Woohoo it is fixed! Turns out when they installed the plugs back they cracked the ceramic on one of them and now it runs good,only issue is a oil leak from a sensor on the right hand side of the oil filter ,thinking its a knock or oil pressure sensor maybe,that must have got damaged during them repairing it,and it running slightly warmer than usual but will change the t-stat and add more anti-freeze.Thanks to all who helped me thru this issue

 

The oil leak you are mentioning.... If it's front of the engine, above the starter, but below the valve cover, this sounds like the oil presser sensor/switch (depending on how your car is equipped). Easy way to find if that is the source, disconnect the wire from it, get a mirror, angle the mirror at the sensor plug, make sure you are clear of the belt/fan (anything that could snag your clothing). Have someone start the car. If that part if bad, oil normally seeps/sprays from the plug on the sensor.

I've changed a few of those. Takes a special "oil pressure socket". About 5 minutes to change and a $10 part.

 

Congrats on the easy fix

 

Just a update,the car has been spiking in on the temp gauge once you stop at a redlight or anything and pressure is building in the hoses.I took the radiator cap off with the car running and did not see any bubbles but going to have it checked,its been suggested that a head gasket is blown or pinched and is causing these issues.We changed the thermostat and the temp sending sensor to no avail.I guess its possible to get a bad headgasket at autozone but the head gasket set was 162.00 so figured it was a decent set,but will keep you all updated as i find out more.

 

If it comes down to the head gasket, it could be a matter of them not being properly torqued down. But I don't yet hear symptoms pointing to a head gasket (I think it's premature to draw that conclusion).

Important question, does the temp guage ever go back DOWN or does it just go up and stay up until you stop the car for a while?
Also, while it's supposedly overheating, if you turn the heater on full blast, do you have hot/warm air coming out (or is it just ambient outside temperature air)?

Also, with the engine running (and the guage claiming it's over heating), carefully and slowly open the bleeder valve (should be on the t-stat housing). This could be as simple as an air pocket circulating in the system (and when the car is sitting, the water pump does not circulate coolant as fast, so the air pocket may just be "sitting" near the temp sensor too long).

 

On the temp going back down yes it will once you get the car into motion and drive but climbs at stops,ect.

Yes the heat is very hot that blows out on full blast.

I am going to bleed it while its hot like you suggested and see if that helps any,also may buy some flush and do a complete cooling flush on it and change the cap.I love this car but when it rains it pours least with my luck but you guys are the greatest on helping!.

 

The fact your blower is giving you constant warm/hot air is good (at least from my experience). A good flush and proper bleeding sounds like a great step to take. Not 100% sure it's worth changing the radiator cap, you may want to see if a shop could pressure test it before hand....

Keep us updated and GOOD LUCK!!

 

just a small update but i waited till the temp was about 3/4 of the way up on the gauge and bled both of the bleeders one on t-stat and on off top of the water pump and both have anti freeze come out and i shut it,let it cool checked water and repeated no change when it is stopped.I did notice the fans never did kick on but the upper and lower radiator hoses had alot of pressure in them,could not sqeeze them and felt bulged up.

Going to flush the radiator out this weekend and see what i can do with it.