Originally Posted by bumpin96monte

I'm confused what you mean by this. If horsepower goes up, then wheel horsepower would go up proportionately. They measure the exact same thing from two different points in the system (HP being measured at the crankshaft without a drivetrain, WHP being measured at the tires or hubs).




You already have a MAF sensor, why would you want to change it? If you believe you have modded your car so much that you believe you are outflowing it, then go with a larger GM unit. Look at the 3800 guys that heavily mod; they upgrade from the stock MAF in the TB to an external 85mm stock GM unit off an LS6/LS2. Also, you wouldn't really want to have an aftermarket modified one because your factory pcm is tuned to your stock MAF. If you get one that is skewed (either by being a different size, or by having a different design)- then you should technically re-tune the pcm.



You do know that intake air temperature really has virtually nothing to do with engine coolant temperatures right? Also, if your LS engine is running significantly over the thermostat opening and fan turn on temperatures, maybe something is wrong with your engine?

Honestly, I wouldn't be that worried about plastic pipe over aluminum. Sure the aluminum heat soaks more, and allows more heat transfer to the inlet air, but at the rate air moves through that tube, and how little surface area there is- I'd bet intake air temperatures aren't that much drastically lower with plastic tube. You really need to focus on only sucking in cold air into the filter- that has a far greater effect than heat picked up travelling through the piping.



It has to sit closer to the engine because the filter is a good bit longer. Thats not really considered a "short ram" though- thats typically a hot air intake where the filter is either placed directly on the throttle body, or close to it without any heat shielding. I'd bet the intake air temps with that cold air box above are far below the K&N intake. I just installed the K&N on my 07 GXP last weekend (got it cheap, used on the forums)- and there are plenty of places for engine bay air to leak around the heat shield.



Does your friend have any hard proof such as before/after dyno charts or track times? I've never seen a car gain horsepower just by switching the MAF sensor out. Anything you do to alter your factory MAF sensor is going to goof with your factory tune. Its off enough with the factory MAF sensor (hence part of the reason why people pick up more power from tuning their car with no other mods)- but altering your MAF makes that even worse.



You already have a MAF. From what it sounds like, you're talking about an IAT relocation. The MAF sensor itself does not measure temperature at all- it measures airflow. The intake air temperature sensor measures the temperature- and I have seen people use external IAT sensors using a breakout plug on the MAF- is that what you're talking about?



If you want to trick it to read way colder- you can just plug in a resistor in place of the IAT- you can tell the car its always -20* air (or whatever value you want). This will skew fueling, and add timing, until the car realizes its running rich and compensates, and starts knocking due to the actual intake air temperature being 100* hotter than your sensor reads. This is how those ebay "chips" work- its garbage.



Why would you want more fuel? The car is setup to run at a certain A/F ratio in normal driving (around 14.7:1 which is ideal) and some lower A/F ratio in power enrichment mode (say 12:1 or whatever it is). Why would you want to run richer than that? If you don't have any extra air going in, richening the mixture significantly more will bring power down and waste extra gas. If you really want the A/F ratio changed in PE mode- then you need to find someone with a tuner, and change it to the value you think it should have- that will permanently fix it; although personally, I'd feel pretty confident that GM's engineers probably picked a pretty correct value from the factory.



This sounds like an advertisement. How does a new MAF, or an IAT spoof/chip, or even an IAT relocation change the air flow at all? How much air your engine sucks in is going to be the same with any of those 3 mods- heck you could take off everything in front of the throttle body, and it would still suck about the same amount of air, and flow about the same amount of fuel- you need to do actual engine mods to change that, not electronic gimmicks.



As far as I understood- they will be selling them normally on the site as well, just at a much higher price. I believe group buy price is about $650, and regular price in production will be just under $1000.



A "cold" plug refers to the heat range of the plug- that is its ability to dissapate heat from the tip. You want the tip of the plug to run at a certain temperature- too cold, and deposits build up on the tip, too hot- and the tip can melt (or if its running very hot, it can be a source of detonation). The more power you make, the more heat is generated, the colder a plug you need to get to. It sounds to me like your car is pretty much stock, so stock heat range plugs are fine. If you do a lot of engine mods, then you can start looking into a cooler plug.



Better flow inside. It was used on the 400hp corvette. Our factory intake manifold is by far the worst flowing out there of any LS intake because of that neck down just before the TB.



I really don't see the point- what temperature is that thermostat? Too cold, and the engine is going to be a bare to drive in cold weather. I don't see it making enough extra power to be worth it.



lol, I've never heard anyone upgrade from factory manifolds because they're rusty. Cast iron is bound to rust if unsealed, there isn't anything you can do about that. They will never rust through. If you were really just worried about the rust, you could always take them off, have them sandblasted and then coated in a high temp ceramic header coating like jet hot or something.



I really don't see it being that big of a deal- have you ever had problems with your car overheating? These cars were built to operate in all of the extremes of North America- the thing should drive just as well at -20 in Nebraska as it does in +120 in Arizona. The key is that you need airflow through the radiator to keep the car running properly. At a drag strip, or road course- you're going to have the airflow to keep the car at normal operating temperature. Where you have to be careful is on a dyno- you don't want to be doing multiple WOT runs with no airflow through the radiator. That is why every dyno shop I've been to has a big fan to put in front of the car to simulate the airflow through the radiator that normal driving has. Add this to the fans on the car already- and you should have no problem on a dyno with overheating.

If you're really that worried about overheating- then you really need to look into upgrading the size of your heat exchanger/radiator. Just doing little mods like a thermostat or custom fan programmming isn't going to help keep the engine from overheating if the radiator cannot get rid of the heat fast enough. IMO its a waste of money though.

Originally Posted by ChibiBlackSheep

If you are getting all of those mods, please get yourself a proper CAI.

You are going to want the extra air that it can provide to take use for all of the other mods you are saving for.