Hub Bearing
#11
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 12,270
From: Mentor, Ohio
I always get the rule of noise-to-bad-bearing mixed up. Here's an article about it:
How to Locate Wheel Bearing Noise | eHow.com
According to that article, you turn to the right and the noise increases, therefore because of the shift in car weight and stress on the bearings, it's the left bearing. I'd go with left bearing.
FYI - My wife has a '05 Impala, I never realized it did not have ABS until changing the bearing. But it did not matter, it still had the plate that is sandwiched between the hub and the steering knuckle, the price diff between a Timkin with or without ABS was the same (or it was less for with ABS), I bought it with ABS. It does not harm, the connector is out of harms way.
BTW - I just watched that video of doing the hub, WOW, that is horrible!!
#1 - I would not use an impact on the rear bolts unless you can get it STRAIGHT on (he was having a LOT of trouble getting it straight). I spray the bolts and mating surfaces with PB Blaster when I start and because of how tight the bolts are, I loosen them a little at a time.
#2 - After he gets the last bolt out, the next part he's explaining a bracket that sits between the hub and the knuckle and he's rotating it freely (he has at LEAST a 1/4 inch gap on that hub to knuckle assembly). What this means.... The hub has ALREADY been removed and SET back into place for the video. There is no way, even on a brand new W-body car you'll get that hub out with your bare hands the way he did. And he explains it as being so effortless, just pull the hub out.
#3 - I tend to keep the wheel straight, but depending on how I feel, I may turn it to get to the top bolt. BUT, I've used sockets and extensions to get to the top bolt and I usually LEAVE it up there (with the socket and extension), if I do that, it's the FIRST bolt I start on re-assembly. This is just convenience.
The GM shop book has you use a puller that threads into the 3 holes on the hub and pushes AGAINST the axle shaft to pull it out (the axle shaft MUST be straight, so the wheels cannot be turned) when doing this.
I have not used a puller, but I've used an air hammer with a chisel bit. Takes a little finesse to not mess up that plate that holds the ABS wire.
WOW, because of item #2, that makes this video a FAIL!
How to Locate Wheel Bearing Noise | eHow.com
According to that article, you turn to the right and the noise increases, therefore because of the shift in car weight and stress on the bearings, it's the left bearing. I'd go with left bearing.
FYI - My wife has a '05 Impala, I never realized it did not have ABS until changing the bearing. But it did not matter, it still had the plate that is sandwiched between the hub and the steering knuckle, the price diff between a Timkin with or without ABS was the same (or it was less for with ABS), I bought it with ABS. It does not harm, the connector is out of harms way.
BTW - I just watched that video of doing the hub, WOW, that is horrible!!
#1 - I would not use an impact on the rear bolts unless you can get it STRAIGHT on (he was having a LOT of trouble getting it straight). I spray the bolts and mating surfaces with PB Blaster when I start and because of how tight the bolts are, I loosen them a little at a time.
#2 - After he gets the last bolt out, the next part he's explaining a bracket that sits between the hub and the knuckle and he's rotating it freely (he has at LEAST a 1/4 inch gap on that hub to knuckle assembly). What this means.... The hub has ALREADY been removed and SET back into place for the video. There is no way, even on a brand new W-body car you'll get that hub out with your bare hands the way he did. And he explains it as being so effortless, just pull the hub out.
#3 - I tend to keep the wheel straight, but depending on how I feel, I may turn it to get to the top bolt. BUT, I've used sockets and extensions to get to the top bolt and I usually LEAVE it up there (with the socket and extension), if I do that, it's the FIRST bolt I start on re-assembly. This is just convenience.
The GM shop book has you use a puller that threads into the 3 holes on the hub and pushes AGAINST the axle shaft to pull it out (the axle shaft MUST be straight, so the wheels cannot be turned) when doing this.
I have not used a puller, but I've used an air hammer with a chisel bit. Takes a little finesse to not mess up that plate that holds the ABS wire.
WOW, because of item #2, that makes this video a FAIL!
#12
You might want to rotate those tires and see what effect it has on the noise, might save yourself from changing the wheel hub.
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03-20-2012 04:32 PM