for reading all my babble...
i read it all too!!! and now i have a headache... -_-

just kidding tho, haha hope you get it fixed and let us know how it turns out
 
Old Mar 25, 2011 | 05:34 PM
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A note for anyone with a 5th gen z34. If you are changing your rear brake pads the piston does not compress in the same fashion as the front, i.e. c-clamp force. There are two notches on the piston so that you can tun it and depress it in that fashion.

As a side note, the first time I changed the rear pads I was getting a tapping style noise that was clearing my driver's side rear brake. I had to pull the caliper back off and I manually extended and depressed the piston, I suppose it got off its threading or something, no problems with it ever since.
 
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