Balance Shaft
OK your doing this in a 5th gen so I don't know about any clearance issues for headers. To use a gen v all you have to do is buy the gen v to l67 throttle body adapter plate from Zzp. Keep in mind to use the gen v you need the gen v lower intake and a gen v intercooler because the gen 3 stuff won't work. In all honesty I suggest just buying a gen v top swap used on the forums and top swap your existing engine.
welcome man, im glad i could offer some help. keep us posted on your build and even make a "build thread" if you want so we can all follow your build
Just remove the balance shaft gear to disable and you're done. I agree with leaving it in the motor, only way I'd remove it is if the motor was being rebuilt and you had the opportunity to drill/tap the feed with the rear cover off.
I ran the LS6 (now LS3/LS9) valve springs on an XP cam for several years, zero issues, no need to go overboard on the valve springs. They'll also be easier on the lifters, rocker arm trunions and valves.
Have the Rollmaster crank gear machined in back to match the stock gear as turbo mentions. Check the clearance from the #1 main cap to the chain teeth, you want it to match the stock gear. Then hold a straight edge from crank gear fully seated to the camshaft with cam gear installed, ensure the cam isn't pulled all the way forward for the gears to line up. If the back of the crank gear is machined, you'll have clearance from the oil pump cover, no need to get the machined cover, that's only to compensate for the actual issue of the crank gear not being machined correctly. Cam gear clearance issues only result when the cam gear, sitting too far away from the block, pulls the camshaft forward out of the block and touches the front cover (I've seen the cam retainer plate crack as well); again with the crank gear machined properly, no need to double gasket the front cover, just use an OEM paper gasket, the FelPro gasket is metal and thinner than the factory paper.
HTH
I ran the LS6 (now LS3/LS9) valve springs on an XP cam for several years, zero issues, no need to go overboard on the valve springs. They'll also be easier on the lifters, rocker arm trunions and valves.
Have the Rollmaster crank gear machined in back to match the stock gear as turbo mentions. Check the clearance from the #1 main cap to the chain teeth, you want it to match the stock gear. Then hold a straight edge from crank gear fully seated to the camshaft with cam gear installed, ensure the cam isn't pulled all the way forward for the gears to line up. If the back of the crank gear is machined, you'll have clearance from the oil pump cover, no need to get the machined cover, that's only to compensate for the actual issue of the crank gear not being machined correctly. Cam gear clearance issues only result when the cam gear, sitting too far away from the block, pulls the camshaft forward out of the block and touches the front cover (I've seen the cam retainer plate crack as well); again with the crank gear machined properly, no need to double gasket the front cover, just use an OEM paper gasket, the FelPro gasket is metal and thinner than the factory paper.
HTH
i TOTALLY agree witht the clearance on the firewall...that is one reason why i am putting zzp's 1" shorter dog bones, along with a little bit of axle bind that i have been experiencing when i lowered the car...i had the same thing on my lumina, when i lowered it, but i never put the shorter dog bones in, because i had the lq1 engine...
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01blackmonte
General Monte Carlo Talk
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Oct 17, 2005 07:30 PM















