My monte is dead :(
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 12,601
From: Mentor, Ohio
The key is to have a good torque wrench (I do NOT recommend the Harbor Freight torque wrenches) and to torque to the proper spec in the pattern the GM shop book (not a Chiltons or Haynes book) says (the Chilton/Haynes books are great references but are sometimes incorrect in what they say, I would validate torque spec and pattern against the real shop book).
You also want to validate that the mating/decking surface of the heads is flat and not warped. Poor man's way is to run a good straight edge across it.
I won't say NOT to replace the head bolts, I'm just saying I'm not a believer in it being a requirement.
Whether you reuse head bolts or not depends on the engine design. Some engines use what they call torque to yield head bolts. These engines require that you replace the head bolts when you reinstall the head(s). On engines that don't use torque to yield head bolts you are fine reusing the old bolts. Just make sure to clean the threads on the bolt and in the block (also do this for torque to yield) so you get an accurate reading when torquing them.
Man this is a great time to get rid of the Orange coolant 2 and go back to green because you can Blow everything out . Or that is at least what did
I've re-used head bolts and known others who have also re-used head bolts (one on a Vette that has seen a LOT of track time and abuse). As long as the threads are good, the heads aren't rounded it.s not a problem. My 3100 Grand Am got head bolts re-used at 180K and it's got almost 220K now.
The key is to have a good torque wrench (I do NOT recommend the Harbor Freight torque wrenches) and to torque to the proper spec in the pattern the GM shop book (not a Chiltons or Haynes book) says (the Chilton/Haynes books are great references but are sometimes incorrect in what they say, I would validate torque spec and pattern against the real shop book).
You also want to validate that the mating/decking surface of the heads is flat and not warped. Poor man's way is to run a good straight edge across it.
I won't say NOT to replace the head bolts, I'm just saying I'm not a believer in it being a requirement.
The key is to have a good torque wrench (I do NOT recommend the Harbor Freight torque wrenches) and to torque to the proper spec in the pattern the GM shop book (not a Chiltons or Haynes book) says (the Chilton/Haynes books are great references but are sometimes incorrect in what they say, I would validate torque spec and pattern against the real shop book).
You also want to validate that the mating/decking surface of the heads is flat and not warped. Poor man's way is to run a good straight edge across it.
I won't say NOT to replace the head bolts, I'm just saying I'm not a believer in it being a requirement.
Whether you reuse head bolts or not depends on the engine design. Some engines use what they call torque to yield head bolts. These engines require that you replace the head bolts when you reinstall the head(s). On engines that don't use torque to yield head bolts you are fine reusing the old bolts. Just make sure to clean the threads on the bolt and in the block (also do this for torque to yield) so you get an accurate reading when torquing them.
whats a set cost like $20ish?
and im also going to be getting a new torque wrench, how bad are the HB ones?

i guess im going to need a 1/4" and a 1/2" wrench lol
i just hosed all of the orange stuff out of the L26, it was pretty clean too
lightly washed some of the crud off, of course the real cleaning will come when i take it apart lol looks like this motor is in pretty good shape
The UIM will definitley be getting polished

here's the little info they had on it
i hope it's not a high mileage motor that will give me problems right away
lol
The UIM will definitley be getting polished


here's the little info they had on it
i hope it's not a high mileage motor that will give me problems right away
lol
ceramic coat those exhaust manifolds and then you can get that ugly cover off and cut allot of heat mine were sand blasted and done in black for 15$ at a local powder coat shop

we took the cover off after we say how it looked and i just shot mine with some 1100 VHT engine paint to add some color and to make it easier to spot leaks

we took the cover off after we say how it looked and i just shot mine with some 1100 VHT engine paint to add some color and to make it easier to spot leaks
it shouldent but i would replace the spark plugs and the lim and uim to make sure there wouldent be a surprise when starting the engine. but i hope you will be happy i am glad that you were able to get a engine for it

















