Had a tick for a while, Ive done a lot of repairs to my 3.1 monte. Ive even reseated the valves but I cant seem to get rid of this tick. Ive ruled out lifter tick and exhaust leak cause there doesn't seem to be any leak from the exhaust and no matter how much lucas I put into it the tick never gets any quieter or goes away.

I think it could be rod knock so this weekend Im planning to take off the oil pan and timing cover to see whats up. Im not a mechanic, Im an 18 year old kid who just wants to see the car run mint. If anyone has any suggestions or has had a similar issue and can give me advice Id love to hear it. Thank you

 

Are you sure its not injectors?

IMO I wouldnt bother pulling all that stuff out to check the rods. If that really is bad theres nothing you can do anyways. The end result is another junkyard engine, so I'd just run it until it blows unless you absolutely needed to rely on it for long distance trips or something.

Do you have any mechanically inclined friends? Rod knock is unmistakably different from lifter tick / exhaust leak. So maybe someone with experience could take a listen to give you more feedback. Hard to provide many suggestions online without actually hearing it in person.

 

Got a set of used injectors from the upullrparts and nope same exact ticking noise, read through my manual and it says if the octane is below 87 it can cause a knock so I put some turbo 108 in and did a slalom to mix it all up and let it run for about 15 minutes and still same tick.

 

In the future if youre testing octane, I'd just put 1/4 tank of premium in it from empty. Octane booster can be finicky stuff that doesn't always work as intended and 91-93 is plenty to kill all knock on an engine like this given its optimized for 87.

For a situation like this though, there's no way it can be real combustion knock. In general you'll never hear knock in a modern engine as the computer has a knock sensor and will immediately back timing off if it hears it. Something would have to be really broken if it was pulling max timing and still had audible knock.

The other thing is combustion knock only occurs under load. If something was so broken that an engine was knocking at idle/ low speed, it would fall flat on its face if you hit the gas and put it under real load.

 

It aint causin me any trouble driving so Ill just let it tick until something happens or I finish ---> this.. I went out today and got a pretty good lookin 3.8 whos previous owner took good care of, Im going to rebuild it and then eventually swap it somewhere down the road. Are there any performance parts I should look into ie. higher compression pistons. I ordered a standard rebuild kit for it, also is there a transmission thats specifically for a 3.8 with a turbo/supercharger I plan on putting one on eventually and Id like to not have to replace a torn up transmission as Ive seen posts online saying there is a specific transmission for the ss model just dont know what separates the two if there actually is two different types. Also thank you for all of your guys' help Im new to this whole mechanic thing and you guys have been very kind and I appreciate that.

 

The differences are a heavy duty diff or a lighter duty diff and differing gear ratios.

4t65eHD > Supercharged > Stronger diff > Slightly longer gears

4t65e > Na > Weaker diff > Shorter gears

You also have to match up the years ive heard. Different years came with different electrical connections, is what ive been told.

 

Hear is a link to a possible remedy that I found on this forum.
https://montecarloforum.com/forum/en...nocking-42380/

 

thank you

 

And in my opinion if you have any kind of throttle control whatsoever, the non-HD might be a better option because of the shorter gears. As long as youre not spinning one wheel all the time the "HD" isnt necessary. I think that was GM's way of sorta idiot proofing.

But on the other hand if you prefer just slamming the throttle and going, the HD might be a better option.