These are just a few tips that I hope will make the job easier. First off, watch some of the videos on line how to do it, they are very good, but did not tell all. Before you start get a 7/32" swivel socket if you do not have one. If you don't know what that is. It looks like a universal joint for your ratchet but with a 7/32" socket on the end of it. You can do the job without it, but it is hard. Now after you have your tools together, the very first thing you want to do is remove the passenger seat. You will need a phillips screwdriver, a flat blade screwdriver and a t-50 male socket. Pry off the two front plastic covers in front by putting a little sideways pressure and lift on each side of each cover. Then remove the two covers in the back with the phillips. Then you can remove the two t-50 bolts. Don't worry about two o-rings. You don't need them in my opinion, I think they were something to speed assembly in the plant. Move the seat all the way forward if not already there, get the seat belt loose from it, lay the seat back and lift it up from the back and slide it backwards and lift the front out of the floor. Now you can take it out of the car. Get some pieces of scrap wood and level the floor up a little, lay some padding down and you are ready to lay on your back, feet in the back seat and head under the dash. When you remove the plastic cover under the dash there is a ****** push retainer in the lower left side they did not show in the video. My car is a 2002. Now the video is excellent for most of it. There is a metal bracket that holds the retainer for the wiring harness. It has two screws 7/32 holding it in place. Remove it, it will make removing the fan much easier. After you have the fan out you can see the resistor. Remove the front (closest to you) 7/32 screw completely. There is no other front bolt. The back left screw can be seen and needs to be loosened a turn or two. 7/32 swivel socket wanted here. You do not need to remove it. I did not loosen the back right bolt because I didn't find it, but no problem the hole is slotted on the resistor. Now pry the front side down a little. The resistor plate needs to come down enough (about 1/8 inch) to allow it to clear the small plastic bumps in it's way and slide towards you off of the back screw. You can now remove the resistor. After I got mine out I loosened the back right screw with a small open end wrench about 1/2 turn so I could get things back together. I don't know if you need to loosen kit or not, but I was tired of fighting things. Now just reinstall everything. My replacement resistor looked nothing like the old one, but the mounting bracket was the same, and it worked fine.