Hubs are about $60 each. There is a door chime interface your supposed buy to install aftermarket sterio withkut issues.

 

not an after market unit.. oem .. ?? seems the radio does work she said they didnt hook up the speakers right ,,,

 

If it's an original radio, assuming no one cut any factory connectors, it's plug-n-play. You can't hook the speakers up wrong (unless you are using a radio for an incompatible vehicle, as GM factory radios for this year range had one line of radios for trucks and another for cars, yet the looked the same, had the same plug, but different wiring).
GM routed the door chime through the radio (so with a factory radio, the chime comes from your stereo speakers, but on an aftermarket radio, you either go without the chime or have to rig up an independent chime).

As for the cluster lights, if the brake light is on, should mean you have low brake fluid or an e-brake set. If the fluid is not low and the e-brake is not set, I believe then you have either a level switch problem, faulty switch on the e-brake pedal or a wiring problem.
The trac Light usually goes on with an ABS light. If the ABS light is on, then you have an ABS code (requires a scan tool able to read the ABS computer to retrieve). Common cause is normally a wheel hub or broken wire (which hubs are on your list of things to fix).

As for the fuel gauge, the fact it moves says it's getting data. It might be a faulty stepper motor in the cluster or a problem with the fuel level sending unit in the tank.

Best course of action for read outs on the cluster you don't trust, get a scan tool that can plug in under the dash and display the sensor reads and see how it compares to the rest of the cluster data.

You really have a lot going on to try and assist. As I mentioned, since your goal is to sell the Monte, you may be better off just selling as-is and list what you know about it. There are people handy willing to take a good deal on a fixer-upper (saves you the time and money of fixing it yourself). Just a thought.

 

well, she has the car at her house and i ran over some of this with her so she was poking around under the hood examining the wire harness and now there are no turn signals.. the gauges are all acting spastic again.
she pulled the dash and door panels off to examine the connections on the stereo and all is in tact.. there is no reason why the sound should not work.. even checked the fuse all good .. the amp had been disconnected so she popped that back in and still had nothing.. she is leaning towards some major short somewhere... but has no idea where to begin with a light tester said this can take a long time to figure out.. would be helpful if someone has a clue as to where to begin with looking for a short... any known issues of finding a short.. was think if she goes to the junk yard and clips a section of harness to replace a section may be the easiest way to resolve this issue.. said there is a short somewhere has to be to affect so many different areas.. never had to deal with such a mass of issues with things not working or draining a system..
question: this Map sensor.. can this cause all these errors if the map isnt working right ,, I mean the chimes you cant hear them any more the radio you cant hear that she touched a couple harnesses yesterday and now the turn signals arent working all the warning lights and gauges not registering properly.. or could it be the instrument panel that has gone bad?
she is frustrated and said she can replace the thermostat and the oxygen sensors but with all the other off and on problems electrically.. what is the point the car may never be right again until we get past the electronic issues.. any help plz thanks EM

 

i think she is leaning towards that as well.. fix what we can and try to find a voc tech student who needs a project car for a grand.. this car is getting to be nerve wracking like it is possessed or something.. LOL

 

I personally hate electrical issues. Not to mention, for all you know these issues were induced by the previous owner doing something off the wall. I don't have any way to guide you on tracing those down.

The MAP sensor is not going to stop the radio from working. But if you have a ground circuit common to all these items and it's messed up, that could be the source. It could even be a wire that was spliced at some point in the car's life and the splice if bad.

I only say this because your goal is to fix the car to off load it, cut your losses. Even though you have a friend assisting for free, who knows how much time it will take to untangle this mess only to try and get rid of it, plus you still have parts to replace.
Even though at it's currently mileage, if the body and mechanics are sound, it could look at another 50K-100K miles (again, that is heavily dependent on the condition of many variables). Even if it is good for that many more miles, many people are going to look at it as a car nearing "end of life".

I think you said it's got 207,000 miles? It was not that long ago I sold my '94 Grand Am with 215,000 miles. Other then a little suspension work, the mechanics and electrical of that car were tip top. I knew the mechanics would keep going, but the body was getting pretty bad. I'll be honest, I had trouble trying to sell it for anything over $700 just because of the mileage (I got a lot of low offers and told people at their offer, I'll drive it to the junk yard and scrape it myself). I finally got an offer that was reasonable and rolled with it.

That is a car I had a 10 year history with and ran GREAT! No outstanding issues (only light suspension fixes needed and just body issues).

Sorry for being long winded and I'm sure it's not easy to do, but give a lot of thought to if the effort to trace these problems down and replace the parts that need replaced is worth it. Over the year's I've usually been the advocate of "fix it", but this one, this situation may not be worth it.