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6th Gen ('00-'05): Dual Brake Calipers

  #1  
Old 10-03-2018, 02:12 PM
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Default Dual Brake Calipers

I'm thinking about adding a hydro e-brake, and was wondering if anyone knows where to find a dual brake caliper adapter.
 
  #2  
Old 10-25-2018, 05:18 PM
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They do not exist for this platform. If you're serious about one, you should go to an engineering / fab shop. It's not difficult to design / build, but it would have to be a custom designed one off and will likely be fairly expensive. I'd be suprised if you could do the setup for under a grand.

Just curious, why a hydro ebrake? I get it on a RWD drift car, but I don't see the use on a FWD car.
 

Last edited by bumpin96monte; 10-25-2018 at 05:23 PM.
  #3  
Old 11-01-2018, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by bumpin96monte View Post
Just curious, why a hydro ebrake? I get it on a RWD drift car, but I don't see the use on a FWD car.
For me it would be half function, half looks. The function would be for drag racing. Locking up the rear wheels for the burnout, and where I'll mount the two step button. The looks half is it'll be a nice addition to the "race car" look I want. (roll cage, bucket seats, harness, etc.)
 
  #4  
Old 11-01-2018, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by WolvenScout View Post
For me it would be half function, half looks. The function would be for drag racing. Locking up the rear wheels for the burnout,
They came from the factory with an ebrake that'll hold the car just fine. If you really must have a hydraulic option you can activate with a button, just install a line lock kit on the existing brakes.

Before you spend a butt ton of money on useless add ons for drag racing, I'd strongly suggest getting engine/trans built and actually run it. If you're really running it, you'll have plenty to spend your money on between tires and trans rebuilds.

and where I'll mount the two step button.
2 step is another one of those things I wouldn't touch until you really get into it. Seriously, you're going to have an extremely hard time getting it to hook as it is, theres no reason to start out trying to launch it at full boost.

The looks half is it'll be a nice addition to the "race car" look I want. (roll cage, bucket seats, harness, etc.)
I'd also reccomend against doing 'race car stuff' for looks, especially on a street car. I'm especially against a roll cage on the street ever. You get in a serious wreck and smash your bare head on that steel tube and it's over. Unless you plan on driving to the store with your helmet on....
 
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Old 11-01-2018, 08:56 PM
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There is one 'race car look' mod I would suggest, and that's gutting the car. Take out all of the unnecessary stuff - radio, AC, backseats, etc will help it go faster for drag racing. The side benefit is that it'll also help the trans stay alive longer too.
 
  #6  
Old 11-02-2018, 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by bumpin96monte View Post
They came from the factory with an ebrake that'll hold the car just fine. If you really must have a hydraulic option you can activate with a button, just install a line lock kit on the existing brakes.
It might just be the brakes and rotors on the car, but my ebrake doesn't hold very well. It especially wouldn't hold during a WOT burnout. I'm also talking about a lever style hydro ebrake, that uses a cylinder and brake fluid.
Originally Posted by bumpin96monte View Post
Before you spend a butt ton of money on useless add ons for drag racing, I'd strongly suggest getting engine/trans built and actually run it. If you're really running it, you'll have plenty to spend your money on between tires and trans rebuilds.
I don't plan on drag racing like every other weekend, for example. Just ocassionally.
Originally Posted by bumpin96monte View Post
I'd also reccomend against doing 'race car stuff' for looks, especially on a street car. I'm especially against a roll cage on the street ever. You get in a serious wreck and smash your bare head on that steel tube and it's over. Unless you plan on driving to the store with your helmet on....
I just might do that. I really like the safety of a roll cage, regardless of where the cars driven. Cause you can see tons of videos of people who aren't even driving fast or recklessly, just getting hit, and their vehicle rolls over, crushing the cabin.
Originally Posted by bumpin96monte View Post
There is one 'race car look' mod I would suggest, and that's gutting the car. Take out all of the unnecessary stuff - radio, AC, backseats, etc will help it go faster for drag racing. The side benefit is that it'll also help the trans stay alive longer too.
I've already removed the back seat and carpeting. When I find the time, I plan on removing the rest of the carpet in the trunk, and scraping off the sound deadening, to prep the interior for paint. I will probably order an AC delete from zzp, since my AC doesn't work anyway.
 
