you have the stock air-box right?

 

i have it but not currently using it

 

DEI (design engineering inc) makes a good wrap and silicone sealer. both available at most auto parts stores. i have a few buddies that used it with no complaints. yes, there are cheaper brands out there, but with anything else in the automotive world, you get what you pay for.

 

what are you using? do you have anything coming into the TB?

the stock air-box is much better than having nothing there... it IS a CAI after all, just not a good one...

 

You have to program your car to run on a 160°, or it will throw codes.

I would use a 180° thermo, if you have stainless steel headers, those actually will help with heat, or you can get ceramic coated. Also a PROPER cold air intake helps with temperatures.

If you need to help with temps while in traffic, get your 180° thermo, drilled. This way fluid can get through it while stopped also.

Some people take their engine covers off, as a way to let heat out. A hood scoop can help bring in some cooler temperatures.

Or you can just drive really fast, that should have your air deflector shoot up more air into the engine bay :P

 

Some of the LS4 guys remove the weather stripping at the cowl to allow heat to exit the engine bay. As stated already, a Tstat with a proper tune, CAI, headers... IDK.

 

If you drop the thermostat temp too low (going below a 180* for these cars usually), you're not going to make any extra power. You are more likely to decrease the power you are making by doing so, in fact.
Your fueling is based on your engine coolant temps, and when the engine is cool it pushes for a richer air/fuel mixture.
A richer mixture will cause a decrease in power (remember....lean is mean) as well as an unnecessary drop in gas mileage (you'd be adding gas you can't burn basically).

The reason that most people run the 180* thermostats (instead of the stock 195*) is because a cooler thermostat can reduce the chance of a hot-spot in the engine causing pre-detonation. The pre-detonation would cause the knock sensors to go off, which would force the PCM to pull timing thus reducing power (not to mention power lost from the pre-detonation itself).
If you are seeing consistent pre-detonation, whether due to a hot spot or otherwise, then you have a more serious issue and the cooler thermostat is just a band-aid. Otherwise the cooler thermostat is more of a preventative measure for when you're pushing a healthy engine pretty hard.

Reducing the ambient engine bay temperature won't hurt anything, but keep in mind that reducing your temps in your engine bay aren't going to lead to any significant increase in power.

-Riggs.

 

Sorry to chime in late on this post, but the best way to reduce engine temperature for the least amount of money is to buy a 180* Thermostat. A 160* T-stat will throw a code in your engine, and your fuel may run lean, not to mention you'll have lots of problems in cold weather. 180* T-stat only costs $15 or so, and an install is pretty easy. An electic water pump can cool your engine down faster when needed, and add a few HP, 3 or 4, but they run at about $300, and aren't that simple to install. Getting a larger radiator can help distribute more coolant through the engine, or upgraded fuel pumps that keep the fuel cooler help, and a Throttle Body spacer, or Throttle Body heat shield will keep your incoming air cooler, and a cold air intake would also help. Cooler engine means more pep (acceleration) and a bit more HP, along with longer life of the engine.

 

Does the hood scoop for the 6th generation Monte have a real vent that allows air to flow in? I've heard the Mustang's is fake, just for looks, wasn't sure if the Monte Carlo one was fake too.

 

If you buy the real one (like from PFYC.com) then yes it's a real scoop.