2005 front wheel hub
#1
12-30-2011, 05:54 AM
2005 front wheel hub
ANyone have any adivice on removing the driver's side front wheel hub? I think I have a bearing going bad. Can this be done in the driveway? Thanks for any help.
#3
12-30-2011, 06:17 AM
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mentor, Ohio
Posts: 12,153
I've done 4 front W-Body hub assemblies on different W-Bodies this year (my Monte, my wife's Impala and a friend's Grand Prix) and I did one on my '94 Grand Am a couple weeks ago.
They are easy, but I don't recommend it if you don't have access to a air impact gun and a air hammer (though I've read instructions on how to do it without the air hammer).
- You get the car in the air (secured with jack stand) and the wheel off.
- I like to spray the mating surface, axle nut and bolts with a little PB Blaster at this point (especially if it's REALLY rusty).
- Disconnect the ABS sensor cable. Pay attention to the wire's orientation when you are doing this (as I found on different year W-Bodies, it had two different orientations, it's no big deal, just annoying when you find you did it wrong and the connector on the new hub won't reach).
- Remove the 3 bolts holding the hub to the steering knuckle (they are on the back side of the knuckle). I typically unbolt them a little at a time and as I move to the next one hit it with another shot of PB Blaster (especially one car that bolts were REALLY tight coming out).
- Sometimes the top bolt rests where it's at and I leave it (so long as it's no longer threaded to the hub assembly).
- Use your air impact gun, remove the axle nut (if you don't have the socket for that, I believe the auto parts stores can do a loan a tool for that).
- Once the all that is free, use the air hammer and a flat chisel bit between the hub assembly and the knuckle (I start at the points of the triangle were the bolts were). It will slowly work itself out.
- Part of the hub assembly might separate, if so, no biggie, I've gotten the rest out with a hammer and a flat head screw driver.
- Once popped out, get a wire brush and remove the debris from the knuckle (try to make it smooth again).
- Feed you ABS connector through first, I like to coat the areas where the hub assembly makes contact with the steering knuckle with some anti-seize, also add a dab of that to the bolts and the spline for the axle shaft.
- Bolt the 3 bolts in the back first, just thread them a little at a time (as they will pull the hub into the knuckle.
- Hand thread the axle nut and use the impact gun to force it back on.
I think you know the rest. From start to finish, the job takes me an hour to do. I also have been buying Timken bearings. I find if you get a coupon code for RockAuto, the Timken bearing even after shipping is then CHEAPER then me buying it locally.
They are easy, but I don't recommend it if you don't have access to a air impact gun and a air hammer (though I've read instructions on how to do it without the air hammer).
- You get the car in the air (secured with jack stand) and the wheel off.
- I like to spray the mating surface, axle nut and bolts with a little PB Blaster at this point (especially if it's REALLY rusty).
- Disconnect the ABS sensor cable. Pay attention to the wire's orientation when you are doing this (as I found on different year W-Bodies, it had two different orientations, it's no big deal, just annoying when you find you did it wrong and the connector on the new hub won't reach).
- Remove the 3 bolts holding the hub to the steering knuckle (they are on the back side of the knuckle). I typically unbolt them a little at a time and as I move to the next one hit it with another shot of PB Blaster (especially one car that bolts were REALLY tight coming out).
- Sometimes the top bolt rests where it's at and I leave it (so long as it's no longer threaded to the hub assembly).
- Use your air impact gun, remove the axle nut (if you don't have the socket for that, I believe the auto parts stores can do a loan a tool for that).
- Once the all that is free, use the air hammer and a flat chisel bit between the hub assembly and the knuckle (I start at the points of the triangle were the bolts were). It will slowly work itself out.
- Part of the hub assembly might separate, if so, no biggie, I've gotten the rest out with a hammer and a flat head screw driver.
- Once popped out, get a wire brush and remove the debris from the knuckle (try to make it smooth again).
- Feed you ABS connector through first, I like to coat the areas where the hub assembly makes contact with the steering knuckle with some anti-seize, also add a dab of that to the bolts and the spline for the axle shaft.
- Bolt the 3 bolts in the back first, just thread them a little at a time (as they will pull the hub into the knuckle.
- Hand thread the axle nut and use the impact gun to force it back on.
I think you know the rest. From start to finish, the job takes me an hour to do. I also have been buying Timken bearings. I find if you get a coupon code for RockAuto, the Timken bearing even after shipping is then CHEAPER then me buying it locally.
#5
12-30-2011, 05:59 PM
Its really easy.I didnt use a air gun or hammer and ive changed both my front hubs! Let us know how you make out! And if I had to do it again i would order them off ebay,alot cheaper and you get two!
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