My monte is dead :(
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 12,601
From: Mentor, Ohio
But, I agree, if you have an itch to switch over, now is the time to do it, you can flush the heater core and radiator OUT of the car.
I use a lot of Harbor Freight tools, some of them are really awesome.... But those HF torque wrenches go on sale for like $15 often, but a Craftman is much higher cost. Sometimes it might be worth wondering why the cost difference. Just my opinion.....
Monte Of The Month -- August 2014
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 25,145
From: Southeast PA
Personally I think the HF ones are fine for a project like this, they just probably wont' be so accurate afterwards 
They legally have to sell them within a margin of correctness. It won't keep that margin very well, but right when you get them should be fine.
I also have craftsman ones though.
They legally have to sell them within a margin of correctness. It won't keep that margin very well, but right when you get them should be fine.
I also have craftsman ones though.
Monte Of The Month -- July 2010
Monte Of The Month -- July 2013
IT HERTZ
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,930
From: West Coast !!
yea I just did mine because if I was going to switch it was the time to do it. The orange worked fine I just find that the green does not gel up on the thermostat or the coolant sensor as much and overall was cleaner . It had nothing to do with the lim I had changed that year 1 of owning my car . I do have to say that I was surprised how much gunk there was in the radiator and the heater core. When we blew out the orange after 10 years of running it.
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 12,601
From: Mentor, Ohio
I don't even own a torque wrench, I have to borrow when I need one (I did not want to waste room with an HF torque wrench that I would question the few times I use one).
Monte Of The Month -- August 2012
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,074
From: Seattle
If you plan on doing your own maintanence imo it would be worth getting a good quality torque wrench. Craftsman makes a reliable click type if that's the style you prefer. You can feel the handle 'give' and the click is very audible when set torque is reached. There's really no need to get both a 3/8" & 1/2" drive though. You can use an adapter on a 1/2" drive for your 3/8" drive sockets. The only time you have to worry about it affecting your torque readings is if you use an extension more than 3" in length. If you prefer a digital have a look at the Brownline. I bought one a few months ago and it is spot on with the SnapOn I have (that gets sent in once a year for calibration). If this is just a one time shot I'd just rent a good torque wrench for the job. Just make sure it has been recently calibrated.
ceramic coat those exhaust manifolds and then you can get that ugly cover off and cut allot of heat mine were sand blasted and done in black for 15$ at a local powder coat shop
we took the cover off after we say how it looked and i just shot mine with some 1100 VHT engine paint to add some color and to make it easier to spot leaks
we took the cover off after we say how it looked and i just shot mine with some 1100 VHT engine paint to add some color and to make it easier to spot leaks
i really dont know any shops around that do powdercoating, i might just spray them with some high heat paint lol, it might not last but at least they'll look good for a little bit lol 
i am going to be painting other stuff though
it shouldent but i would replace the spark plugs and the lim and uim to make sure there wouldent be a surprise when starting the engine. but i hope you will be happy i am glad that you were able to get a engine for it
oh i forgot to mention when you post i posted at the same time sorry it looks good from before asnd after picks
oh i forgot to mention when you post i posted at the same time sorry it looks good from before asnd after picks
It's personal preference what coolant you wish to run, but Dex is not a problem so long as it is flushed at a regular interval. People blame it on the LIM gasket failures and that is just a load of crap (the LIM gaskets fail because nylon was a crappy material).
But, I agree, if you have an itch to switch over, now is the time to do it, you can flush the heater core and radiator OUT of the car.
The HF torque wrenches that claim to "click" when torqued are tough to hear AND feel the click (easy to incorrectly torque). I've known one guy who over torqued a bolt because he never detected the "click". I know a couple others that say they torqued something with an HF torque wrench and then used a known good Craftsman or Snap-On, set to the same torque and found the bolts were NOT torqued properly with the HF torque wrench.
I use a lot of Harbor Freight tools, some of them are really awesome.... But those HF torque wrenches go on sale for like $15 often, but a Craftman is much higher cost. Sometimes it might be worth wondering why the cost difference. Just my opinion.....
But, I agree, if you have an itch to switch over, now is the time to do it, you can flush the heater core and radiator OUT of the car.
