(previous member) Sorry it'slong. Thanks for any help. Going to give as much info I can(Codes varied),In the last year (replaced): Battery, Fuel pump (&sensor), PCV, Plugs/wires, Alternator, Battery again, MassAF, ECM. and more im sure. It passed 20 years and is showing it's ****. Crankshaft Position Sensor is next. Driving down the road, bitch just shuts off and leaves me in busy intersection AGAIN. I WISH I could afford a new car. I can't. So it just sits for months until I can kill and move on to hunting the next gremlin. Can't sell it for half of what I've got in it. Parked right now. Can't afford to pay mechanic by hour to keep chasing problems. Disabled old woman.... any bright ideas on something that is being overlooked? I now hate my car. But I'm stuck. I may just park it and charge admission for people to beat it or shoot it..

 

. Driving down the road, bitch just shuts off and leaves me in busy intersection AGAIN. I t..[/QUOTE]

* A friend of mine had a similar issue and he found a pare wire touching the exhaust somewhere under the fire wall.

* Sometimes a Vacuum leak will kill the car too the big culprit is the one that goes to the brake booster. if that comes off it will die right there.

* Then Grounds are a big issue too. if your ground is dirty at the battery or has a loose connection to the starter, alternator or any other part it will kill the car too.

* When you turn the key on can you hear the fuel pump engage in the tank kind of a buzz?
It is most likely a little thing that creates a big thing.

 

I hate to say it, but we'll just be shooting in the dark trying to guess. IMO what needs to happen is for a mechanic to hook up a scan tool with a logging function to drive it until it happens so they can look at the data to figure out what went wrong by reviewing the logged data. From there they can either isolate the component or the system for further diagnostic to find the component.

I know you said you can't afford that, but I hate for us all to just give best guesses to have you keep wasting money replacing parts that may or may not be bad (shotgun approach) - especially since it looks like you've already had a lot of that with all thats been replaced.

In theory you could buy a scan tool like that and try to diy figure it out, I'm just not sure how comfortable you'd be trying to learn what all of the data means or if your mechanic would work with you to log the right parameters / use data you supply for their diagnostic.


I will say I had a somewhat similar situation on our GP. We had a mechanical MAF failure on the original sensor (wire broke out of nowhere) and I put in a new cheapo parts store MAF. Seemed to run great but would occasionally randomly stall for no good reason. Found out by logging data that the MAF would occasionally freak out and drop to zero then back to normal (which often killed the engine before it recovered). As all the wiring on that circuit checked out good, I went to a new OEM MAF and the problem was solved.

Hard part is there are quite a few things that can cause a similar end result and without seeing what the data does when it happens, its hard to make an educated guess.

 

We were having the same issue with our 2001 Monte SS, we call it The Red Devil it was bought at a used car lot and I was convinced it was under water at some point. That wasn’t the case. Red Devil is running GREAT now and I wish I could give you one sure thing that would fix your problem but I can’t. I can tell you what we did in addition to everything you listed before the problem stopped.
Replaced crankshaft position sensor
Cleaned throttle body thoroughly with throttle body cleaner, we used CRC
Air intake duct would not stay connected to air cleaner assembly, found a broken motor mount which allowed the motor to rock more than than it should replaced that and it still kept coming off, replaced clamp, tried adding a rubber piece onto the air cleaner assembled, seated it all the way and still would work its way off so it now has a couple of rivets in it.
Also found the wiring harness that runs where the throttle body connects the upper intake manifold rubbed a hole in the upper intake manifold.

We thought it was possessed. It would run fine for a while then check engine and just shutting off. Codes, codes and more codes. I found if I put it in neutral right when it happens it would usually start right back up. Hope this helps.

Where the wiring harness rubbed a hole in the intake manifold.