This is because chichi's pcm is tuned for the fan turn on points to kick in at 180* to match his thermostat. Stock fan turn on points are 212*, which is about halfway on the gauge.
While moving, air is flowing across the radiator no matter what the ect. When you're stopped you're not getting airflow across the radiator until your ect's hit 212* with a stock pcm, but they'll kick on at 180* if the pcm is set to.

Not necessarily.
Lower ECT's are going to cause the pcm to command a richer air/fuel mixture. Running rich generally leads to a loss in power, not an increase in power. The only time that a lower temp thermostat would be advantageous is if you are risking KR with a higher temp thermostat. On a mostly stock n/a engine, I wouldn't really bother with a lower temp thermostat...as the pcm commanding a rich a/f ratio is going to decrease your gas mileage as well.

Also, in regards to cooler air: Running your coolant 15* cooler isn't necessarily going to decrease your underhood temps either.

Hey now, that's just mean

 

That's where I lived for about 10 years! North Philly and South West Philly. It can be a very rough town. But I had nothing but fun while I lived there. I might move back if things go south here in Oklahoma.

 

Yup, that's totally correct. I haven't mess with mine yet but, once I do the mods I've planned for the car, it'll get tuned as well but won't go as low as 180* in the winter.

 

you think ill really notice a difference in winter? i drive 4 miles to school, and next year ill be living at school

 

i got a 180, temp goes to the first line after 1/4 way up and stays there. never moves lol. dont really need my heat too much here in S.F. dont have snow just cold mornings but thats why i have a butt heater. it honestly doesnt really effect my heater too much, but then again i dont really use it, just my defrost, and it still works great.

 

IMHO, it's a waste of money on an N/A car, as the stock exhaust will support 400hp. It WILL make the exhaust SLIGHTLY louder.

I myself would start with the OBVIOUS problems, that being the highly restrictive airbox and the u-bend in the exhaust. Install a fenderwell intake and a U-bend delete pipe, and save the rest for a top swap, and go from there.

$700 is a LOT of $$$ for ZERO performance gain.

 

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IMO you really can't compare heater performance in CA vs WI- its quite a different thing when its 0* outside and you've got a quarter inch of ice on the windshield.

 

im just saying, the heater in the car kicks in at 100 or whatever by the time i get to school my thermometer is at like a quarter of the way, it doesnt make it all the way, so im thinking in the summer its gonna be a decent gain

 

I spent the cash for Corsa cat back.....you know where that extra went

For 700...I think I would start with cai and go from there
....pretty stuff is cheaper than motor stuff...in my opinion

 

Wow...this thread got a lot more replies than I was expecting. I'd actually completely forgotten about the downpipe with u-bend delete. Thanks to everyone's suggestions I have a clearer idea of what I'm going to do to get a mild power gain and a better sound.

CAI, Downpipe (with U-bend delete), SLP Cat-back exhaust, 180* stat. Should be around $1,000 for all that, so I may have to wait longer to do the install, but I see a much more satisfied driver at the other end. Again, I thank everyone for their feedback.