The HF torque wrenches that claim to "click" when torqued are tough to hear AND feel the click (easy to incorrectly torque). I've known one guy who over torqued a bolt because he never detected the "click". I know a couple others that say they torqued something with an HF torque wrench and then used a known good Craftsman or Snap-On, set to the same torque and found the bolts were NOT torqued properly with the HF torque wrench.
I use a lot of Harbor Freight tools, some of them are really awesome.... But those HF torque wrenches go on sale for like $15 often, but a Craftman is much higher cost. Sometimes it might be worth wondering why the cost difference. Just my opinion.....
didnt get a chance to get the hoist today either 
i did manage to get some alum. valve covers though 
they came out pretty easy Personally I think the HF ones are fine for a project like this, they just probably wont' be so accurate afterwards
They legally have to sell them within a margin of correctness. It won't keep that margin very well, but right when you get them should be fine.
I also have craftsman ones though.
They legally have to sell them within a margin of correctness. It won't keep that margin very well, but right when you get them should be fine.
I also have craftsman ones though.
yea I just did mine because if I was going to switch it was the time to do it. The orange worked fine I just find that the green does not gel up on the thermostat or the coolant sensor as much and overall was cleaner . It had nothing to do with the lim I had changed that year 1 of owning my car . I do have to say that I was surprised how much gunk there was in the radiator and the heater core. When we blew out the orange after 10 years of running it.
lol I think you meant 3/8" & 1/2".
If you plan on doing your own maintanence imo it would be worth getting a good quality torque wrench. Craftsman makes a reliable click type if that's the style you prefer. You can feel the handle 'give' and the click is very audible when set torque is reached. There's really no need to get both a 3/8" & 1/2" drive though. You can use an adapter on a 1/2" drive for your 3/8" drive sockets. The only time you have to worry about it affecting your torque readings is if you use an extension more than 3" in length. If you prefer a digital have a look at the Brownline. I bought one a few months ago and it is spot on with the SnapOn I have (that gets sent in once a year for calibration). If this is just a one time shot I'd just rent a good torque wrench for the job. Just make sure it has been recently calibrated.
If you plan on doing your own maintanence imo it would be worth getting a good quality torque wrench. Craftsman makes a reliable click type if that's the style you prefer. You can feel the handle 'give' and the click is very audible when set torque is reached. There's really no need to get both a 3/8" & 1/2" drive though. You can use an adapter on a 1/2" drive for your 3/8" drive sockets. The only time you have to worry about it affecting your torque readings is if you use an extension more than 3" in length. If you prefer a digital have a look at the Brownline. I bought one a few months ago and it is spot on with the SnapOn I have (that gets sent in once a year for calibration). If this is just a one time shot I'd just rent a good torque wrench for the job. Just make sure it has been recently calibrated.
looks like im going to get or borrow a good torque wrench soon then
Thanks mike
Alright so i was able remove the UIM today, and after removal there were puddles of oil in the LIM
does It normally get that bad? it's dirty as hell lol I wonder what my L36 LIM looks like, especially with the 171k miles that it has haha
I also snatched some alum. Valve covers from a Camaro today, only $20 bucks removal was pretty easy and only took me about 30 minutes
They're a mess right now! Lol so I left the UIM and the valve covers soaking in purple power and water, hopefully that helps when I go to clean them tomorrow :p haha
I was also wondering, am I going to be able to keep the alum oil pan on the L26? Or do I have to use the one from the L36?
Some pics of the messy parts Lol
Alright so i was able remove the UIM today, and after removal there were puddles of oil in the LIM
does It normally get that bad? it's dirty as hell lol I wonder what my L36 LIM looks like, especially with the 171k miles that it has haha I also snatched some alum. Valve covers from a Camaro today, only $20 bucks
removal was pretty easy and only took me about 30 minutes They're a mess right now! Lol so I left the UIM and the valve covers soaking in purple power and water, hopefully that helps when I go to clean them tomorrow :p haha
I was also wondering, am I going to be able to keep the alum oil pan on the L26? Or do I have to use the one from the L36?
Some pics of the messy parts Lol