  #7  
Old 11-02-2018, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by WolvenScout View Post
It might just be the brakes and rotors on the car, but my ebrake doesn't hold very well. It especially wouldn't hold during a WOT burnout. I'm also talking about a lever style hydro ebrake, that uses a cylinder and brake fluid.
Just fix the ebrake. To me that sounds like saying your engine doesn't work well, so you're going to swap another engine onto the rear wheels.

The factory ebrake, if properly functioning, will lock the rear wheels 100%. If your problem is dragging the locked wheels, then a hydro brake won't help that.

I just might do that. I really like the safety of a roll cage, regardless of where the cars driven. Cause you can see tons of videos of people who aren't even driving fast or recklessly, just getting hit, and their vehicle rolls over, crushing the cabin.
The only way it is safe to drive with a full cage is with a helmet. If you're going to wear your helmet driving on the street to the grocery store, then that's fine. But driving with a cage and no helmet is MORE DANGEROUS.

Sure it'll keep the roof intact, but if you've rolled it that hard to smash the roof in, you WILL smack your head on the bar, and you will die. This has been proven numerous times - cages are for track cars only.
 
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Old 11-02-2018, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by bumpin96monte View Post
Just fix the ebrake. To me that sounds like saying your engine doesn't work well, so you're going to swap another engine onto the rear wheels.

The factory ebrake, if properly functioning, will lock the rear wheels 100%. If your problem is dragging the locked wheels, then a hydro brake won't help that.
Yeah, obviously I plan on replacing the brakes before doing any of this. As for just using the ebrake, I want the car to look cool, and a hydro brake would make a good addition to the interior. It'll also be fun to install and use.


Originally Posted by bumpin96monte View Post
The only way it is safe to drive with a full cage is with a helmet. If you're going to wear your helmet driving on the street to the grocery store, then that's fine. But driving with a cage and no helmet is MORE DANGEROUS.

Sure it'll keep the roof intact, but if you've rolled it that hard to smash the roof in, you WILL smack your head on the bar, and you will die. This has been proven numerous times - cages are for track cars only.
I'm not disputing the fact that using a cage without a helmet is dangerous. I know that it is. A roll cage is just something I want in the vehicle, for safety, and looks.

 
  #9  
Old 11-04-2018, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by WolvenScout View Post
Yeah, obviously I plan on replacing the brakes before doing any of this. As for just using the ebrake, I want the car to look cool, and a hydro brake would make a good addition to the interior. It'll also be fun to install and use.
Id just pick up some calipers and take those with you hubs to a local fab /machine shop. Wont be hard to make, just expensive being a custom job. It'll also depend on how you plan to use it. If you're just using it as a parking brake for track burnouts, it doesn't have to be that stout. If you're planning to try and slide the car with it it'll need to be a lot more robust. If it's the latter, you'll have to do some rear suspension work too. The rear end suspension was never designed for loads like that on a repeated basis.

I'd think this would kinda be a detractor from looks having a drift brake setup on a FWD car that can't actually drift, but of course that's just personal opinion.

I'm not disputing the fact that using a cage without a helmet is dangerous. I know that it is. A roll cage is just something I want in the vehicle, for safety, and looks.
Just pointing it out so you're aware. Id hate for you to do it and then be suprised that you have to wear a helmet just to drive to Walmart.

Like the above, I'd also personally think this would be a big detractor to looks. I'd imagine you'd get a lot of laughs climbing out of a caged 11 or 12 second street car with your helmet on at Walmart or something.

If it's mostly for race car looks anyways, I'd probably just do a chute instead. A lot more visual impact without being such a giant pain for street driving.
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Last edited by bumpin96monte; 11-04-2018 at 07:47 PM.
  #10  
Old 11-05-2018, 01:49 AM
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Originally Posted by bumpin96monte View Post
If it's mostly for race car looks anyways, I'd probably just do a chute instead. A lot more visual impact without being such a giant pain for street driving.​​​​​
Yeah, a chute would look nice as well. Thanks for your input. I really like coming to this forum and just talking through some of my ideas with the people here. It helps refine the ideas I have, and gives me information I might not have found otherwise.
 

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