I was reading the threat abotu 04SS specs and got to thinking and I wanted to pick everyone's brain.

I am not looking for crazy power (maybe 50hp or so more), and I am defintiely not looking to spend a bunch of money I don't have. Based on my driving habits I don't even NEED more power, but if I can get more mpg out of it too, then I can justify it.

I am probably going to throw in a K&N CAI, which they say adds about 13hp. What are some other easy, bolt-on mods that I can do without needing to get a scanner and worry about that sort of thing?

Spcifically,
Approximately how power much do MSD coils add - worth the money given my plans above?
Would the power log manifold (front only) help like they say it will, and woudl it be worth it?
Could I safely go any smaller on the pulley without having to worry about KR, etc? Come to think of it, what is the stock pulley size?
RocknSS04 - I saw in that thread you mentioned around a 50hp gain. What are the mods you have to get you there?

Please keep in mind that while I know my way around a car, and am fairly intelligent, I know NOTHING trying to get more HP our fo a car, nor about the things every says you need to be careful of (KR, etc.).

Thanks a lot everyone!

 

My thread here should give you an idea of where to start. The first thing you'll want is a cold air intake. The second is a downpipe (u-bend delete, high flow cat).

https://montecarloforum.com/m_59214/tm.htm

The stock pulley is 3.8".

 

1. CAI is the #1 install, but I'd probably do something different than a K&N if I had to do it again, as K&N is not a TRUE COLD air box, but I like the smooth tube it has, but too much underhood air. Added 2mpg!
2. U-bend delete pipe and/or high flow cat, but I have thrown (2) P0420 codes last week with my high flow cat.
3. MSD coils add ZERO hp? I installed them because I had a coil go bad on my '01, and I transfered them over when I got this '04. Factory units are EXCELLENT, but I ? cheap replacements.
4. I am considering adding the front only power log manifold, stainless, of course. Headers are better, but $$$$. Good feedback, and the 474hp GTP I seen at ZZP had them on.
5. DO NOT change your pulley without changing AT LEAST your plugs to colder ones, and a 180 deg thermostat, along with the CAI and U-bend delete pipe.
6. I also have a bored factory throttle body and spacer, 72mm. Better throttle response.
7. Colder plugs, either Autolite 104's or colder for performance, or NGK Iridium TR-6-IX for longer life.
8. With ALL these mods, you could probably get about 60 hp with a 3.3" pulley, 50 with 3.4 as I'm running, and getting an upgraded PCM to help pull it all together. This is the starting point.
I think I could go to a 3.3" pulley with the power log manifold. And smaller yet with the short stack intercooler. I'm after roller rockers, also. I'm trying to get ZZP's 2nd set of polished aluminum valve covers, and rollers & springs will go in if the covers come off!
Wayne
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2319272

 

Thanks for the help guys! This will be tremendous.

 

*********GET A SCAN TOOL OR FIND SOMEONE WHO HAS ONE!!!!! *********It doesn't matter which one, but this can't be stressed enough but before you do anything, get a scanner. Any pulley swapping you do can cause Knock Retard (KRor just knock) and you can damage your engine. Try to target 0 knock and you don't have to worry. You don't need to go gung-ho and get a DHP $400 scanner, a simple Palm LS1M for $150 or similar is fine. Making sure you don't blow up your engine is the name of the game here. Some people will say you can skip the scanner for now, but remember some cars are assembled at Friday around 5 PM while others are on Wednesday around 2. Since you don't know, play it safe and Be Prepared. Also always run 93+ octane gas.

The first and cheapest upgrade is the 3.5" pulley from ZZP, SLP, or a host of others. It costs between $50-$75 depending on quality, etc and will give your car about 20 HP increase. Bang for Buck this is the best upgrade to start with. If you don't have the scanner, go back and get that first then get this pulley, though only a small portion of people have had problems with their engines (like 2%) you don't want to be in this percentage and have a blown engine. If you plan to really mod your car, jump up and get a Modular Pulley System (MPS) to save tons of money and time as you do pulley upgrades and swaps in the future.

UPDATE! Bumpin96monte has informed me of cars with the stock 3.8" pulley reporting KR. Looking back I remember reading this somewhere as well. Going to a 3.5" will only amplify the problem so this reinforces the necessity for the Scan Tool. I would recommend getting a Cold Air Intake or Fender Well Intake and doing the U-Bend delete prior to doing the pulley drop. You can read more about that below.

Level 1 performance stuff is a 3.4" pulley with smaller belt, colder plugs, colder T-stat, Wizaired box, PCM and U-bend delete in the exhaust. This will drop you to about 14.0 in the 1/4 depending on traction (13.8-14.3). It will bring you from 240HP to ~285HP and make a large seat of the pants difference. No transmission upgrades are needed; reliability and gas mileage are not affected. To maximize the level 1 stuff, you can add a stage 1 throttle body, water pump underdrive pulley, and throttle body spacer. This would add another 10HP or so and give more consistent performance. The stage 1 throttle body improves throttle response so the 'feel' of the car is changed. If you get all the small stuff above you can run a 3.3" pulley with an aftermarket downpipe (the most cost effective way of doing this).

I think most people will agree with the above. I personally don't have a ton of cash on hand at any given time so I order pieces separately and upgrade slowly. For noticeable and safe changes, I recommend the following order:

Stage 1

Cold Air Intake (CAI) or Fender Well Intake (FWI) - actually the 2000+ Monte's have good airboxes and you could just use a K&N drop in filter, but I figure just get it out of the way. I like my Wizaired CAI from ZZP, but there are a bunch of other CAI's to consider from: SLP, K&N Air Charger, Thrasher, Motorsports Performance, etc; FWI include Speedbuilt, Intense's, JMB Performance, or the standard homemade kit which seems to be more popular.

U-Bend Delete - Either buy one online to weld in, have a muffler shop put a custom one in, or buy a kit right away with a High Flow Catalytic Converter / straitpipe and 3" downpipe.

3.4" pulley WITH Autolite 104 plugs (or similar) and 180* T-stat. You will want all three at once and it won't cost that much... about $100. Always have the supporting mods in place before doing a pulley drop and Scan, Scan, Scan.

PCM - doesn't matter which brand as this is different

 

Can't argue with Zoomer! That's WHY I went to ZZPerformance. His 3.8's are FAST!. He had a 2000 GTP turbo'd on the dyno at 474whp and still tuning last trip there. And it didn't have headers. It had power logs, and a blocked off M-90 box, with the turbo adapter kit.