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Hello everyone. It's time for me to officially start the thread for my turbo kit fabrication. I'm starting this off early, by just showing you all the welding setup that I'll be using. I probably cut a few corners here and there, and will probaly do so again later, by intention or not. But without futher ado, heres everything I got together to start teaching myself how to weld.
: 15$ (already really like this stuff, don't need to buy a bench grinder, makes a good taper but with a slightly balled end. I need more practice with it though.)
: 16$ (to use this I just cut a ~2.5ft section to connect the welder to the cylinder, used hose clamps to secure it at each end, the rest will be used later for back purging)
: 45$ (this cheap auto darkening mask may be a safety concern, but there are over a thousand good reviews, and I haven't found any issues with it. The auto darkening feature with the sensitivity cranked up responds immediately, and I feel safe using it.)
The welder I bought has only two settings: amperage, and post flow. Keep It Simple Stupid. A huge plus for me is that this welder does have high frequency start, so initiating a weld is as easy as literally pressing a button, which is mounted to the torch handle. No foot pedal here.
I like this cart, it keeps all my welding equipment in one movable location.
The left output goes to the welder, and you can see the hose clamp used to secure it. The right output will be used later for back purging when I go to make the turbo manifold.
Here's the tungsten I used to weld in the following pictures, sharpened with the cemical sharpener. I do need more practice to get a more uniform point. Additionally, using the chemical sharpener requires the electrode to be cleaned afterward. I did so with a wire brush and isopropyl alcohol on a shop towel.
Oops, need to figure out how to get the gas to flow. It was pretty easy. Take the torch, and without touching the torch to anything, press and hold the button to allow the gas to flow. While the torch is "activated", turn the regulator **** slowly to avoid damaging the regulator, and adjust to propper CFH for cup size. I used 15CFH on a #7 cup with gas lens. This was my first attempt at anything with the welder. Making sure my equipment worked, especially the mask.
My first tack welds without filler.
My first attempt at running a bead. (started at the right and moved to the left) Using filler wire isn't easy at first. I also tapped the tungsten with the filler wire at the end.
My second attempt at running a bead. I believe I'm moving too slow, which is causing all the grey disscoloration. I also encountered a problem. The coupons im welding are .125" thick, and I'm welding them at 110 amps. The filler wire I'm using is 3/32, which is my problem. It's too thick. I'm going to try using some 1/16 filler wire and see which one is easier for me.
Ok, so, this project took way longer to get started than I had hoped. I postponed it due to the transmission situation. The 4t65e is too weak for my goals, even if I spend thousands on a built unit. So I'm opting to go the 4t80e swap route. Today I picked up a second 6th gen Monte Carlo for 700$. It's got some body damage, and the power steering is almost nonexistant, but it runs okay. I'll be picking up a 4t80e soon, and starting the process of geting it mated to the 3800. Wish me luck.
Last edited by WolvenScout; 10-20-2019 at 09:58 PM.
If you've got the time/ patience, I'd suggest documenting the 4t80 swap well. The current threads all over the internet have all kinds of broken links, dead pictures, and mixtures of quality of information. Lots of people could use a good walkthrough.
If you've got the time/ patience, I'd suggest documenting the 4t80 swap well. The current threads all over the internet have all kinds of broken links, dead pictures, and mixtures of quality of information. Lots of people could use a good walkthrough.
I definitely plan on trying my best to document the process. There are still some things I have to work out, like the axles, and torque converter-flexplate mounting. But those will come later, as I need to first get an engine crane and 4t80e.
I definitely plan on trying my best to document the process. There are still some things I have to work out, like the axles, and torque converter-flexplate mounting. But those will come later, as I need to first get an engine crane and 4t80e.
I remember reading one of the threads saying the 3800 flexplates were already dimpled for the bolt pattern location of the 4t80 converter. Seemed pretty far fetched, but was always curious if it was true.
I guess the upside with that is if you got in a pinch and didnt feel comfortable drilling it, a machine shop could knock that out pretty easily, and it would be easy to take them the two parts.
I remember reading one of the threads saying the 3800 flexplates were already dimpled for the bolt pattern location of the 4t80 converter. Seemed pretty far fetched, but was always curious if it was true.
I guess the upside with that is if you got in a pinch and didnt feel comfortable drilling it, a machine shop could knock that out pretty easily, and it would be easy to take them the two parts.
In regards to the torque converter, Dave from TEP highly recommended a better torque converter for the 4t80e. Back when I was looking into putting a cam in my engine, one of the companies recommended to me was Precision of New Hampshire. They sell a converter thats compatible with the 3.48 FDR 4t80e's out of the Olds Aroura, which is the one I'm planning on using. But I don't see a stall speed listed. Also, is the non-viscous clutch a negative or?
Sorry, I don't know squat about 4t80 converters or their aftermarket options.
Looking at that link though, being that no stall speed is listed (and given that its being sold as a stock replacement via auto zone and such), I'd assume it's intended to replicate stock stall speed when installed in a stock vehicle. Certainly your results will be different depending on how much power and weight you end up at.
If you're looking for a higher stall for a big cam or drag racing, it's probably worth a call to see if they can make a custom one with a different stall speed. They certainly have the capability to do it, it just depends if they're willing to do it for a one off case.
In terms of that clutch, I'd think the year of trans would dictate which youd want. Using the best resource I could find (ie take it with a grain of salt):
Sorry, I don't know squat about 4t80 converters or their aftermarket options.
That's just fine, neither do I.
Originally Posted by bumpin96monte
If you're looking for a higher stall for a big cam or drag racing, it's probably worth a call to see if they can make a custom one with a different stall speed. They certainly have the capability to do it, it just depends if they're willing to do it for a one off case.
I might do that at a later date, and just use the converter that I pull from the junkyard along with the trans.
Another thing Dave from TEP said when I emailed him was that the 4t80e needs some upgrades in order to hold high power. But contrary to that, I emailed Brandon Furches and asked what had been modified with the trans in his ls4/4t80e Monte Carlo, and he said nothing at all. The trans in his (I believe) 784hp Monte is stock. Now I don't know if that includes a stock converter, and if his is junkyard or remanufactured, but that's still impressive.
07-21-2019, 03:35 PM
Turbo Kit Fabrication Thread (In Progress)
