Struts install & wheel bearing???
#1
06-17-2012, 10:53 AM
Struts install & wheel bearing???
Hello guys, just wondering how hard it is to get the front / rear springs compressed to replace my struts. At the Harbor Fright tool store they sell a cheap spring compressor and was wondering if that was good enough to compress the Monte springs to put them on the new struts... I don't want to get killed while trying to do this, but I know the rest is pretty strait forward. Also, should you replace the "kits" when you replace the struts ( the upper plates the struts go into, I know if you do, you'll need a wheel alignment . Also, I need to replace my front drivers side wheel bearing, should be pretty easy but do you guys think I should replace them by the pair, or just the bad one? Thanks again....Michael... Any info would be fantastic ... Mjc...
#2
06-17-2012, 11:06 AM
Compressing the springs is pritty easy it's just making sure you get them compressed enough before pulling the strut nut is key , if I am not mystaken my spring compressor are from harbor freight, and they work just fine, I would do the top plates while at it thread i made~ > https://montecarloforum.com/forum/ho...acement-28934/
#4
06-18-2012, 12:03 PM
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mentor, Ohio
Posts: 12,163
In advance, sorry for the long reply, just trying to give you all the info I can.
It might be worth looking for a set of "quick struts" that come with the springs, strut and strut plate. All you have to do is get the old ones out and slame these in.
Also, some tire shops that do strut replacements will do for a small fee will compress your springs and swap the struts (and their spring compressors are better then the loan-a-tool type).
Replacing the struts at ALL requires a wheel alignment since you remove the camber bolts (these are the bolts that attache the strut to the steering knuckle).
The bolts I mentioned typically have a spline on them, they are "pressed" in, don't expect them to turn. I recommend having an air hammer with a "punch" bit. Remove the nut (or leave it so it's flush with the end of the bolt). Use the air hammer to push the bolt through. IF it does NOT push through, get a torch (like a propane torch), heat ONLY the ends of the bolt (this will make the bolt expand slightly in the knuckle, but DON'T heat the knuckle). Let it cool. Once cool, the "bond" the bolt and the knuckle had "should" be loosened. Use the air hammer again.
I've done a BUNCH of wheel hubs, mostly W-Body. If you have not purchased the up, might I recommend a Timken bearing (made in the USA, probably the LAST one you will ever need). I typically buy them from RockAuto (cheaper then getting it locally). I've replaced single hubs before. If you are worried, inspect the opposite one. I have also been burned by replace the louder one (thinking it was the ONLY one) and then finding both were bad.
Also, when doing a wheel hub, if you don't have the puller GM recommends, you best have that air hammer and a chissel bit (that's what I have always used). The front hub is pressed into the knuckle. I like to soak the bolts and mating surface of the hub with PB Blaster. When I remove the 3 bolts on the back, I break each loose and taken them out a little at a time (same as putting them in). I remove the top one last as many a time, I leave the bolt, socket and extention there (it can be a tight spot to get all that out and back due to the CV boot).
Using the air hammer with a chissel bit, you can force the thing between the hub and knuckle and work your way around.
If you don't have the puller OR the air chisel, forget it. You will work yourself to death trying to pound that hub out.
These days I can typically do a W-Body front hub in 1 hour (that includes getting the tools and putting them away).
BTW - Someone on MCF posted a YouTube video of doing a w-body wheel hub, that video really screws the Internet crowd, the guy never shows how he losened the hub from the knuckle (leaving the viewer to think he removed it with his bare hands).
It might be worth looking for a set of "quick struts" that come with the springs, strut and strut plate. All you have to do is get the old ones out and slame these in.
Also, some tire shops that do strut replacements will do for a small fee will compress your springs and swap the struts (and their spring compressors are better then the loan-a-tool type).
Replacing the struts at ALL requires a wheel alignment since you remove the camber bolts (these are the bolts that attache the strut to the steering knuckle).
The bolts I mentioned typically have a spline on them, they are "pressed" in, don't expect them to turn. I recommend having an air hammer with a "punch" bit. Remove the nut (or leave it so it's flush with the end of the bolt). Use the air hammer to push the bolt through. IF it does NOT push through, get a torch (like a propane torch), heat ONLY the ends of the bolt (this will make the bolt expand slightly in the knuckle, but DON'T heat the knuckle). Let it cool. Once cool, the "bond" the bolt and the knuckle had "should" be loosened. Use the air hammer again.
