I like the tire-under-car idea... I'm constantly plagued by images of being smashed under car... I use jack stands and wheel blocks, but... (active imagination)

 

IMO this is unnecessary, especially if the OP is trying to do it in 'record time' as he says. If you need more clearance around the filter for your type of wrench- just turn the wheels hard right. I use one of those slip over the bottom (like a large socket) ones that you turn with a regular 3/8" ratchet so clearance is no issue.

x2. All I do is undo the filter until the oil starts to drain out of the housing down the side of the filter- let it sit for a minute or so until the dripping almost stops, and then take it the rest of the way off. As long as you don't dump the filter over, there isn't really much drippage.

 

So I constructed a set of ramps myself based on some plans I found online using 2x10's. These are REALLY heavy, and one of mine warped quite a bit so not sure I'd recommend that. I always had clearance issues with store bought ramps in the past (like 25 years ago I'll admit) so I thought the 2x10 method would work. You definitely need some extra room under there to work though. I thought of pulling the wheel myself once I noticed while rotating tires how accessible the filter was, but I've never done it. I use a cut off 2 liter soda bottle that I hold up there while I unscrew the filter and let it drop into the bottle. I like the nail idea too. Last time I changed the oil I made one heck of a mess. Took a half roll of paper towels to clean off the control arm and mop up what spilled out onto the concrete driveway. Here's a tip for cleaning up oil spilled on concrete - Dawn dish liquid, Dawn Ultra if you can get it. Dump some on, let it soak in, and leave it there until it rains. Works like a champ. My plug (2004 3800) is 15mm as well. Take your time - don't want to strip anything, either the filter or the plug. Speaking of which I had a hell of a time getting a Mobil 1 filter on the car last time. I usually use NAPA Gold, but got the M-1 on sale with the oil. I can knock these out in about 20 minutes now, but the first couple were more like 45 mins. I can still be out there a half hour if I run into something like the M-1 filter issue.

 

I've actually never used a wrench on the filter, at least not to put one on. I have had to use a wrench to take off ones shops have put on before. I go with the modified pliers type. Now that I've gotten the hang doing these myself I don't need one to take off a filter that I put on either. I'm not saying they are loose by any means - they stay perfectly attached and zero leakage, but I'm still able to get them off after 5K miles by hand. With a rubber gasket between the metal components, it will compress enough while tightening solidly by hand to ensure a reliable contact and grip without a lot of torque applied.

 

Unnecessary maybe. Easier for me, sure. I'm already rotating the tires anyway half the time

 

Something I think we ALL missed when doing an oil change.... Ensure the old rubber gasket from the old filter came off with the filter (else, you'll have a nasty oil leak later). Also, it's good practice to get a dab of oil on your finger tip and lube the rubber seal of the new filter (helps prevent it from sticking on the next removal).

Lastly, I like to pre-fill the oil filter with oil. If the filter sits perfectly vertical, you can fill it almost all the way, other wise, if it's at an angle, guestimate how much oil can go in without it spilling during installation.

I've done this help ensure that when I start the engine for the first time it has an uninterupted flow of oil. It may be crazy or excessive, but my '94 Grand Am has about 210,000 miles and the drivetrain still runs like new.

 

x2 on this...