[align=center][/align][align=center]Below post is for members like me that are still learning about the[/align][align=center]Maintenance on Cars. I keep learning something everyday and I[/align][align=center]thank our members for sharingtheir knowledge.[/align][align=center]
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Basic[/align][align=center]Engine Maintenance [/align][align=center][/align][align=center]Regular tune-ups, rubber replacement and filter changes extend vehicle life [/align][align=center][/align][align=center]We all know that regular tune-ups and engine maintenance are investments that pay off with improved fuel economy, longer engine life and cleaner air. However, many of us procrastinate until the first signs of car trouble—or later. Assuming that all car enthusiasts are capable of checking fluid levels and tire pressure, this story addresses a slightly meatier side of maintenance. We'll show basic upkeep on a throttle-body-injected (TBI) engine. Regardless of the vehicle/engine, check your owner's manual for routine maintenance intervals, and refer to a service manual for more detailed information.
Hoses [/align][align=center][/align][align=center]Unlike some other hoses (e.g., air conditioning), radiator hoses fall into the do-it-yourself-replacement category. Inspect these hoses for chafed areas, softness (which can indicate interior deterioration), hardness (which keeps clamps from sealing) and swells (see Step 2).
[/align][align=center][/align][align=center]When replacing radiator hoses, begin by draining the cooling system, capturing the antifreeze so pets don't drink it and poison themselves.
[/align][align=center][/align][align=center]Refill the radiator and overflow "puke" tank with the recommended mix of antifreeze and water—then "burp" the cooling system according to the service-manual's procedure. Heater hoses can be replaced similarly.
Belts [/align][align=center][/align][align=center]Most later-model vehicles use a serpentine-belt system. A spring-loaded tensioner automatically adjusts the single belt. The drawback is that a broken belt will disable all (or almost all) vehicle accessories. This should be motivation enough to regularly inspect the belt for missing ribs and frayed plies. A belt-routing diagram (see Step 4) is usually included somewhere under the hood.
Air Filter [/align][align=center][/align][align=center]Paper-style air filter elements should be replaced following the owner's manual recommendation—more often in dusty conditions. (Visually inspect the old air filter for dirt and debris.) Simply remove the old element and replace it with the new one, being careful not to drop the lid's wingnuts down the throttle bore or intake in the process if so equipped. Also make sure that the new filter is properly seated in the housing (see Step 6). (Some vehicles have a foam element inside the air-cleaner housing where the valve cover hose attaches to the air cleaner. This element should also be replaced regularly.)
PCV [/align][align=center][/align][align=center]The positive-crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve filters gasses emitted by hot oil before they're recirculated back to the air cleaner. In TBI Chevys, the PCV is a 90-degree piece that connects the air-cleaner return hose to the valve cover (see Step 7).
EGR [/align][align=center][/align][align=center][b]The exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) va

 

How long does a o2 sensornomaly last?

 

I heard that you should replace them between 60-75k miles.

I've seen them go out at 45-50k miles.

I've had other last over 100k miles.

 

Hoses also maily deteriorate from the inside out. Check especially around the clamps to find problems.

 

Guys
The O2 sensor and the cat's life depends on a few things
I know there are some of you that will laugh at this but....

What shortens the life of them depends on how the engine is performing
if you change things to make your engine run rich or lean this will effect the life of them.
The O2 sensor is telling the engine what to change to help the cat do its job.
In older cars the O2 sensor is not as sensative as the newer ones. Which means it takes longer for a problem to show up,
which in turns will have an effect of not only shorting the life of the cat but also changes your mileage. I will have to dig out
an article that came out late last year about this. When I find it I will be more then glad to post it. It goes into the details a lot
better then I do.

 

[align=center]Preventive Maintenance[/align][align=center]The following services are recommended at the listed times or mileages. These recommendations are only for preventive maintence to avoid unexpected breakdowns and extend the life of your car. Vehicle maintenance schedules differ from vehicle to vehicle, so it is always best to consult your owner's manual.[/align][align=center]Oil / Lube / Filter
3 months or 3,000 miles
Tire Rotation
6,000 miles
Air Conditioning
Check every spring
Radiator
Flush every fall
Valves
Adjust as per owner's manual
Battery Service
Yearly or as needed
Brake System Or Clutch Flush
Yearly or as needed
Fuel Filter
Yearly or as needed
Whole Car Diagnosis
Yearly and prior to purchase
Transmission Service
2 years or 24,000 miles
Power Steering Flush
2 years or 24,000 miles
EGR Service
2 years or 24,000 miles
Computer Code Check
After M-I-L illuminates
Pack Wheel Bearings
2 years or 24,000 miles
Induction System Cleaning
2 years or 30,000 miles or as needed
Throttle Plate Service
2 years or 30,000 miles or as needed
Oxygen Sensor
Per owner's manual or as needed
Radiator & Heater Hoses
4 years or 60,000 miles
Drive Belts
4 years or 60,000 miles
Timing Belt
60,000 miles or per owner's manual
Differential Fluid Service
5 years or 50,000 miles [/align]

