I am in the process of replacing the ignition switch. After I removed the locking cylinder from the ignition switch I accidently turned it from the on position to off. Now the key will not turn, and I can't put it back in the switch because it has to be in the on position to replace. Anyone know how to fix this other than a new locking cylinder and key?

 

I have messed with these ignition switches and I wish I could offer some advice, but I have not worked with them enough to remember them well enough....
SO I am bumping this thread for more exposure.

 

I have assumed that the cylinder is bad and ordered a new one. I cannot see any reason that it won't turn. Not sure why it decided to go bad at this exact time.

 

Well I got the lock to turn by squirting WD-40 in it putting it on the vice and tapping it all over, still would not turn. Removed it from the vice, shook the ____ out of it and tried to turn the key in a vibrating fashion. Wala! It turned. Turned it back to off, and again it would not turn. Did the shake, vibrating turn key thing, and after a while it turned. I have taken the lock apart now, and don't see what is stopping it. I assume it is worn out and I will replace it. I am going to try and rekey the new lock to my old key if possible.

 

I have heard of the key wearing out.... Perhaps that is what is really happening. I believe a dealer can re-make the key from data GM has stored but requires proof of ownership. Just a thought.

 

I thought of this as well, so I tried my spare key that very is very seldom used, no change. For whatever reason two of the tumblers got stuck. I had to destroy them to get them out. I was going to rekey the new cylinder I purchased to the old keys, but could not do this since the new one did not have some of the old tumblers. Naturally the ones it did not have were the ones I had to destroy. So I now have two keys on my ring. Not the best thing, but I can live with it. I don't have all of it back together yet. I decided to fix my instrument lights since I had the dash removed and could get to it. I am now waiting on some bulbs I have ordered to fix it with. These bulbs are part of the printed circuit board and are soldered in place. I miss the days of reaching under the dash and just replacing a bulb.

 

Well I still have problems. I had a few codes that I could not correct, so I purchased another started switch. This time I purchased a GM switch, and all of the trouble codes cleared. This is great but I still do not have any trouble lights. Everything else works fine. What does not light up are the seat belts, engine, abs, etc. All of the trouble lights do not work. Now I did remove the instrument panel and replace the bulbs that light it up when the head lights were on. Now I did try to test the other bulbs with my 12 volt power supply and now if them would light up, however they all work now except for trouble lights. I am at a loss which way to go now. Any help would be appreciated.

 

If I understand you correctly, everything with the car is now working except the various indicator lights on the instrument cluster are not working (but the displays and gauges work)? They don't even do a basic power on test when you start the car? And you are not getting any trouble codes?

 

You have that exactly correct. I have assumed messed up the instrument panel by testing the warning bulbs with 12 volts. So I have ordered a rebuilt panel from e-bay. Hope I did not waste money.

 

Well all is now repaired except for putting the plastic back in place. The new instrument panel corrected the warning light problem. I have learned a few things along the way I would like to share with everyone. This all started with the car now starting when I turned the switch. This was caused by a bad starter switch. I replaced it with an aftermarket switch which did not work properly and caused me all kinds of problems. I replaced the after market with a GM switch, and those problems went away. Now for the other problems. Why the key decided not to turn after I removed it, will never be known. It just decided to wear out at that moment to drive me nuts. I wish I had replaced it with an expensive GM switch so I could have rekeyed it to my original. Yes I could replace it with GM switch now, but everything is working, and I am not going to touch anything that ain't broke. As for the warning light not working, I have to assume I killed them by putting 12 volts on them to test and see if they were working. Do not do as I did, or you will be buying another panel as I did. I removed the panel to fix two bulbs that were not working that light up the panel. There are 7 of them in the panel. Don't waste your money buying the blue bulbs as I did. They are too dark and you can't see anything. So if you want to fix the lights, it can be done, and you can test them, but you better know which bulb is which, or send the panel out to someone that knows what they are doing. Well that is the end of this mess.