Winter Project 1: Battery Relocation
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 42
From: Barrie Ontario Canada
Just for your info..
When I put my battery in the trunk, I used a battery box used for a BOAT, vent tubes already there, and lag bolted it to the trunk floor, with self tapping lag bolts (depressions were already there, in the box bottom), and reliefs in the sides to run the cables thru.
Then I used a top mount battery, (easier to boost if needed..OTHER cars) and ran both the pos and neg cables back to the starter and engine block, using arc welding cable, with no circuit breaker, ..no problems..
There always is a voltage drop when cranking...think of using an extension cord on a air compressor for instance..the smaller the cable, the mORE drop in voltage, the compressor wont start, if using a small extension cord, but will trip the breaker. therefore using the biggest cable you can, is an advantage, if you have a weaker battery.
my suggestions..
make sure your battery is good
run a ground strap from your engine to a good ground on the body
if you don't want to run another cable
get rid of the circuit breaker
just suggestions.. I believe in the K.I.S.S principle...good luck.
When I put my battery in the trunk, I used a battery box used for a BOAT, vent tubes already there, and lag bolted it to the trunk floor, with self tapping lag bolts (depressions were already there, in the box bottom), and reliefs in the sides to run the cables thru.
Then I used a top mount battery, (easier to boost if needed..OTHER cars) and ran both the pos and neg cables back to the starter and engine block, using arc welding cable, with no circuit breaker, ..no problems..
There always is a voltage drop when cranking...think of using an extension cord on a air compressor for instance..the smaller the cable, the mORE drop in voltage, the compressor wont start, if using a small extension cord, but will trip the breaker. therefore using the biggest cable you can, is an advantage, if you have a weaker battery.
my suggestions..
make sure your battery is good
run a ground strap from your engine to a good ground on the body
if you don't want to run another cable
get rid of the circuit breaker
just suggestions.. I believe in the K.I.S.S principle...good luck.
Thread Starter
|
Monte Of The Month -- June 2012
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,026
From: Iowa
Just for your info..
When I put my battery in the trunk, I used a battery box used for a BOAT, vent tubes already there, and lag bolted it to the trunk floor, with self tapping lag bolts (depressions were already there, in the box bottom), and reliefs in the sides to run the cables thru.
Then I used a top mount battery, (easier to boost if needed..OTHER cars) and ran both the pos and neg cables back to the starter and engine block, using arc welding cable, with no circuit breaker, ..no problems..
There always is a voltage drop when cranking...think of using an extension cord on a air compressor for instance..the smaller the cable, the mORE drop in voltage, the compressor wont start, if using a small extension cord, but will trip the breaker. therefore using the biggest cable you can, is an advantage, if you have a weaker battery.
my suggestions..
make sure your battery is good
run a ground strap from your engine to a good ground on the body
if you don't want to run another cable
get rid of the circuit breaker
just suggestions.. I believe in the K.I.S.S principle...good luck.
When I put my battery in the trunk, I used a battery box used for a BOAT, vent tubes already there, and lag bolted it to the trunk floor, with self tapping lag bolts (depressions were already there, in the box bottom), and reliefs in the sides to run the cables thru.
Then I used a top mount battery, (easier to boost if needed..OTHER cars) and ran both the pos and neg cables back to the starter and engine block, using arc welding cable, with no circuit breaker, ..no problems..
There always is a voltage drop when cranking...think of using an extension cord on a air compressor for instance..the smaller the cable, the mORE drop in voltage, the compressor wont start, if using a small extension cord, but will trip the breaker. therefore using the biggest cable you can, is an advantage, if you have a weaker battery.
my suggestions..
make sure your battery is good
run a ground strap from your engine to a good ground on the body
if you don't want to run another cable
get rid of the circuit breaker
just suggestions.. I believe in the K.I.S.S principle...good luck.
I ran the car all day for errands with no problems, so that's good.
I'm still going to do some voltage drop tests and see what kind of voltages I'm getting around different places on the circuit. I found a nice website containing great info on voltage drop tests :
Voltage Drop Testing
Does anyone know the best way to disable the car from starting, but still allowing me to crank it?
Monte Of The Month -- August 2007
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 5,231
Just curious, what's keeping the battery from moving around in the box?
Here's my remote battery install:
It's actually a 2nd battery. I'm not a believer in capacitors. And the 2nd pic is old, but close.
Here's my remote battery install:
It's actually a 2nd battery. I'm not a believer in capacitors. And the 2nd pic is old, but close.
Thread Starter
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Monte Of The Month -- June 2012
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,026
From: Iowa
Should get an updated pic of this since its all wired in! Still need to fasten the box to the trunk though.
Monte Of The Month -- August 2012
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,074
From: Seattle
There's some good suggestions in this thread, but I would keep the circuit breaker. It is cheap insurance and could save you a lot of grief in the future should your positive cable ever short out. What if (Heaven forbid) you get in an accident and the body of the car pinches the cable? Without a circuit breaker to create an open the cable will continue to heat and could possibly start a fire...
Monte Of The Month - February 2010
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 11,981
From: Pittsburgh, PA
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