 

Belts & Hoses
Pat Goss & Space : )
Some of the most important parts under the hood are made of rubber, the belts and the hoses. Now, because they're made of rubber and other things, they do have a finite life and they do need to be replaced on a regular basis. That regular basis is every four years or 60,000 miles. And, in the meantime, you should be checking them regularly, at least once a year.
Now before you can really determine anything about a belt, you have to understand how they're made up. They're made of layers. See here we have one that we've taken apart. We have an outer layer. Then underneath that we have an actual belt-like substance, just like the belt around the outside of a tire. It forms part of our drive belt. And this fabric, over a period of time, breaks down. It loses its strength. And when it does, the belt can fail at any time.
Now here's where the problem comes in. You can't see that reinforcing material. What you can do is you can look at the belt. If it's obviously all torn up like this one, no question. This belt is bad. Anybody could see that. But maybe it isn't quite that far gone. Well, if we bend it backwards a little bit, we see a whole bunch of cracks in it.
But now, here's the dilemma. If your belt looks perfect, then it might be fine. But if it's been on the car four years or 60,000 miles, it needs to be replaced because we can't see the reinforcing fabric inside, and it could be shot. Oh, by the way, belt dressing, okay on the old-fashioned V belts, but don't use it on newer serpentine belts because it can make a mess like you've never seen.
All right, hoses. Hoses are made up the same way. They have layers, again, have fabric and rubber. The only thing you can see is the rubber on the outside. The fabric is what goes bad. The fabric fails, the hose explodes, and you have an overheated car, and it can do a lot of damage.
Now if you were to look at this hose, up here it looks pretty good. But we get down to the other end of it and we see that the fabric has completely deteriorated, and this hose literally exploded and all of the coolant came out of the car. Four years, 60,000 miles, that's when you replace belts and hoses, unless they fail before that.
Now, one other thing. Lots of people like to have everything looking great under the hood of the car, and one way to do that, spray things with silicone. It makes hoses look wonderful. It makes all the black paint look wonderful. Don't do it! The silicone in the container will go through the air filter, out through the exhaust on the car, contaminate the oxygen sensors, and you buy new sensors, many times quite expensive.

 

[align=center]Transmission Dyno ?[/align][align=center][/align]We've all heard of engine and chassis dynos - but a trans dyno; huh, what's that? Well - don't be ashamed - it's not unusual to have never heard of a trans dyno! These things are very thin on the ground - as a matter of fact, this unit (belonging to Rowell and Searle Automatic Transmission) .
First of all, what is a trans dyno?
A trans dyno is - as the name implies - a dynamometer specifically developed for automatic transmissions. Here's how they work:



[/align]First of all, a conventional piston engine (in this case, a Holden 'red' six hidden behind the green mesh screen) is used as the controlled power source. The test automatic transmission - complete with its torque converter - is then linked to the back of the motor using a heavy gauge adapter drive plate. These adapter plates often have an array of bolt holes in them so that they match the bell housings of numerous different transmissions. Heavy-duty metal clamps - like in these photos - can also be used to add strength.



[/align]Heading out from the output end of the transmission, a cut-to-length tailshaft (or an axially flexible shaft as seen here) takes drive into an electric retarder unit. These work just like the retarder on an eddy current chassis dyno. Put simply, the retarder is used to "brake" the tailshaft and increase load through the driveline. An in-built pump (complete with its own filter) circulates the essential transmission fluid.
That's rear wheel drive transmissions - but what about FWD or constant 4WD tranaxles? These too can be installed using another separate retarder unit that couples onto the transmission's second parallel output shaft (ie you need to "brake" two driveshafts instead of one). Note that this hardware has not yet been fitted to this particular dyno. The majority of all wheel-drive transmissions, on the other hand, can tested by simply hooking up the rear tailshaft into the single retarder unit, and letting the front-drive section of the trans "free-wheel".



[/align]The control system for each type of trans dyno will vary slightly from one example to another. However, this Australian-made custom unit uses a carburetted piston engine as its power source, so - of course - it's got controls for ignition, choke and throttle and some bare-bones gauges for water temperature, oil pressure and the like. The other half of the control unit is linked to the electronic retarder. This can be switched entirely on or off, or progressively controlled to increase the load through the driveline.
What can a trans dyno be used for?



[/align][b]Now a trans dyno won't give you a power and torque reading like an engine or chassis dyno - what it does give is the ability to test transmission operation. Without a doubt, the primary use of a trans dyno is for making diagnoses and pre-delivery checks.[/b

 

What do I need to do and where will it be located to adjust my carb. so it's not running so lean? 1986 Monte Carlo SS, 305, Quadrajet.

 

My wife's -99 Silverado sportside has 177,000mi on it now, and the truck is all original, except for 2 brake jobs and 3 sets of tires (Michelins). Never replaced anything else. Mobil 1 EP every 12,000mi, filter and tire rotations every 6,000mi, basic maintance and good gas is the key.
Wayne
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2319272