Ya needle nose would be about the only way maybe some PBD blaster spray.

 

Cut the boot off the wire, then try to remove the boot+wire with a socket?

 

I've used vice gripes once before to grab the part of the plug boot hanging out of the metal heat shield and twist and pull it off. The metal heat shields add a challenge sometimes.

 

Doing my tune up fairly soon here. Planning on going with NGK Iridium IX plugs and ZZPs 10mm LSx wires. I've used that same combination on my supercharged 04 and had not a single problem.

I've heard the rear plugs are a pain to get to but I've got a thexton tool to help rock the engine forward. Hopefully it all works out. Do you guys grease up the plugs or leave em dry?

 

A little anti-seize on the threads and then I drop a dab of die electric grease in the plug boot (helps insulate from weather conditions, among a few benefits).

 

Years ago I read the "trick" on accessing the rear plugs on my 3800. It may have been here at this MB, or it may have been another one.

Like someone has already said, remove the dogbones on the front. Now you stand behind the open drivers door with your right foot resting on the parking brake. Tranny in park. Start rocking the car forward, then back. You will notice the engine rocking forward, then back. OK, you have to time this, when the motor rocks forward, stamp on the parking brake. Wa-La! You can get to the rear plugs!

 

I just changed my plugs and wires recently with my 02 SS at 113K, and I had to roll the engine forward to get the back plug wires off. I just couldn't get my hands back there to pull the old wires off.


What I did was, disconnect the downpipe from the resonator, remove the dogbone on the driver's side, just remove the bolt to the engine bracket on the passenger side and flip it up, put the car in neutral, and you can roll the engine forward by hand. Now you can replace the front 3. Now, on the left side(passenger side) dogbone, there is another hole in the bracket you can use, roll the engine forward by hand and just re-insert the bolt and it will hold the engine in place.


I used AC Delco Iridiums as they were the stock plugs I removed, and a set of Taylor Street Fighter wires. Nice set with lower resistance than stock and heavier silicone jackets and boots.


I also suggest replacing your upstream O2 sensor while you are there. On a high mileage car it will help, and since you have the engine forward it's much easier to get to.

 

I have yet to require the "roll the engine forward" trick. But I have dealt with the tough to pop the wires off problem.
The issues I have had were related to the tin heat shields, they prevent you from getting a good grip on the boot itself. My answer was to grab a pair of vice grips, use those to grab what little of the plug boot was sticking out past that tin heat shield, a good grip with the vice grips and I could wist the boot all the way around to break it free and pull it off.

 

Yea, the heat shields are a pain. I used a pair of channel locks and twisted the boots to break them loose.


And didn't smash any of the shields either!