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Old Mar 25, 2014 | 07:23 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Crusader SS
I highly doubt GM would manufacture 2 identical coils with different product numbers... That said, today I installed my ZZP ER Rockers, L67 coil pacs and aluminium coolant elbows... It is a rainy day, so test trials were very limited, and unfortunately doing both mods at the same time it will not be possible to speak to them seperately... One very noticed improvement in the butt dyno, the pick up after 3000rpm, a very noticeable improvement..... The only issue is that there seems to be a periodic miss, worse immediately after install and seems to be less and less as the car is driven, just wondering if the PCM needs time to adjust to both mods..... If someone can confirm, that would be appreciated... All in all a very healthy mod and very big on the smile factor...
2 different brackets = 2 different part numbers.

Congrats on the new parts and good luck with your build.
 

Last edited by The_Maniac; Mar 25, 2014 at 09:40 PM.
Old Mar 25, 2014 | 08:26 PM
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Hi guys, hate to put a wrench in anyone's socket but, in 30 some odd years of Military and Professional Electronics, I've never ohm out a Coil. Mostly because you are not measuring Ohms. What you are Looking for is the impedance of the coil. Just like your speakers. In order to tell if there are any real gains, you have to match the impedance of the coil to the impedance of the circuit you are plugging it into. This is Why your amplifiers have a button for 2 or 4 ohms of impedance So you can match it to your speaker setup.
I have no clue if the L67 coils are any better than the L36. You can ohm them out. But if you do not know the value of all the components in the coil pack, your readings are not going to be exact. And there is at least 1 resistor, 1 capacitor and the coil.

As I said, I don't know if there is any difference between the two coil packs. It would be Nice though, plug in Power. Almost takes me back to the days when a Power chip was the fastest way to increase your cars performance. Those were the good old days!
 
Old Mar 25, 2014 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by JC Colon`
Hi guys, hate to put a wrench in anyone's socket but, in 30 some odd years of Military and Professional Electronics, I've never ohm out a Coil. Mostly because you are not measuring Ohms. What you are Looking for is the impedance of the coil. Just like your speakers. In order to tell if there are any real gains, you have to match the impedance of the coil to the impedance of the circuit you are plugging it into. This is Why your amplifiers have a button for 2 or 4 ohms of impedance So you can match it to your speaker setup.
I have no clue if the L67 coils are any better than the L36. You can ohm them out. But if you do not know the value of all the components in the coil pack, your readings are not going to be exact. And there is at least 1 resistor, 1 capacitor and the coil.

As I said, I don't know if there is any difference between the two coil packs. It would be Nice though, plug in Power. Almost takes me back to the days when a Power chip was the fastest way to increase your cars performance. Those were the good old days!
Thanks for the info JC, makes sense, even to a non-electronic guy like me... Any thoughts on the misfire and the PCM adjustment time, if any? Thanks,
 
Old Mar 25, 2014 | 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by JC Colon`
Hi guys, hate to put a wrench in anyone's socket but, in 30 some odd years of Military and Professional Electronics, I've never ohm out a Coil. Mostly because you are not measuring Ohms. What you are Looking for is the impedance of the coil. Just like your speakers. In order to tell if there are any real gains, you have to match the impedance of the coil to the impedance of the circuit you are plugging it into. This is Why your amplifiers have a button for 2 or 4 ohms of impedance So you can match it to your speaker setup.
I have no clue if the L67 coils are any better than the L36. You can ohm them out. But if you do not know the value of all the components in the coil pack, your readings are not going to be exact. And there is at least 1 resistor, 1 capacitor and the coil.

As I said, I don't know if there is any difference between the two coil packs. It would be Nice though, plug in Power. Almost takes me back to the days when a Power chip was the fastest way to increase your cars performance. Those were the good old days!
Bingo - but you also assume I don't know anything about electronics. Oh well...I tried. Put a fork in me...I'm done.
 
Old Mar 25, 2014 | 10:04 PM
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SUHWEET!!! another electrical guy in the house! I have extensive experience in automotive electronics. My second career will be in electrical engineering. impedance is measured in ohms. Both coils have different ohm ranges meaning they flow electricity at different rates. They are wound differently.
Coils off a 180 hp vehicle will output less power than coils off of a 260 hp vehicle.

