Here is a quick guide I through together for those curious on installing a Gen V supercharger.

I have another guide I built with detailed pics at pretty much every step and labeling of all the parts that you will be working with but it is way too much to load up. Were talking more than 50 pics here. It's over 30 pages in MS Word.

Anyway, here is the info you seek.

In this guide we are going to take a specific approach to swapping a Gen III to Gen V supercharger. First we are going to utilize the stock PVC system and we are going to use an EGR block off plate. I will be including instructions on how to hook the Gen V up to the stock L67 Throttle Body but there are additional instructions on how to swap out to a NorthStar Throttle Body for increased airflow and performance.

I highly recommend purchasing a 24 drawer storage rack and labeling the drawers to hold the various bolts and nuts you will be taking off. It doesn’t cost much and will make the reassembly a snap knowing what each bolt and nut is for as well as being organized in how you took them off. For labeling I used 15 - 1” by 3” pieces of paper with the following labels: Right Diagonal Brace, Wizair (Air Box), L67 Throttle Body Nuts, EVAP Heat Shield, Alternator Bracket, Fuel Rail/System Parts, Fuel Injector Clips and Nuts, Boost Actuator Bolts, Supercharger Bolts, Alternator Bolts, Accessory Belt Tentioner Bracket Bolts, Engine Coolant Temp Sensor, EGR Pipe to LIM, Thermostat, LIM Bolts.


For this conversion you will need the following tools:
Safety Glasses – These are a MUST to safely work on any automotive project. You may think you look stupid in them or they may feel uncomfortable but you look a lot more stupid with a glass eye and you get used to wearing them quickly. To be completely frank about the appearance issue, people will think you are smarter for wearing them and respect you more for putting safety above appearance. Trust me on this one.
Shop Rags – to mop up coolant and clean up spilled fuel when disconnecting fuel rail.
Regular Sockets: 7 mm, 8 mm, 10 mm, 13 mm, 15 mm, 3/8”
Deep Well Sockets: 10 mm, 13 mm, 15 mm
Socket Extensions: 4”, 6”
Open End Wrenches: 3/4”, 15 mm, 19 mm
Screwdrivers: thin flat head, regular flat head
Fuel Line Quick Disconnect Tool – these come in a few variations. A common one is sold by ZZPerformance. I personally got a kit by Lisle from Sears.
Rubber Mallet

Gen V Preparation
Before we really start this project we want to make sure our new supercharger is in good condition. We are going to prepare the supercharger by replacing the old supercharger oil with new oil, place on an EGR block off plate, and finally install the throttle body adapter of choice.
There are a handful of options on how to remove the supercharger oil: using a turkey baster to suck the oil out or just turn the supercharger on its side and gravity drain the oil into a pan. I chose the latter.

Once the oil is drained we replace it with 1 ½ bottles of GM supercharger oil. Some people may say that you can use synthetic oil but this is a falsehood. Eaton states that OEMs have developed oil specifically designed to avoid breakdown and withstand high heat levels. Another way of looking at it is that you can find this oil for $7 - $9 a bottle, is it work saving $5 and burning out your new supercharger? I didn’t think so either. So we want to put a full bottle in and half of the other bottle in. The oil should come up to the bottom of the threads of the supercharger plug hole.

EGR Plug
You have 2 easy options for the EGR plug. One is to purchase an EGR block off plate from ZZPerformance under their “Exhaust” section for $5.99 or you can make your own with a scrap piece of metal laying around. I used the latter with a Dremel and this is what I ended up with. (Pic in document)

NorthStar Throttle Body Installation
I chose to install a NorthStar throttle body at this time of installation over the L67 stock throttle body. The stock throttle body has a 69 mm throttle plate for incoming air and the NorthStar has a 75 mm opening which almost perfectly matches the Gen V opening. In either case you will need to use a throttle body adapter plate: the L67 to Gen V plate or NorthStar to Gen V plate. They pretty much attach the exact same way the big difference will be regarding the PVC connection. The L67 stock throttle body has a small brass plug at the bottom. You will have to tap this out and attach your PVC system there. Certain NorthStar adapters have a connection built into them so you can just attach a hose from the PVC directly to the adapter plate. What you are trying to accomplish is having the PVC connection between the throttle body plate and the MAF sensor. This will allow you to have metered airflow into the PVC system.
As I found out with my installation you should use RTV or GM Adhesive on the Gen V inlet vs. putting in on the adapter plate itself. When I did mine I used RTV and placed it on the adapter plate. As you can see I missed the coolant holes on the Gen V inlet and when I first started it up I had coolant running all over the bottom of the supercharger, LIM, exhaust crossover pipe, and finally the transmission. So don’t make the same mistake I did. Put a circle of Sealer around the throttle body opening and around the two coolant holes.


