Like I said before. No need to touch the bottom end (rods, pistons etc.) The gen v supercharger comes off of a series 3 3800 so it's easy to get the upgraded one. It's easier and cheaper to upgrade the supercharger than to get ported heads.

 

Ok, I'll do some research on the Gen V supercharger and the swap and I'll research a new transmission too. And for the rebuild do you have any websites you recommend for parts?? I really appreciate the help man

 

I guess the question needs to be asked, at what point does the bottom end justify a rebuild? How many miles is reasonable to expect a L67 engine to last before a rebuild? Since it's getting rebuilt anyway, if he can only expect to get another 25,000 hard miles or so from it would it not be wise to go ahead and deal with it now? Just wondering John, you know way more about these things than I, yet we both know nothing lasts forever, there's currently a post on here now of a member looking for a new used L67engine as his failed....

 

have dave at triple edge performance build your trans. Zzp or intense for a cam, timing set, heads. Look on the grand prix forums for a used gen v supercharger and used heads are fine as well. I personally wouldn't use a used cam or timing set. If you find used head studs buy them up I got mine used. Used intercooler is fine as well. The more stuff u get used the more money you save for even more mods.

I have seen many bottom end rebuilds not last past 10,000 miles as not many people know how to rebuild them correctly. I've seen zzp short blocks not last also.

These engines are a dime a dozen and are cheap, if you do pop a piston replace the bottom end with a good junk yard one and have more fun again. (Cheaper doing this than building a bottom end and hoping it stays together) The bottom end is not a major failure point on these engines, they can take a big beating. I'm not saying it will never fail because they can but it doesn't happen very often.

 

Most times a bottom end failure comes from a failed oil pump or a bad tune with tons of knock and chips a piston.

With a good tune and always watching oil pressure chances are not that great of harming a stock bottom end.

 

I completely agree with turbo monte. These bottom ends are not a weak point in our engines. IIRC, ZZP's race GP was making ~800whp on a stock block. The main reason they replaced it was to go with an aluminum block to save weight.

Imo, I would just look for a good used turbo kit. You can find them under $2k easily if not around $1k. Turbos have so many options and are much easier to make hp. I've seen people make 300whp with only a turbo kit, nothing else.

 

so I was looking at a cam on zzperformance and I just got all kinds of confused with the add-ons and upgrades they have for it and what they recommend to do. could you help clarify what needs to be upgraded with the cam?? its the X-P HOT Cam btw

 

With higher lift cams and raised shift points with higher revs it stress the timing chain to failure that's why you need a double roller timing set.

The double roller timing set is wider that a stock timing set that's why a machined pump cover is needed so the front cover clears the thicker timing chain.

Be sure the heads have enough clearance for the cam lift as well.

When raising shift points and revs this will cause valve float which is why you need stronger springs. Stronger springs stress a timing set as well so this is another reason to need a double roller.

Since you made the springs stronger and the timing set stronger and have additional lift they recommend the modified retainers for clearance for the cam etc. I had my heads machined for the lift and used titanium retainers but that's just me. The retainers are stronger as well to handle the additional stress all the other parts are causing.

Comp oer lifters are noisy and not needed imo.

Pushrods you will have to measure and if custom length is needed order what you need, if your stock pushrods are correct length reuse them.

This is a very nice setup when complete and you make you very happy but is is kinda expensive do to all the supporting mods needed with a cam.

I don't suggest doubling the front cover gasket instead of buying a machined pump cover to clear the double roller as to me this is not a good fix it's the poor man's way around a permanent fix and just makes for a possible leak.

Hope this helps