Background, I have a 2002 SS, I top swapped it, a ZZP tune as well as a their map harness and injector converter wires. I was on my home from work (20 min drive) I stopped at the gas station down the street from my place. I went in, came out, went to start the car and no crank followed by smoke coming from the hood on the passenger side. Upon looking at what was wrong i found that the crank relay wire from behind the fuse box that leads to the positive I-lid terminal on fuse box burnt. after trying a quick fix on the wire to get the car running (new wire on the i-lid to the crank relay) only lead to the wire burning again till we got nothing.

A tow and a day later i looked at the car and unplugged the harness to the engine and the other one at the fuse-box and found what looks like the crank wire (+) is burnt at every terminal as well.
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so my game plan to fix the chariot and the easiest way to me would be to get a new harness and just put that in. Since the top swap was installed with adapters and not spliced in it's just as easy as unplugging a couple of injector cables which i gotta do anyway and plugging the new harness in.
i also needed new ground and positive wires mine were cut up from my super charger belt and idler.

so a couple of junkyard trips later before and after christmas i got the engine harness from a Monte Carlo that got wrecked. All the fuse boxes from Monte's that had fog lights were cut so i went to the next best option an impala. I found one with fog lights but the only difference was it had the a.i.r. relay and plug on the driver side of the harness mine car didn't.

now my 1st question, Since the wiring on the fuse box has that a.i.r. relay is there a change in the fuse box and the plugs pin out that go to both the engine harness and the one that's by the strut tower. (Plugs shown above )
Also are the impala and the monte pinout the same on between them.

I install the harness and the fuse box and so far everything was okay till i went to start the car. I turn the key to ON and all the lights come on even the radio is back working but i didnt hear the fuel pump engage and when i hit IGN nothing.

So I go into mechanic mode test all the connections. There tight, no corrosion, grounds on the frame and the tranny bell housing tight but still no crank. I have had 2 batteries tested,2 starters and have even jumped the starter with a jumper cable on my battery (+) and it on the 8mm (+) source wire while installed and they both worked still no crank on key turn.

my next thing is to check the ignition cylinder and when i take my dash off oh what a surprise I found. Its a excaliber rs 340 edp car starter sitting on top of my steering wheel Its spliced into my ignition, lights, obd, bcm, trunk, doors. I don't have the fob for it i and didn't know it was there but i don't think its the issue tho. when the car is in the on position, it only flashes service vehicle soon, battery, and will flash security if i press the valet button on the rs 340.

so a hour later picking at the remote starter I can see who ever installed it did a good job. They did a good splice and didn't cut wires, I also was able to remove all the wires and not have to cut either. But with all that removed now i have a security light on that's not going any where after relearn and still no crank or fuel pump.

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2nd Question, what wires on the ignition switch would allow me to put a 12v + and test the ignition wires to see if its making to the starter? also the fuel pump? Is there a diagram on the internet Im not finding that shows the pin out to the ignition switch harness?

even though the security light is on I'm still doubting its the cause. I looked at youtube videos about the vats and the yellow and black wire bypass. I cut the yellow wire to test the ohms and turn the car on the security light went from on to battery, flash of security light 3 times, low fuel, service vehicle soon, battery, flash ... I put the wire yellow wire back and left on for ten min then it stopped and stop flashing it went back to just the security once.

I have also took apart the ignition switch in the back and cleaned the contacts they were not dirty or really burned i got every thing off by just rubbing it or my finger nail.

if anyone knows anything that can help im all ears

 

You got a good one here man, but everything you say here, especially the flashing security light leads me to believe the root of the problem is in the VAT system. Somewhere the code is not being relayed throught the serial data link between the chip in the ignition lock cylinder, BCM and PCM. Lack of the fuel pump and ignition confirms this. I had the same problem after a transmission swap until I figured out I had a ground cable landed wrong. Had it connected to the starter instead of the stud on the bell housing. Check those grounds.
The harness for Impala's and Monte's of the same year and engine are the same. As I recall, the A.I.R. relay in the engine compartment fuse box is open, so that should not be an issue.
Here's some schematics and guides from the factory service manual that might help:

 

thank you sir going to check now

 

that ground your talking about isnt that orange and black wire is it

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i have two grounds one from the (-) battery itself and a double black and black white wire single i-lid to the bell housing

my positives to teh starter would be that orange and black and the (+) battery to the 13mm terminal and that purple to the 8mm

 

Yup, that's correct. The double black and white is the one I had wrong. You might want to check continuity on those.

 

so its been awhile since i have been able to work on the car or been on here. the cars been sitting well over a year and a half so this is where I am.


new starter (autozone) installed

bcm (rockauto) installed

ignition switch (autozone) installed

fuel pump (rockauto)

0 guage ground to replace stock ground



so after changing almost everything to do with the starting system. I am able to jump the crank relay under the hood and the starter will crank the car. as well as jump the fuel pump relay and it pumps fuel. I disconnected the fuel line and visually saw the gas flow out which is why i haven't put in the new fuel pump. I'm still unable to get the car to crank by key and start which is when i replaced the bcm I spent countless times doing the relearn got nowhere.


spent time reading watchin more vids and started doing voltage tests everywhere. I've found that my driver side fuse box inside the car has low voltage on the pcm (crank) 10A fuse.
1-1.5v at key on
2.02 v at key start






so of course i replaced the fuse box and still 2v is showing on crank. So now we have to start tracing wires I used the diagram Plumbob gave that showed it was a ppl wire from fuse box to ground but im no electronics major and i couldn't tell what side of the fuse box to start on.







again any help much appreciated

 

I have the same issue with car not starting with key , so I feel for you. I have gotten help from Plumbob, The Maniac, and Zippy02 and his connections .We have done a lot of the same tracing of wires , here's what I have learned, From the key power goes to the BCM where it verifies all systems are good (PCM) & (VAT) being the worst enemy. From there the PCM send ground to the crank relay which starts the car. Your obviously getting signal from the switch to the BCM as you verified that at the fuse I would guess something is up with the BCM as it somehow controls the fuel relay also. I will check the diagrams Plumbob provided when I get home and see if I have any others. Good luck

 

I'm on the edge of My Seat !

I know the Ignition Switch did killed the BCM with the Torque Wrench in the Library.. but I have to see the Rest !

This is such a great example and the begining of a wealth of information that I really wanted to jump in and give my two cents but.... Where is it at now ? What happened ? Gotta know... Was it a Computer that wasn't flashed with VIN.. also tell them yoit Injrctor Size , Cam, Swap, etc.. and to DELETE THE VATS for the fun of it.. If you go that route...
Or was it a Loose Ground... A Mouse in the Throttle body... an Interior screw through a wire making random grounds...
I gotta know...
Please Update ! Then I can say Well... You shoulda coulda... j/k... but Hind Sight is 20/20 sadly not aleays with cars but there Is A Path to follow..