I tried to replicate my success earlier and get the engine to stay running at partial throttle, but now it wont run again. Even after redoing the passlock reset procedures. So I've decided to stop putting it off, and wire in the external range switch, also known as PNP, NSS, PRNDL switch, etc. I had some trouble finding the pinout for the NSS from an early 4T80e. I even asked Brandon Furches, and he didn't have one. I found these two pictures from a thread talking about 4L60e stuff. Since GM reuses a lot of components, and the conectors look identical, I decided to go off these diagrams. We'll see if it works once I install it.




The only hard thing to find were those pinout diagrams. Everything else I could need Brandon has made available.







The four pin connector has all the range switch signals, but the female connector that I had didnt have pins in it. It was just solid plastic. So I drilled out the four holes, and used butt connectors. The wires aren't connected to the grey connector, but it helps seperate them, and keep them from contacting. Other than those four wires, I believe I only need power and ground.

 

I wired up the NSS, and I'm charging up an old battery to test it. In order to test the car, I've been having to remove the battery, alternator, MAF sensor, and vacuum lines from my daily. Also, I don't know why I never bothered to check the spark plugs. They were all pitch black and the threads were wet. Covered in what I believe is gasoline. I may have flooded the engine when I was trying to diagnose it, or the plugs may be very old. Either way, I replaced them with some iridium plugs I had laying around. We'll see if that makes a difference next time I try to fire it up.

 

I installed the NSS, and it functions. Just a little poorly. I don't know if the signal wires are connected wrong, or the NSS got "out of alignment", is the best way I can describe it. When I run the trans through its gears, and look at the dash to see what gear the computer thinks its in, this is what I end up with.

P = R
R = D
N = 2
D = 1
3 = 3
2 = N
1 = P

 

Well, congrats on how far you have gotten so far. This one seems odd since its not in order but I know nothing about any of these transmissions so I can't help beyond agreeing that it seems like the wires are connected wrong. Do you have any way to check the output from your daily driver?

 

My daily has a 4T65e with an internal NSS, and I'm swapping in a 4T80e with an external switch. So all I have to go off of are wiring diagrams. But, I did hopefully find a solution to this. I swapped the wires around a bunch, and through trial and error, I got neutral to line up. So the trans is in neutral, and the computer displays neutral on the dash. I haven't tested it yet, but in theory, that should allow the NSS to function as it should. I'll just have to always start the car in neutral.

 

dang son some body damage :0

 

Yep, previous owner said they bought it that way as well. I could tell it was in a pretty serious accident, cause both side windows were smashed (found glass in the doors), in addition to all the body damage. But it doesnt need to look good. I'm basically tearing it up anyhow.

 

I didn’t assume it needed to look nice at all I bought one for five hundred a while ago so I get it I want to see more pictures of the damage because that picture doesn’t do justice but it’s up to you lmao

 

Here's those pictures.

 

I finally figured out what's been causing my problem of the engine not idling. I plugged in my scan tool and started the engine with the key. I held it at about 2000rpm, and noticed that the coolant temp sensor read a constant -38 degrees. No water was in contact with the sensor. So the computer was drowning the engine with fuel.
But while I was trying to bleed all the air out of the coolant system, the engine threw its serpentine belt. The issue with that was the AC compressor was only fasened with one nut to its bracket. Which in turn broke the AC compressor bracket. So, I haven't been able to finish bleeding the coolant system, because I'm having a hard time finding the right bracket at any part stores, or junkyards.
But of course another thing came up. I was walking down the driveway one day and saw red liquid running down one side. My temporary fix of a rubber plug and some RTV bit me in the *** and started leaking. So I pulled the pan, and welded a nut to it for a drain bolt. Whoever suggested that has earned the obligatory "I told ya so". I put the pan back on and reused the gasket, as it looked brand new.
But yet again, when I dropped the pan, there were some surprises. It appears that a chunk inside the trans, right above the drain, broke off. I'm not sure it will be a problem though. Since it was only in one corner, and doesn't appear to serve a role other than the one bolt in that corner. Other than that, the filters looked fine, and I cleaned out the pan.
Once I find the right AC compressor bracket, I should be able to bleed the coolant system, and finally take this thing for its first test drive.