There's nothing that points directly to a dead battery. All of this occurs while the car is running, when the battery doesn't do much of anything. I'd wager that his battery is just fine.

 

ive talked to several different quality installers that have been in the buisiness for the past 15-20 years. they have all aggreed on one thing and that is to match you speakers/subs with the output of your amps.
all i can do is pass knowlage that i have picked up. maybe you have a different opinion, but whats the point of having pretty nice subs and using a little tikes amp to power them. why wouldnt you match them up b4 you buy.

the guys problem is that his installer messed up his gains, put too little power to the subs and tryd to push them to there limits with no power. or they heard the distorion and didnt care.

Or he bought used subs that were abused, who knows.

im going to let you in on a little secret, most installers that have been in the industry for years dont hear the same way a 20 year old does.
not because of the heavy bass blowing there ear drums, but because someone over 30 does not hear the same frequencies as a 16 year old kid.
to each his own. do some research, find a friend, and spend a saturday or two messing with the gains.

GL

 

This one isn't an opinion subject. You really can't hurt a sub by underpower it as long as you're not running the amp into clipping. Moreso, if it's WAY underpowered, you could even run the amp into clipping without hurting the sub. Their power rating is the thermal capability of the sub, so if you don't exceed that, nothing gets hurt.

I do agree 100% though that matching all of your components appropriately is smart. You're absolutely right that buying high end subs and then running a 200 watta amp on them is just dumb. I'm simply saying that the underpowering them does no harm to system.

 

I appreciate all the input and i found another installer whos going to go through it with me... lol and about the gain its less than half way up... (Already did the whole boom boom till my trunk falls off ) so its not hitting to hard just enough to hear it good in the car not so much outside. About the windows i did find that thread about why they do that so im good on that aspect. Battery i got test yesterday and alternator.... BOTH passed. So i think im just drawing to much from the amp... or possibly how it was installed. Im running a Jensen fold out touch screen... a 500watt Fosgate Prime amp and two ultra linear twelves with dual voice coils... (Cheapy's im borrowing for right this sec) But i will be running two MB Quart 2ohm twelves that have a higher rms than what my amp puts out so i wont be blowing them. Defroster still pulling A LOT when im parked even with system disconnected from Aux. Thats where they ran the power wire... said it was better even though im used to wiring it directly to the battery. Also the wiring for the amp is a 4 gauge wire.

 

X2 i ran my Fi audio Q on half the recommend power for 4months becuase in order to beef my amp up i had to beef the whole electrical system. i never had any problems i now got the electrical beffed and new amp and sub still pounds like a tank. it never took any damage


MonteNoob

The rear defroster is super power hungry in every car.

Seriously do the big 3.
your car is a giant circuit. the power runs from your alt to your battery to your system to the ground and back through the alternators ground. its a giant circle. now 3/4s of your circuit are wired with 4 guage wire right? well theres still the 1/4 of your circuit thats ran with stock wires. (its like 8 gauge or something) your circuits gauge is only as good as its smallest wire so your 4 gauge wire right now means nothing. by upgrading the big 3 you now have the whole circuit run at 4 gauge which allows the power to flow. everything is better when you do the big 3, more electricity can flow. your battery charges better, your lights dont dim as much, food tastes better, women look hotter, and grandma looks younger

 

everything is better when you do the big 3, more electricity can flow. your battery charges better, your lights dont dim as much, food tastes better, women look hotter, and grandma looks younger[/QUOTE]

Omg.. Man i was in mid swallow tryin to munch some food when i read this you almost killed me... LOL Right on well i appreciate the impute from everyone and i am doin the big three also goin to upgrade to a 120 amp alt instead of the 105 amp i currently just due to future plans!

 

If you're upgrading alternators, consider a bigger step up. Look at Iraggi alternators on eBay, for example. Their alternators do 80-100+ amps at idle, which is around five times the output of a stocker. Not knowing what 120 amp alternator you're looking at, I would guess it's not much of an upgrade.

 

Just a simple one from bosch... but that all depends on how the "Big 3 " works out... any suggestions on gauge i was thinking at least 2/0 so i have room for future mods.... or will 4 gauge work just as well?

 

montenoob, if you know you are going to upgrade later, just upgrade the wires now.

 

How big are you planning on going? 2/0 is pretty frickin big wire lol, and if you're going to run a system that needs a 2/0 gauge power wire, a 120 amp alternator won't make much sense because it won't come close to keeping up. I would imagine 1/0 gauge would be enough for future upgrades, but I could be wrong since I don't know what you have planned. The general rule, though, is to run the same size or larger for the big 3 as your main power wire.