Looking to buy new sensors for my car today if I need to. My engine idle rough, and has a misfire. Codes give me o2 sensors, which I plan on replacing. But, mass air flow? Any other sensors? Need info asap.

 

We dont have nearly enough info to make a useful suggestion on what to replace. You need to get a scan tool and observe the various readings to determine what's wrong. Just shotgunning parts at it isnt the best approach.

 

I get my parts very cheap with a discount. I replaced the o2s yesterday. Light was off for awhile. Came back on but my rough idle is gone. That was what I was most worried about.

 

So you've got a code for O2s, replaced them, and now the light is back on for it? I dunno, regardless how cheap you get parts, it seems a bit crazy to me to just start buying a bunch of random parts without actually investigating what is wrong with the car.

Does the place you get cheap parts carry a full function scan tool (not just a code reader)? If you intend to continue DIY repairs, it would be worthwhile to pick one up.

 

I have full access to a diagnostic scan tool but its 45 miles from me and I would rather not drive that far then back lol I'm going to put my bosses scan tool on it in a few minutes and see what code it gives me now

 

Bumpin' has a point, shotgunning parts can just waste time and money. Also, have to be careful. O2 sensors can be finicky sometimes with these cars if you don't use AC Delco (some of the other brands are not as tight to the factory spec and can cause weird issues).

If you no longer have a check engine light, but you have a rough idle:
- Check for vacuum leaks. Easy way is misting starting fluid around the engine (specifically anywhere that has a vacuum line) and listen if the performance of the idle changes (if so, you have a vac leak).
- Check for spark plug wire damage, possible arcing.
- If the plugs are over 100K miles, could be a good chance for general maintenance and refresh the plugs and wires.

I have also dealt with coils and ICM issues causing rough idles and full out mis-fires.

 

I dunno, I still think a couple hours of driving would be far cheaper than walking into a parts store and just buying 1 of every sensor, gasket, and part that could possibly cause a misfire. Even with a good discount, I'd still bet there's a least $500 worth of parts.

Trouble codes are only intended to guide you towards a diagnostic path of further mechanical and/or electrical testing to identify the true cause of the problem. They're not intended to be the only test to be done before replacing components.