Because that would've taken extra time and expense. I would've needed a new pan gasket, and honestly I just want to get this swap done so I can go rip it around some. I'm already approching 1K$ on this swap with the junkyard parts, trans controller, fluids, etc. The drain plug can always be addressed at a later date.

 

Gotcha. Well keep sharing the progress. It's neat stuff!!

 

After a long day, the engine is in as well.



I made a step by step list the night before to keep me on track, and got to step 11 of 42. I can never quite get done the amount of progress I want. Anyway, the engine is in, with all three mounts tightened down. I had to modify the one pictured below, to basically mimic this ZZP mount. There just wasn't enough space to hold the bolt and tighten the nut at the same time. I should've made the mount like that in the first place





The major setback of the day was the rear manifold. With a 3800/4t80e combo, you cannot use the stock rear manifold, because the flange that bolts to the downpipe contacts the trans case. You can use a ZZP turbo rear plog (the one without a downpipe flange), complete custom manifold like I'll be doing, or a modified stock manifold. I.E. cutting off the donwpipe flange and welding in sheet metal, then making a different exit, like fender or hood. So, since I used both manifolds as my lift points, I had to lift the engine out of the engine bay, set it down, take off the rear manifold, and bring it up again. I eventually got the engine and trans mated, and thats when I discovered I had no idea where the trans case to engine bolts were. I had old ones from when I pulled the 4t80e from the aurora, but two out of the three are too long. So basically I have one bolt actually clamping the engine and trans, the other two are just moral support. I also have the engine block to diff brace, so I don't expect them to seperate. Other miscellaneous things I got done were torquing the torque converter bolts (46 ft lbs), and starter bolts (32 ft lbs), installed the throttle body, and removed the dog bone mounts from the head. As far a the placement of the engine in the engine bay with my first try mounts, it's decent. The engine is moved forward for steering rack clerance, and to the left. I can no longer get a socket on the crankshaft bolt from up top. I have to go in the passenger side wheel well. But one thing I love, is that there's absolutely no play. I can't rock the engine in any direction.

Heres how I wrapped my straps around the manifolds. There is no cracking in either, and I had the engine suspended for a long time.





One last bit of progress I made was that AN line I mentioned earlier for the trans. I ran it between the trans side cover and subframe, in order to avoid the exhaust as much as possible. Also, the front fitting is the fluid exit, and the rear fitting near the diff is the fluid return or inlet,

 

I've got the swap basically ready for a test drive, except for the fact that I can't get the engine to stay running. It will crank, and run for a second, but wont stay running even with the throttle cracked open. I did not wire the neutral safety switch, so I'm starting it by jumping the starter/crank relay. Exactly what I'm doing is jumping the 30 pin to the 85 pin for the relay, and taking my jumper wire off once the engine starts, while trying to keep it running with my hand on the throttle. I have the brake booster and evap vacuum lines clamped off. The fuel pressure regulator has vacuum. I've tried starting the engine with the 4T80e in park, and in neutral. I've tried starting the engine with the MAF plugged in, and with it unplugged. I really don't want to kill the only good battery I have for both Montes. Any tips?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T-Ww...ature=youtu.be

 

Update

A coworker of mine suggested I test the fuel pressure, so I did. I let the fuel pump prime, and then watched the guage go from about 48 to 15 psi in less than ten seconds. So turns out the fuel rail was a bit bent out of shape. Well I bent it back into shape well enough to hold fuel pressure, but the car still wouldn't idle. Then another problem hit me in the face like a ton of bricks. My daily Monte has an EGR delete, so I never even thought about putting the EGR valve back on the test car. I bet you already know the issue. There's a big hole in the LIM. So I jury rigged an EGR delete, but I still can't get the damn thing to idle. It runs for about two seconds now before shutting off. It sounds a lot healthier, and I know all the cylinders have fuel/spark, cause all the exhuast runners are getting hot.

 

I posted another video trying to get this swap to idle. What I'm hoping isn't happening is the PCM refusing to run the engine because of not having something plugged in, like a neutral safety switch, or any info from the trans. In the video you can see the EGR delete I jury rigged with some scrap metal and lots of copper RTV. But what I also did was tried using the TB from my daily monte. The sounds in the video are from the open manifold, and there being no air filter. For whatever reason, it runs, and spontaneously dies. I might have a theory. The main O2 sensor is practically exposed to open air, and maybe there isn't enough exhaust gasses flowing over it to get a good reading, causing it to richen the fuel mixture until it kills the engine. But, that depends on if the PCM even uses the main O2 sensor on startup. It may be in closed loop.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6VPJ...ature=youtu.be

 

In order to take the O2 sensor theory off the list of possible reasons the engine won't idle, I took off the rear manifold and crossover, and made some modifications. I cut more material off the back of the rear manifold in order to really get it to fit over the trans right, then I plated that hole. I also took the crossover, and cut a hole in it for the new exhaust exit. This is only Temporary™ in order to test the trans swap. Hopefully when I put those back on and try to fire up the engine it'll stay running.

 

I'm really out of ideas as to why this engine wont stay running. I fixed the possibility of it being the main O2 sensor. The only thing I can think of at this point is the ECU not wanting to run the engine because somethings not plugged in. I didn't want to have to do this, but I might try wiring in the external NSS. Does anyone know if the ECU needs information from the trans in order to run the engine?

Startup Attempt #3

 

Finally, some progress. I went to return a fuel pressure gauge I loaned, and while I was there talking with the guy, he said it sounded like I had a passlock issue. Even though the security light wasn't flashing on the dash, I went and did two of the passlock rest procedures. The first being the key on for 11 mins, key off for 30 seconds, repeat two more times. And the second being the key on, turn headlights off and on X amount of times, key off, start engine. I still can't turn the engine over with the key. But when I went to jump the starter relay, it worked! It runs at partial throttle only though. It still refuses to idle. I also decided to try having the trans in drive this time, with the front end in the air, and the wheels spin! Now I just need to figure out why it won't idle, or at the very least, rig it to stay at partial throttle.

 

Interesting. I wonder what is the true root cause to the starting issues. But, cool you got it to start AND make a test run (sorta). That is definitely and exciting step!