Dynamat Trunk? Will it work?

Reply Subscribe

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

Jun 2, 2012 | 07:51 PM

#11

Milhouse

Joined: Oct 2010

Posts: 654

Quote:

Originally Posted by JayTee716

Can anyone who has subs let me know please how they addressed the trunk rattle? Mine rattles right along the rear window; mostly at the corners.

Sound dampening material is a very good idea, when applied right it helps noticeably. What I did on mine was much more than applying deadener....First I sprayed Great Stuff expanding foam in all the open cavities of the trunk lid and let that dry up. Just make sure to use the regular stuff. Same goes for all the open cavities just behind the rear bumper. After that dried I cut away the excess and laid down a couple layers of Second Skin Damplifier Pro on the trunk lid, the whole trunk floor (including the whole spare tire area) and as much of the inner quarter panel skins as possible. I also hit the area behind the bumper with a couple layers too. The last area that gave me fits for a long time was the rear bumper cover....that thing rattles like no tomorrow! Well, it USED TO. Using the Great Stuff expanding foam again, I sprayed as much as possible under the cover, sticking the nozzle inside of it through the openings for the license plate lights. That did the trick!! Now my car hardly rattles at max volume, and even when it does rattle it's a very muted rattle.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gr4v3_7

Dynamat does work, however the name brand stuff is very expensive. I personally used Stingers 'Roadkill' in my Cutlass when I had it, and you could tell a difference once it was installed. You can look on Ebay and look for some cheaper stuff, it all works the same. I dont know about shops by you, but around me, shops will specifically just do certain spots to stop the rattling without having to do the whole trunk, just a suggestion if you wanted to ask stereo shops if they will do that.

When it comes to deadener, you definitely get what you pay for. Not all deadener is created equal. The type of adhesive material, thickness of it and the foil backing, not to mention the flexability of it all greatly vary from product to product. IMO, Dynamat, SecondSkin and Stinger Roadkill are the cream of the crop. I'd def steer clear of having a shop do this, it's super easy to do, just takes time. Shops will charge you premium bucks for the job but give you bargain coverage.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JayTee716

Yeah, I'll see if they can just do where it rattles, but the more I think about I might just have a box made to fire the subs into the cabin. I thought for sure 2 -12's could be heard from outside, but it is not really loud. I don't know, I'm going to see what I should do.

Why are you so concerned about how it sounds outside the car? If you do fire forward, make sure to have the trunk and rear deck sealed off, otherwise it won't sound good.

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Black Machine 29

i have a ported box and i think compared to a sealed that it sends more bass into the inside of the car.. and takes some of the outside noise away but my trunk still rattles

A ported box gives you less rattle? Can't say I ever heard that one before. With more air displacement with a ported box, you'll def get more rattle with that type, given you're firing your subs and port toward the bumper.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gr4v3_7

Dont have the front of the subwoofer point into the car, have it point out (with the magnets towards the interior) you gain a few db's when the noise reflects off of the trunk. Dynamat increases this. It allows more noise to be reflected into the car, instead of losing some of it going outside. And as DESS03 said, make sure to do EVERY part of the trunk, wheel wells, under carpet, everything. In my cutlass, there was a extra piece of protection under the carpeting to protect from heat from the exause, I pulled up that additional protection and then layed down the dynamat and then put that protection back over. Ported boxed generally are louder, I had a sealed and I could be heard outside my car easily. What do you got in your trunk?

It's actually louder if your fire port and sub forward IF YOUR TRUNK AND REAR DECK ARE SEALED OFF. But if not, firing back is the way to go. Deadener in some cases can cause you to lose db, just saying.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joby45

I have two JL 12W7's pushing around 900 watts consistently, in a 4 cu ft double ported box. My trunk rattle is immense. I'm about to move up to a single 15" Fi BL with a crescendo BC 2000 pushing around 2000 watts. I'll also do a Big 3 upgrade and a battery in the trunk. I think trying to stop the rattle would almost be aimless in mine. Help.

Nah, not really, you just gotta know what to do.

Jun 2, 2012 | 09:07 PM

#12

ZIPPY02

Monte Of The Month -- May 2012
Monte Of The Year 2012
Monte Of The Month -- February 2017

Joined: Jan 2008

Posts: 4,943

From: Mountains of Utah

Dynamatted the whole trunk, door panels, removed all carpet and did floor pans. Do not notice much of any rattles, but then I only have 1 sub. Have a single Massive Audio 10CW pointed into my cabin, sounds good to my OLD ears. LOL

Jun 2, 2012 | 09:14 PM

#13

ZIPPY02

Monte Of The Month -- May 2012
Monte Of The Year 2012
Monte Of The Month -- February 2017

Joined: Jan 2008

Posts: 4,943

From: Mountains of Utah

Milhouse Rules, he's the go to Audio guru here on the forum. Just my opinion, have read many of his comments before. ALL HAIL MILHOUSE!! Noy being a wise *** either, I'm serious. Wish he lived close to me before I did my Monte's audio...