6th Gen ('00-'05): Well now I'm in a pickle..... HELP!
So, I've been trying to replace my front left wheel hub and it's been fighting me a bit more than I thought it would. First I had stubborn bolts on the caliper bracket even after soaking them with PB Blaster so I bought a Milwaukee impact and solved that problem. I finally get to the hub bolts and it appears that someone had either attempted removal previously or used the same bolts on a reinstall instead of new bolts and one of them is rounded off. Now I'm trying to decide..... and this is where advice from you guys (and gals?) comes in...... should I buy an extractor socket set for ~$30 and attempt to remove the bolt, which potentially has loctite on it, or should I buy a new steering knuckle for ~$50 through Rock Auto and just remove the knuckle and hub as 1 unit then install the new knuckle and hub? I think some questions that come to mind right off as far as replacing the knuckle would be ..... how hard is it to remove the top 2 bolts and what size are they? I assume the tie rod bolt is fairly easy to remove? Would changing the knuckle cause any alignment issues? Another question I have in regards to the extractor socket is can I use the impact with the socket? The socket set I found is for an impact but is it going to dig into the head of the bolt or just spin right off and leave me in more of a jam? I imagine setting the impact to the lowest torque setting would be advisable or should I just attempt to use the extractor with a breaker bar or ratchet and break it loose that way? My brain says just replace the knuckle because if the extractor socket doesn't work then I'm out $80 instead of just $50 if I just went straight to replacing the knuckle but it also seems like replacing the entire knuckle might be more of a pain. Sorry for the long-winded post. Hopefully someone here has had this same issue or has experience with extractor sockets and can help.
EDIT: ****.... I forgot about the ball joint which I'm assuming attaches to the bottom of the steering knuckle? I bet that's a PITA to remove.
EDIT: ****.... I forgot about the ball joint which I'm assuming attaches to the bottom of the steering knuckle? I bet that's a PITA to remove.
Last edited by pjstar35; Jun 4, 2024 at 07:59 PM.
Does autozone rent extractors? If they do, I'd probably give that a try first as it'll be virtually free. Id personally use a hand tool on it, they shouldn't be that tight.
If youre concerned there's loctite present- especially if its red, hit it with some heat.
If youre concerned there's loctite present- especially if its red, hit it with some heat.
That bolt head must be in pretty rough shape if you're thinking a cutoff wheel may be necessary. Personally I've had pretty good luck with the bolt extractors shaped like a socket but with the swirl of sharp teeth inside to latch on. Ive managed to get out nearly completely round (from corrosion) bolts like that if a small enough size is hammered onto them.
Like you said though, it couldn't happen to a better bolt. Usually you're deathly afraid of breaking the bolt head off for fear of the much worse process of extracting the remains. But luckily that doesn't apply here.
Like you said though, it couldn't happen to a better bolt. Usually you're deathly afraid of breaking the bolt head off for fear of the much worse process of extracting the remains. But luckily that doesn't apply here.
That bolt head must be in pretty rough shape if you're thinking a cutoff wheel may be necessary. Personally I've had pretty good luck with the bolt extractors shaped like a socket but with the swirl of sharp teeth inside to latch on. Ive managed to get out nearly completely round (from corrosion) bolts like that if a small enough size is hammered onto them.
Like you said though, it couldn't happen to a better bolt. Usually you're deathly afraid of breaking the bolt head off for fear of the much worse process of extracting the remains. But luckily that doesn't apply here.
Like you said though, it couldn't happen to a better bolt. Usually you're deathly afraid of breaking the bolt head off for fear of the much worse process of extracting the remains. But luckily that doesn't apply here.
They're impact-grade chrome-moly steel sockets so I'm not worried about the sockets themselves.
Well it's finally done. Bought a set of metric impact-grade extractor sockets from Hobo Freight and it worked like a charm. Got the other 2 bolts off with no issues and had to give the hub a few hammer hits in 3 different places and it popped right out. Overall, the whole thing ended up costing me more than having a shop do it but now I own a Milwaukee cordless impact, which I've never owned before, to make future repair jobs easier.
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 12,606
From: Mentor, Ohio
Congrats on a win!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Repair Guide: How To Change a Wheel Hub Assembly
ChibiBlackSheep
FWD Tech Guides '95-'07
54
Oct 13, 2015 10:47 AM
Radagast the White
Tires/Rims/Suspension
1
Sep 15, 2013 03:00 PM











