I normally try to clean the LIM as best I can with carb clean or brake cleaner and wipe it. I would not use brake cleaner around the lower part of the valley (engine block/heads) as it's pretty aggressive and I would not want that going into the engine (even with a fresh oil change that is need after this type of job, I just don't want that stuff in the engine). Use a gasket scraper to get the old material off and then just wipe it clean with Carb Clean. That should remove the oily residue.

Kerosene and mineral spirits can also be used in place of Carb Clean. Remember, after this job, you MUST change the oil. I like to run the car about 100 miles and do one more oil change, to get all the "crud" out that I sent into the engine. ALSO, try to make sure solid debris does NOT go in the engine. You may want to cover the engine with a towel as you clean the gasket surfaces. If some gets in it happens, but you want to minimize how much.

I don't recall any mounting pins on the LIM. I've always done a "dry" test fit to see if things are lining up. After that, RTV it up and set it in. If you have to make small/wiggle adjustments, no big deal. Get working on starting your bolts are in there holes and started (this is your guide to know it's lines up). Once you have all the bolts threaded, you can drive them almost all the way in with a regular ratchet and then once "snug" follow up with the torque wrench and make sure they are in all the way.

 

Thanks. Has anyone used this tool to remove the pushrods? It saves from having to mess with torqing the rocker bolts. I think I read somewhere it is easy for the rocker bolts to strip out?



Push rod tool - YouTube

Though since mine has been done before, then I'd have to hope the dealer properly torqued them down when they did it last. Though it's been 40k miles, so I'd assume if they weren't torqued properly, then something would have shown up by now? Though the tech's name is on the receipt when the LIM gasket was replaced at the dealer. So I might could ask the tech if he used the above tool when he does the LIM gasket replacements. As I'd say they've done alot of them.

 

I never used any special tool for working on the rockers/push rods (never knew one existed). I just removed the rockers and pulled the push rods out. No big deal. That's been done twice on my 3100 '94 Grand Am (same setup as your 3400).

Even if they stripped out, I've heard of guys working around that too.

 

Yeah, but I've got a cheapo Harbor Freight torque wrench. So, not sure how accurate that would be. Plus you also need the degree tool as well. Which I haven't used one before. I did check around about finding a place to calibrate a torque wrench, but couldn't find anyone.

I'd probably just get that tool so you don't have to mess with torquing the rockers. And I'd just assume the dealer torqued them properly when they did the LIM 40k miles ago. Though, they too could of had that special tool since I'd say they've done alot of those LIM gasket replacements.

 

1st - I've heard a lot of dissatisfaction about the Harbor Freight torque wrenches (I've used one once, and the "click" it was supposed to give was crap). So I completely understand being questionable about the accuracy of the Harbor Freight torque wrench. I have used many other Harbor Freight tools happily (quite a few mixed in my collection). Right now I don't own a torque wrench, so I am normally borrowing one (most the time I can borrow a Craftsman wrench).

2nd - What is a degree tool?? If you are talking about when the shop book says "XXft lbs of torque + 90 degrees", there is no need for a special tool. All that means is once it's torqued that the specified ft lbs, turn the bolt 90 degrees. You can use the torque wrench, a regular ratchet or a breaker bar. No biggie.

 

I think I'm going to go ahead and do the LIM gasket just incase there is an internal leak. I'm going to find a used Snap-on torque wrench and have it calibrated. Either if the guy on the truck can do it, or send it to Snap-on. As I believe it will be free.

Do anyone know the size of the chaser for the intake bolts that have the sealer on them? I know there two different kinds of bolts that get replaced. I'm going to replace the bolts with some from Felpro that have the sealant on them, and will chase the threads in the engine to clean them out as is recommended.

I'll also replace the o-ring on the oil pump drive shaft. I have read of some also using a gasket from a SBC distributor on the oil pump drive shaft to further seal it to keep it from leaking. Anyone used one of those before?