They are about $75 a piece. This happens to be pictures of the GXP calipers and rotors.

 

hmm niceee. my rotors are less than a year old but i'm starting to look for which drilled or slotted rotors i want. would those fit a monte?

 

Those are on my Monte Carlo SS SC 2005. I have the GXP kit both front and rear available from W-Body store. Need 18" wheels for the GXP kits. However there are Raybestos rotors just like that available for stock rotor sizes.

 

ohhhh lol gotcha. hmm that bites i have the 17" wheels. Well I'll most def have to look into those rotors since they'll fit stock size. Thanks!

 

tom whatd you use for a jack point in those pics? i cant find a good stop to jack up both rear tires at once

 

I had the same rust problem. I just went with drilled and slottted rotors. No rust any more.

 

sorry i got off topic above lol, with drilled and slotted you can keep the stock calipers and pads then right? and do you have to bleed the brakes or do they just line right up and go in good?

 

lol its cool mitch. i really dont care if my threads get off topic tbh bcuz i do the same thing =D

 

I went thru this last spring, and didn't even spend a dime, but the paint isn't holding up well, so I'm probably going to do it again soon with high temp paint. I have Powerslot rotors, and I would recommend nothing else WHEN it comes time to replace yours. But until then, you'll need of course some hi-temp paint, color of your choice, a plastic tub or bucket or tub big enough to put the rotors in, dish washing gloves, a garden hose, an air hose, masking tape, safety glasses, and the magic ingredient, muriatic acid, available at any hardware for about $5 a gallon, and only 1 is needed. You will also need a box of baking soda to neutralize the acid when you are done.Add water as needed, as the acid is VERY strong as purchased.
BE CAREFUL doing the dip, but dip them and turn them over a few times until you are convinced they are clean. Maybe even use an old paint brush on them. When you are done, rinse them off completely with the hose and blow them dry. Immediately mask off the pad contact area (with a small area not covered, so the edges are painted) and paint it. You might need to do them 1 at a time, as they will rust quick.
That will let you get the outer edges, the center, everything. I didn't paint the area in contact with the hub, nor the area where the wheel is.
When disposing the acid, add some baking soda to neutralize it, and dump it where it won't kill the grass or anything.
Really pretty easy, but I CAN NOT emphasize the care needed when using the acid.
This next time, I'm going to try to rinse off the acid, then dip them in a baking soda solution to try to neutralize the acid on the rotors. I think that will work. But the bare metal will STILL rust fast, and needs to be painted quickly. That might give me a little extra time.

 

Yes, regular pads and calipers. I'm not really a huge fan of spending extra money on drilled or slotted, especially just for a regular car. I'd rather save money and just get regular OEM replacements, its not like it really helps braking performance on normal cars anyway.

Only time you need to bleed the brakes is if you open the brake fluid system at all (ie removing a caliper completely from the car, removing the master cylinder, replacing rusted through lines, changing brake fluid, etc). Doing a pad & rotor swap, you can just leave the caliper connected to the flexible brake line- and just tie it up out of the way, so you never open the fluid lines.

So that completely eats through the rust?