Turbo you are godly my friend such good info man been following your car for so long I remmbr the first time found your car on cardomain and I knew my dreams of turbo were true this before I really got into wanting to mod my car not knowing the possabilities I had heard about the s/c top swaps and bolt on kits and turbo is just too appealing to me right now thanks so much for all the info deff gna be updating with decisions and feedback on certain parts of it when I get to them guys thanks a lot

 

your welcome, turbo cars will always out perform a sc car thats y i went turbo...... any other questions just let me know man. cant wait to see you start building it!

 

Turbo is the way to go, and my top swap just had some issues.

 

My guess is the airraid spacer won't hurt anything, but won't make any differences either. Just my opinion.

As for the L67 TB on an L36, I'm running it now. The link I included was my own start to finish right up. It's "almost" a direct bolt on.

From '97-'99 the L36 and L67 TB used one type of MAF that had a "maf bridge" on the inlet, from 2000+ they changed to a type that had a "maf hump". I opted for a '97 L67 TB, as removing the MAF Hump would be more difficult then what I did removing the MAF Bridge. Once the bridge was out, I then had to modify the place where the MAF sits to adapt it for my '00+ MAF.
I did NOT want coolant going into the TB any more, so I filled that spot of the TB with JB weld (later I also plugged the ports on the LIM and made more mods there). You also need to oblong the mounting holes to lift the LIM so it lines up. And lastly, I had to "hog" out the outlet and match it to the L36 mating surface.

If you look at my link, it goes through all this info.

None of it was really difficult, just took a lot of time.

 

TB spacers should only exist if you are going nitrous so you have a place to tap.

Yes get the TOG downpipe.

I have the ER Rockers, but I'm not sure if the 1.9s would be better for Turbo, that's why I said to ask ZZP their opinion.

 

Hey guys so have decided for the season deffinately goin to get the l26 uim done so that means I'm going I rather then buy the zip I'm gna do the l67 tb thanks maniac cool write up man that's for the match to a l36 uim tho right?

Can't seem to find a whole lot of good write ups for te l26 conversion or the tb conversion to the l26 seem to be finding a couple goods ones and then a bunch of others that seem a lot different methods of doing it do you have any advice or links turbo? I found a pretty good write up on a bonneville forum

 

So basically for the swap to the l26 did u use the l26 gaskets are those the newer al ones I'd rather not continue using the plastic gaskets I have or replacing them I'm scared to see the condition they may be in when I take them off for this and in a couple diff swap I see guys either capping or using the stovetop whatr u using did u go the shortening the egr route or another? I'm pretty sure I understand what needs to be plugged on it.
And for the l67 tb its pretty hard to find a definative write up for it I've found three so far guys doing it diff ways what year tb did u end up using for your build did u remove the hump or the bridge and what needs to be ported for that doesn't the maf hole or something? Thanks for the help

 

Gasket wise, I believe only the LIM was upgraded, so just replacing the UIM you won't have to worry about the "upgraded" gasket.

 

- My L67 TB outlet port was "hogged out" to match the mating surface of the L36 nylon UIM.
- The UIM gasket to my knowledge on BOTH the L36 and L26 is nylon, but it's not nearly the chore to replace or failure point the LIM gaskets are.
- As for the stove pipe, the Dorman UIM gasket kit includes a narrower stove pipe. The purpose of this is so it does not rest right up on the UIM anymore. This has been proven to be a source of failure. You will not need to worry about this failure with the L26 UIM (it's aluminum).
- You MIGHT need to trim the stove pipe shorter going to the L26, as I think it sits differently, but to my knowledge the L26 UIM uses the SAME L36 LIM.
- In my mods, I JB Welded the coolant port on the TB and I also tapped the ports on the LIM that move coolant into the TB and used a little JB Weld on the threads and plugged the ports with stainless steel plugs. NO more coolant into the small ports on the UIM OR the throttle body (keeping the cold air as cool as I could there).
- If you rip out the LIM, I suggest revised aluminum LIM gaskets (and to be honest, if you're removing the UIM, just do it, you're a handful of bolts away from popping the LIM off at that point, not a big deal). I port matched my LIM. Here's a right up on that:
'04 Monte Carlo SS - Port Matched LIM
If you check out more of my site, there's LOTS of info about everything I've done.
- Write up for putting the L26 UIM on an L36 car, here's one from the Bonneville guys:
BonnevillePRO.com • View topic - L26 aluminum UIM on L36--Done! With results!!

 

One thing to keep in mind as far as actual structural integrity of the manifold though- would be to look at the numbers in absolute pressure instead of gauge pressure.

So in an NA configuration, you'd have roughly 15psia on the outside of the manifold (standard atmospheric pressure, rounded off)- and a much lower number on the inside, especially at idle or during decel- we'll say 2psia (just pulled that number out of the air)- so you'd have a pressure differential through the plastic of 13 psia.

Now, lets say you put 15 psig of boost into it. You'd still have 15 psia on the outside of the manifold, now inside you'd have 30 psia- which would still yield a pressure differential of only 15 psia- only slightly different than an NA setup.

Obviously this is pretty over simplified- just saying that at low boost numbers, it is possible to have more pressure differential at idle, than you do under boost.