I've done a BUNCH of wheel hubs, mostly W-Body. If you have not purchased the up, might I recommend a Timken bearing (made in the USA, probably the LAST one you will ever need). I typically buy them from RockAuto (cheaper then getting it locally). I've replaced single hubs before. If you are worried, inspect the opposite one. I have also been burned by replace the louder one (thinking it was the ONLY one) and then finding both were bad.
Also, when doing a wheel hub, if you don't have the puller GM recommends, you best have that air hammer and a chissel bit (that's what I have always used). The front hub is pressed into the knuckle. I like to soak the bolts and mating surface of the hub with PB Blaster. When I remove the 3 bolts on the back, I break each loose and taken them out a little at a time (same as putting them in). I remove the top one last as many a time, I leave the bolt, socket and extention there (it can be a tight spot to get all that out and back due to the CV boot).
Using the air hammer with a chissel bit, you can force the thing between the hub and knuckle and work your way around.
If you don't have the puller OR the air chisel, forget it. You will work yourself to death trying to pound that hub out.
These days I can typically do a W-Body front hub in 1 hour (that includes getting the tools and putting them away).
BTW - Someone on MCF posted a YouTube video of doing a w-body wheel hub, that video really screws the Internet crowd, the guy never shows how he losened the hub from the knuckle (leaving the viewer to think he removed it with his bare hands).
#5
06-18-2012, 09:42 PM
I usually remove my calipers and thread the nut onto the end of the strut to knuckle bolts and then beat the hell out of them with a 5 lb sledge. Your first time will probably take the better part of a day to do all 4. With practice (and an impact wrench) I can swap a strut mount out in about an hour from jacking the car up to putting it back on the ground.
#6
06-19-2012, 11:10 AM
This. I bought a set of cheap Harbor Freight compressors and promptly threw them in the trash after attempting to use them. Now whenever I need to compress springs I use these from and my electric impact wrench. I can't imagine having to compress them with hand tools.
I usually remove my calipers and thread the nut onto the end of the strut to knuckle bolts and then beat the hell out of them with a 5 lb sledge. Your first time will probably take the better part of a day to do all 4. With practice (and an impact wrench) I can swap a strut mount out in about an hour from jacking the car up to putting it back on the ground.
I usually remove my calipers and thread the nut onto the end of the strut to knuckle bolts and then beat the hell out of them with a 5 lb sledge. Your first time will probably take the better part of a day to do all 4. With practice (and an impact wrench) I can swap a strut mount out in about an hour from jacking the car up to putting it back on the ground.
Thanks for the info... Sounds like I need to have someone else do it..... Hmmmmmmm I'm a tad handicapped and it sounds like I won't be able to do this on my own... Thanks.. Mjclemm
#7
06-19-2012, 11:14 AM
In advance, sorry for the long reply, just trying to give you all the info I can.
It might be worth looking for a set of "quick struts" that come with the springs, strut and strut plate. All you have to do is get the old ones out and slame these in.
Also, some tire shops that do strut replacements will do for a small fee will compress your springs and swap the struts (and their spring compressors are better then the loan-a-tool type).
Replacing the struts at ALL requires a wheel alignment since you remove the camber bolts (these are the bolts that attache the strut to the steering knuckle).
The bolts I mentioned typically have a spline on them, they are "pressed" in, don't expect them to turn. I recommend having an air hammer with a "punch" bit. Remove the nut (or leave it so it's flush with the end of the bolt). Use the air hammer to push the bolt through. IF it does NOT push through, get a torch (like a propane torch), heat ONLY the ends of the bolt (this will make the bolt expand slightly in the knuckle, but DON'T heat the knuckle). Let it cool. Once cool, the "bond" the bolt and the knuckle had "should" be loosened. Use the air hammer again.
I've done a BUNCH of wheel hubs, mostly W-Body. If you have not purchased the up, might I recommend a Timken bearing (made in the USA, probably the LAST one you will ever need). I typically buy them from RockAuto (cheaper then getting it locally). I've replaced single hubs before. If you are worried, inspect the opposite one. I have also been burned by replace the louder one (thinking it was the ONLY one) and then finding both were bad.