Removing the Gen III Supercharger
1. Disconnect the Negative battery cable. 8 mm socket.
2. Lift car in air and drain coolant. The radiator drain **** is on the right side of the radiator below 2 air conditioner hoses. You will need a ¾” wrench to loosen the nut.
3. Drain oil. 15 mm socket.
Note: Once oil is drained lower the vehicle back to the ground to make it easier to work on.
4. Remove Diagonal Brace. 3 bolts. 13 mm socket.
5. Remove the Air Intake.
6. Remove the PCM. 2 bolts. 7 mm socket.
7. Disconnect 4 electrical connectors on the throttle body.
8. Disconnect the EVAP hose that connects to the throttle body.
9. Disconnect the accelerator cable and cruise control cable. The green cable connector just slides back and out. The red cable connector twists and slides out.
10. Remove the stock throttle body from the Gen III supercharger. 3 bolts. 10 mm deep well socket with a 4” extension.
Note: A small amount of coolant will run out from the supercharger.
11. Remove the EVAP heat shield. 1 nut and 1 bolt. 10 mm socket with 4” extension.
12. Remove the Coolant Recovery Tank. Disconnect hose from radiator. 2 nuts. 10 mm socket.
13. Remove supercharger belt. 15 mm socket.
14. Remove accessory belt. 15 mm socket.
15. Disconnect the 3 rear spark plug wires (6,2,4) from the coil pack and lay toward the back of the engine.
16. Remove the alternator support bracket. 15 mm deep well socket for nut on top of alternator, 13 mm regular socket for bolt that connects to back of supercharger.
17. Disconnect alternator electrical connections. 1 snap connection, 1 nut. 13 mm socket.
18. Remove alternator. 3 bolts. 15 mm deep well socket.
19. Open gas cap and relieve pressure on fuel rail.
20. Disconnect the vacuum line, and electrical cable from the fuel rail. This includes the fuel injector connections. To remove the fuel injector connections you simply push the small wire clip toward the fuel injector and lift up. Do this to all 6 injectors.
21. Disconnect the Fuel Feed and Return lines on top of the supercharger with a Fuel Line Quick Disconnect tool.
22. Remove the nut/bolt from the top of the Gen III supercharger that holds the fuel rail on. 13 mm deep well socket.
23. Remove the 4 fuel rail nuts. 10 mm socket. 6” extension.
24. Remove the fuel injector clips with a flat head screwdriver.
25. Pull the fuel rail and the injectors off as one unit. You will need to wiggle each injector individually as you pull up on the rail to get the fuel rail to let loose.
26. Disconnect the Boost Bypass Actuator. 2 bolts. 10 mm socket.
27. Disconnect the Vacuum Source Manifold on top of the Gen III supercharger. 2 bolts. 10 mm socket. We will be replacing the manifold on the Gen V with this one.
28. Disconnect the MAP/BARO sensor bracket. 2 bolts. 10 mm socket.
29. Remove the supercharger bolts. 10 total. 9 require a 10 mm socket with a 6” extension and the one next to where the throttle body was connected requires a 10 mm deep well socket.

Removing the Lower Intake Manifold
1. Remove the belt tensioner bracket with the 2 heater bypass hose connectors. 3 bolts. 15 mm wrench.
2. Remove the EGR pipe bracket bolt and nut. 13 mm deep well socket.
3. Remove the thermostat housing. 2 bolts. 10 mm deep well socket.
4. Remove the thermostat. Thin flat head screwdriver to pry it out.
5. Remove the Coolant Temperature Sensor below the thermostat. 19 mm wrench.
6. Remove the Lower Intake Manifold bolts. 12 bolts. 3/8” socket.
7. Remove the Lower Intake Manifold. You may want to use a rubber mallet to hit the sides of the manifold to help it let loose.
8. Mop up any coolant that spilled into the engine with shop rags.


You may need an alternator relocation kit to raise up the end by the supercharger. I shaved mine down with a Dremal and it seems to work fine.

Reverse instructions for assembly.

Once everything is back together put in some kind of synthetic 5w30 oil, run the engine for 10 minutes, drain oil and put in a new filter and new oil. It doesn't matter what brand as you are going to use as the key is that synthetic oil bonds with coolant and will flush it from your engine. Regular conventional oil does not bond with coolant. If coolant is present in your engine it can blow out bearings quickly. So cough up a couple of bucks for 2 oil changes and 1 filter.

 

If you drain the coolant from the engine block, then there shouldn't be much (if any) coolant in the blower or LIM.
Just a thought since you are already draining the radiator. Might as well go ahead and drain the block too while you're at it.

-Riggs.

 

The key is shouldn't. There is always still some in the lifter valleys no matter how careful you are. In the end I think $50 bucks in oil and a filter is great insurance over pulling the engine.

 

Personally, I prefer safety googles. I know they're even more dorky- but I wear regular glasses, so the safety glasses you put over them are big and bulk, and seem to slip off easily- thats why I like the elastic band; plus they're better when you're working around fluids and such.

I don't wear them as much as I should- but they definitely come in handy.

 

I like to keep a couple extra of these in my garage:



You know... Just in case they act like they always do.
I've found them at Pep Boys in the Misc. Help section.

 

Tip for getting coolant out of the blower/lower intake-

Drain your radiator.
Disconnect your thermostat housing.
Place a shop vac hose against the opening in the thermostat housing.
Suck out all of the coolant in the engine block.
Place the shop vac hose against the radiator hose disconnected from the themostat housing.
Ran the vac for 5 seconds (sucks any residual fluid out by sucking the other way).

I do this every time and NEVER get any coolant into the lifter valley.

I change the oil anyway though- being open to the air makes me think of all of the random stuff that could fall into it.