206,00 miles.. a new tranny, 2 years ago, battery, radiator, tires, harmonic balancer. and some other things i can not recall :
anyway outside of possible head gasket leaking.. not sure but can pretty much presume that there is as there are small bubbles in the reservoir.
when i bought it the guy never told me that when you take the key out of the ignition the door chime will chime until the battery dies it took me weeks to find out why the battery ended up dead and only when i had someone replace the radio and they wired it wrong so it didnt work did i realize the door chimed when i closed the door as i walked away from the car ... so problem revealed anyone know why the door chime keeps going after we turn car off and walk away and find it dead in the morning .. lol

next these are the codes P0107 P 0128 P0420 P0420 trac light is on all the time ,,which she told me is the wheel hub sensors need replacing ,, so that is a given i guess also one of those codes means I need the oxygen sensors replaced,, along with the manifold absolute pressure sensor so we will work on getting these pasts over the next few months unless someone thinks that there is a by pass on any of this .. i mean no point in doing something if it can be avoided ..

then there is a problem with fuel gauge not working until almost empty then it registers when the low fuel light comes on all the rest of the time it says full tank never moves until low fuel light comes on then the full gauge read almost empty... a friend of mine posted on here before she was doing the work for me ...when i was pregnant and they gave me the log in info to post my own and see where i go from here so any one have any answers to getting this resolved? thanks EM

 

Id check the cat first. Bad cats will tend to mess with o2 sensors. As to thrac light, check your wheel bearings. Wheel sensors, bearings and hub are one unit. Would guess ignition switch or door latch bad on the door chime. Good luck

 

Here is a link to the OBD II codes and what exactly they mean

https://montecarloforum.com/forum/ge...de-list-17144/

The abs is more than likely the abs wheel speed sensor. Very cheap on E bay problem is that it is usually the wires that are brittle so replace as much as you can.

The door chime after key out of ignition is a strange one to me, never heard of that happening before.

Bubbles in the rad fluid could be a sign of a bad head gasket, also check your oil to ensure its not getting down to the pan, as this would be very bad. Also check your hoses for leaks

 

It's late and I don't have a chance to speak to all the issues.

The door chime makes me think the car believes the key is still in the ignition. It might be a ignition cylinder causing the issue.

Bad cats typically cause poor performance and or stalling. If you suspect a bad cat, it's a clogged cat. After running the car a while, peak under it and see if the cat is glowing red. If it is, that confirms the cat.
These O2 sensors also do wear out (changing around 100,000 is typically recommended).

DON'T GET A CHEAP HUB! Get a cheap hub and odds are high you'll be down this road again. Timken hubs are middle of the road cost and so far ALWAYS good to me.

Bubbled can also be an air pocket resulting in a cooling system needing bled. Head gaskets tend to cause white clouds of steam out the exhaust.

If the oil is "milky" on the oil cap, the LIM gaskets may have failed, allowing coolant to dump into the oil.

 

the door chime is probably something do to the man who sold it to me never told me I need a dummy key to put in the ignition to prevent it from killing the battery.. the ignition needs to be replaced so i can use a key in it and take it out with out that happening.. but i am not sure that it is the ignition or rather I was told it may be a short in the harness as the chevy made cars have a known issue with the harness clusters around the battery tray being corroded and causing shorts.. anyone else want to confirm this as a fact? thanks EM

 

thanks for the heads up on the hub i am going to sell it so i am looking to remove most of the warning lights and sensor issues but as for long term it has 207,000 miles no one is going to think the car has a long time left in it with those miles.. as for the bubbles.. there is no muddy oil or water there my friend checked that out but is concerned about the bubbles.. and a head gasket issue but so far there is no mixing going on.. gonna try bars leak or something on those lines to stop up the seeping any suggestions she is not keen on using chemicals and would rather not but I dont have the money to throw in here to sell it just trying to do what is right before i sell it .

 

i will ask her to bleed it if she didnt already and that failed to resolve.. i think she said she did and we are leaning towards an additive like bars stop leak .. or something .. she isnt big on chemical or additives so if anyone has a suggestion as to what may work with a small leak in gasket .. appreciate it .. thanks EM

 

I understand being on limited funds to address problems. But first, DON'T USE BARS LEAK! By nature, that product attempts to solve a pin hole leak by clogging it. You run a risk of that product causing clogs in other parts of the system.

And if there is truly a head gasket problem, no "fix in a bottle" is going to resolve that.

Now, your codes.... I had a chance to take a QUICK look up at them. There of course is a diagnostic chart for all of them, it looks like they boil down as follows:
P0128 - Looks like it may be a simple problem with a thermostat not properly working (and if it's been a long time since it was changed, might not be a bad idea). Could also be an issue with a temp sensor or wiring. My guess , t-stat.
P0107 - Possible MAP sensor issue. I would also look at potential vacuum leaks.
P0420 - Last night I did not look at the code list, but this one is possibly a catalytic converter. It's also a known issue that non-OEM cats can sometimes throw this code because they are not meeting expectations of the PCM (for lack of a better explanation, there is nothing wrong but the PCM thinks there is because it's not meeting OEM specs). This can also be a bad O2 sensor. If the cat is truly bad, it is normally coupled with performance issues (such as problems getting up a hill), the cat getting bright/cherry red while the car is running to name a couple. If there are no issues like that, it might be a rear O2 sensor (which the O2 sensors have a life of about 70-100K miles).

As for the car having high miles, if you are looking to sell it, you may save yourself trouble by listing it on Craigslist as a handy man special, be up front and list what you know about it. Depending on the condition of your Monte (outside the obvious) it may be easier then putting more time and money into it. Just a thought.

As for being towards end of life, yeah, 200,000 miles is about that. Granted, I just saw an '01 Monte with 241,000 on it. And my old '94 Grand Am I sold with 214,000 on it (and the drive train ran perfect, but the suspension was worn and the body was rotting).

Best of luck. I hope it helps.

 

super she had suggested getting a fial safe for 11.00 to address the thermostat which we stopped when i had the baby.. so we are now addressing the issue so i will let her go ahead on the thermostat. the cat is not glowing.. so i dont know who did what i bought the car from a dishonest person and i dont know what he did to it before me, but i got it at 185,000 miles and 3 months later had to replace the transmission. hard lesson learned I dont recall if she erased the codes when she was working on it but she just did and there are no more codes coming out on it and it has been restarted 5 times and driven mind you she replaced the harmonic balancer about 18 months ago and for the most part the car has been sitting since the baby as I had to get another more safe car to drive with the baby so could replacing that have helped any of these codes? just curious i dont want to ask her to do too much she is doing it free of charge but she wants to help out so what ever needs to be she is willing to help if she can
thanks for all the help EM.

 

the instrument cluster and all those warning light what does really work and what doesnt .. i had a radio replaced since then nothing is working right can it be the instrument cluster gone bad or does the radio wiring have anything to do with the ignition and door chimes? i dont triust the guy who did the radio many things are goofy since then and the radio never did work.. so the fuel gauge never worked the temp light i am starting to wonder about? the trac light and warning is always on she checked the brakes driver side only and there was nothing wrong with any of it.

she said it all appears to be fine and in tact other than possibly bleeding the system of maybe having air in the lines and could be the emergency brake system setting off the warning light? she suggested if none of that resolves the trac light to replace the front hub bearing and sensors.. for about 30 a piece.. does this sound about right? the cel seems to work but there are so many warning light and the fuel gauge only reads when the car hits the empty warning lamp.. this car is a joke.. i dont know who did what to it and she told me that there is an issue with corrosion near the battery holder and a cluster of wires that run under it is this a possibility as well?