I got mine installed and the difference was noticeable. nothing crazy but definitely some added pep in the low and high RPM's. I actually managed to chirp the tires going into 2nd.
Damien, i had a miss too. Check the terminals on top and make sure they are clean. mine had some rust/corrosion on one of em. i took fine sandpaper and cleaned it up and put on some dielectric gel on em.
I ohm tested both sets of terminals on each coil before i sent them to you. they were all within the specified ranges.
 
Old Mar 25, 2014 | 10:12 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Jordanshedd5
SUHWEET!!! another electrical guy in the house! I have extensive experience in automotive electronics. My second career will be in electrical engineering. impedance is measured in ohms. Both coils have different ohm ranges meaning they flow electricity at different rates. They are wound differently.
Coils off a 180 hp vehicle will output less power than coils off of a 260 hp vehicle.

I got mine installed and the difference was noticeable. nothing crazy but definitely some added pep in the low and high RPM's. I actually managed to chirp the tires going into 2nd.
Damien, i had a miss too. Check the terminals on top and make sure they are clean. mine had some rust/corrosion on one of em. i took fine sandpaper and cleaned it up and put on some dielectric gel on em.
I ohm tested both sets of terminals on each coil before i sent them to you. they were all within the specified ranges.
Thanks Jordan, good to know. It's funny because when I got home and left the car idling there was no miss, maybe just an adjustment period. I will be driving it around tomorrow and check it out. The terminals were very clean. Good to hear that yours is a noticeable difference. Mine pulls considerably harder above 3000 rpm, I figure the coils are also contributing. Thanks again,
 

Last edited by Crusader SS; Mar 25, 2014 at 10:14 PM.
Old Mar 25, 2014 | 10:21 PM
  #17  
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For giggles, tonight I ohm tested a set of L67 vs L36 coils. I'll admit, I did not notate a difference. I will also admit, I am NOT an electrical guru (I'm sure there is more to a coil pack and power output beyond what I'm looking at).

If you look up the part numbers, I am aware, GM has used the same coils on the 3100, 3300, L36/L26, 3400 LA1, and some N* motors (a v8) and I'm sure more. But the L67 sits alone.

I've put L67 coils on 3100/3400 engines and my L36. I notice a little improvement in throttle response. The change is so small, I normally tell people don't spend big bucks on the mod. But I feel in the $20-$40 range for a working set of coils, it's a worth while mod (I think it's more noticeable on the 3100/3400 engines).

Glad to hear you guys are pleased with the results!
 
Old Mar 26, 2014 | 06:29 AM
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If you guys want to think that you're gaining performance by swapping to L67 coils then by all means go for it. For those that want to know the truth and actually do a little research and testing you will find the same as I did. The ONLY difference between the L36 and L67 coils is the saturation time. The (SC)L67 has slightly longer dwell, but the (NA)L36 engine does not have the ignition timing to take advantage of it. So, what did you really gain? Nothing other than bragging rights that you have L67 coils...oh...and a psychosomatic advantage to increase the output of you butt-dyno.

Those are the facts - deal with it as you may.
 
Old Mar 26, 2014 | 06:52 AM
  #19  
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My question is, is there a difference in the L67 ignition module or is the difference in timing in the programing in the PCM?
03SSLE is right! If the dwell is different but the timing is not right to take advantage if it, then there has got to be a way to adjust the tining to take advantage of it!
 
Old Mar 26, 2014 | 09:44 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by 03SSLE
If you guys want to think that you're gaining performance by swapping to L67 coils then by all means go for it. For those that want to know the truth and actually do a little research and testing you will find the same as I did. The ONLY difference between the L36 and L67 coils is the saturation time. The (SC)L67 has slightly longer dwell, but the (NA)L36 engine does not have the ignition timing to take advantage of it. So, what did you really gain? Nothing other than bragging rights that you have L67 coils...oh...and a psychosomatic advantage to increase the output of you butt-dyno.

Those are the facts - deal with it as you may.
I have not researched the coils indepthly, but I admitted, ohm-ing the coils out, I did find them to all ohm out about the same between L36 and L67.

I have trouble believing a coil has a "feature" that one drivetrain can take advantage of and another cannot. I don't think anyone is trying to claim large gains off this mod (I am certainly not), but their is a slight improvement in throttle response with the L67 coils.

To get bigger, more noticeable results take mods beyond coils.

Originally Posted by JC Colon`
My question is, is there a difference in the L67 ignition module or is the difference in timing in the programing in the PCM?
The ICM in a L36 and L67 is 100% the same part number. The wires on an L67 and L36 are the same gauge/wire type too (at least stock).
 



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