Im hoping to get some help here. 01 SS 3.8 sat for about 1yr due to a failed lifter. I changed the lifter and took the car for a spin. It was running fine then died out of nowhere. It finally started back up and I found one of the coil packs went bad. I replaced it and then the car wouldn't start. I tracked it down to the CPS so I changed it out. Now the car runs but it is very rough and has absolutely no power at all, it also spits and sputters. Sometimes the service engine light comes on or the check engine light will flash. I have already changed the cat. convertor. Is there something im missing here? It is firing on all cylinders but it seems like its mixed up.

Thanks for any help. If I cant fix it when the weather turns om going to junk it or just replace the engine and be done with it. Ive already had to purchase a beater to get to and from work but I really need my MC back now.

 

Since the car sat for a year I would drain the old fuel from the tank. Also, check and clean the MAF sensor.

 

- Check what the engine codes are and post them here.
- Verify the firing order, may also be worth changing plugs/wires. If you do, stay away from BOSCH plugs (wires are fine, plugs bad).
- Change the fuel filter. If you did not have fuel stabilizer in the tank 03SSLE brings a good point, could be old gas that is not burning right. If it's not a full tank rather then drain it, you might want to fill it up (I'd go for Premium if you are going to fill it up and then burn the tank and go back to Regular gas).
- Get MAF cleaner and clean the MAF sensor (it's quick, easy, cheap and these cars are known for the MAF getting goofy if it gets too dirty).

What is a CPS?

 

If the check engine light is flashing, that indicates you have a missfire. Have you had anyone read the codes?

If you ran old gas through it, it is likely you fouled the plugs. I would put a fresh set of AC/Delco plugs in it and see if that improves things. You may also need a set of wires.

 

Thanks for the suggestions. It was pretty low on fuel but I added about 5 gallons of premium to it.

Also I cleaned the MAF when I replaced the lifter. It ran fine for a few miles then it died out. I restarted fine with no issues and i drove it home. The next day I replaced the battery and tried to fire it. I wasn't getting spark so I tracked it down to the crank position sensor (CPS?). I replaced that and then it started but was missing. I found a dead coil and replaced it. I made sure the wires were on the correct plug. Then it started and I went for another drive. On this drive I noticed it had no power and was obviously not running correctly.

Th plugs and wires only have a few hundred miles on them because I thought it had fouled one out but that turned out to be the convertor.

I tried to read the codes and it didnt give me a readout.

Im fairly good with vehicles so I have tried what I thought could be the problem. Does anyone know the symptoms to a crank sensor that needs to calibrated?

 

That is not the only thing to cause intermittent check engine lights. We need the codes behind what tripped the light.

I only ask because me and BOSCH plugs (and some friends) have had problems sometimes from day one or 6 months later. Are those BOSCH plugs in the car right now? I'm not trying to be a jerk, but my personal experience of BOSCH plugs being junk says change them now before going further if they are.

As for the codes, you may need a different ODB-II scan tool. I've used a Snap-On that can tell me current codes, codes thrown since the last time they were cleared, codes thrown during this ignition cycle, and a couple other things. If the light popped one something tripped it. You may want to try and get it to a parts store and see if they can read additional information.

Have you checked for a vacuum leak? If not, grab a can of starting fluid and mist it around anywhere that has a vacuum connection.

Also, try inspecting the plug wires (all of them) for signs of damage. At night take a water bottle (like an old spray bottle) and with the engine idling, mist water from it. This may also help expose an arcing problem (you should hear and see it).

Another item you could do is pop the ICM off (sits under the coils), I know AutoZone has the ability to test those. I've heard of those causing failure but not stopping the car from running.

Right now, I'm grasping at straws, but these are reasonable ideas to look at. Also, you can disconnect the MAF and start the car and see if anything changes (if it does, you have a MAF issue).

 

Don't you need a crank relearn if you mess with the crank position sensor?

 

yes BlueSS hit it on the nail. was reading all that and was shocked no one thought of it. when ever you change the CPS you need to do a case learn. this lets the PCM know where everything is at. its like setting timing on an old distributor using a timing light.

what you will need is an autotap or other capable OBD2 reader to perform the case learn. the aeroforce scan gauge does it, as does the DHP power tuner. good chance this is all that is wrong now.

 

I'll be danged, you guys have a good point and I glossed over it. I just looked in the shop book and it said after changing the Crank Position Sensor, a relearn is required.

And it appears a scan tool is needed to initiate the relearn..... But I bet you guys are right, do that and the car should be running sweet.

 

Thanks guys! I will try and find someone local that can do the relearn because i know my scanner doesnt have the capability to do it.