Also, when doing a wheel hub, if you don't have the puller GM recommends, you best have that air hammer and a chissel bit (that's what I have always used). The front hub is pressed into the knuckle. I like to soak the bolts and mating surface of the hub with PB Blaster. When I remove the 3 bolts on the back, I break each loose and taken them out a little at a time (same as putting them in). I remove the top one last as many a time, I leave the bolt, socket and extention there (it can be a tight spot to get all that out and back due to the CV boot).
Using the air hammer with a chissel bit, you can force the thing between the hub and knuckle and work your way around.
If you don't have the puller OR the air chisel, forget it. You will work yourself to death trying to pound that hub out.
These days I can typically do a W-Body front hub in 1 hour (that includes getting the tools and putting them away).
BTW - Someone on MCF posted a YouTube video of doing a w-body wheel hub, that video really screws the Internet crowd, the guy never shows how he losened the hub from the knuckle (leaving the viewer to think he removed it with his bare hands).
It might be worth looking for a set of "quick struts" that come with the springs, strut and strut plate. All you have to do is get the old ones out and slame these in.
Also, some tire shops that do strut replacements will do for a small fee will compress your springs and swap the struts (and their spring compressors are better then the loan-a-tool type).
Replacing the struts at ALL requires a wheel alignment since you remove the camber bolts (these are the bolts that attache the strut to the steering knuckle).
The bolts I mentioned typically have a spline on them, they are "pressed" in, don't expect them to turn. I recommend having an air hammer with a "punch" bit. Remove the nut (or leave it so it's flush with the end of the bolt). Use the air hammer to push the bolt through. IF it does NOT push through, get a torch (like a propane torch), heat ONLY the ends of the bolt (this will make the bolt expand slightly in the knuckle, but DON'T heat the knuckle). Let it cool. Once cool, the "bond" the bolt and the knuckle had "should" be loosened. Use the air hammer again.
I've done a BUNCH of wheel hubs, mostly W-Body. If you have not purchased the up, might I recommend a Timken bearing (made in the USA, probably the LAST one you will ever need). I typically buy them from RockAuto (cheaper then getting it locally). I've replaced single hubs before. If you are worried, inspect the opposite one. I have also been burned by replace the louder one (thinking it was the ONLY one) and then finding both were bad.
Also, when doing a wheel hub, if you don't have the puller GM recommends, you best have that air hammer and a chissel bit (that's what I have always used). The front hub is pressed into the knuckle. I like to soak the bolts and mating surface of the hub with PB Blaster. When I remove the 3 bolts on the back, I break each loose and taken them out a little at a time (same as putting them in). I remove the top one last as many a time, I leave the bolt, socket and extention there (it can be a tight spot to get all that out and back due to the CV boot).
Using the air hammer with a chissel bit, you can force the thing between the hub and knuckle and work your way around.
If you don't have the puller OR the air chisel, forget it. You will work yourself to death trying to pound that hub out.
These days I can typically do a W-Body front hub in 1 hour (that includes getting the tools and putting them away).
BTW - Someone on MCF posted a YouTube video of doing a w-body wheel hub, that video really screws the Internet crowd, the guy never shows how he losened the hub from the knuckle (leaving the viewer to think he removed it with his bare hands).
Ok then.. With all the info (I don't mind how long it is, it's just more info I needed..). It sounds as if I can not do this on my own, I'm a tad bit handi capped, got 4 herniated disks in my back and can't bend one of my legs because of 12-15 knee operations and 4 total knee replacements, so it appears it will have to be done at a shop. Has anyone had any luck as far as pricing on wheel earrings and struts as in a place like "Midas Muffler, or any other brick n motor store? Thanks a ton.. Mjclemm...
#8
06-19-2012, 11:44 AM
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mentor, Ohio
Posts: 12,163
Sorry, I've never priced the labor of the job. I have done these myself. I've seen the hubs for the part can cost from $70-$200 I believe. I promote Timken as it's not cheap Chinese crap (I think AutoZone by me wants like $120 for a Timken and they are the only local shop to stock them, shipped from RockAuto, about $100).
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