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95 MC Z34 MORE INFO

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  #1  
Old 02-14-2007, 12:51 PM
smolek37k's Avatar
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 47
Default 95 MC Z34 MORE INFO

Thanks to all who have helped me, I have a couple more questions, I will be doing a timing belt job, valve cover gaskets, and temp sending unit replacement, Iwill also change the "O" ring seal, I would like to know what else might be a good idea to replace while I am doing that, I have 114k mi on this car and it still pulls very hard. Any suggestions,
1995 MONTE CARLO Z34 3.4 DOHC
 
  #2  
Old 02-14-2007, 03:31 PM
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Daytona Beach, Fl
Posts: 1,100
Default RE: 95 MC Z34 MORE INFO

i would do whats called the 13* timing mod. if you go over to 60degreeV6.com you can do a search and find the info. for automatic cars is more like 12* but im not sure if it is -6,+6 or +6,-6 so just do a quick search over there. this is basicly resetting the factory timing. it will still produce a smooth idle, but will lower the bower band. meaning you'll have more power off the line.
 
  #3  
Old 02-17-2007, 08:37 AM
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 51
Default RE: 95 MC Z34 MORE INFO

Make sure you have the factory manuals.
I just completed the same work on my '95 MC Z34. You can send the injectors to http://www.witchhunter.com/ and get them cleaned/tested for about $100. I sent mine to them and they found and repaired 1 leaking injector. One new injector for the 3.4L costs $120-$160.
That V6 site is a fantastic resource for what you're going to do. Do a search for my name and you'll get great answers to all my stupid questions.
As recommended, I bought all the gaskets, spark plugs, wires, etc., from the local dealer. Replace your thermostat also.
IMHO, do the uper and lower intake gaskets. Get the intake cleaner from the dealer and clean your intake plenum as it will have PLENTY of muck in it. I also used the cleaner on my heads and piston tops. Also, to do the oil pump o-ring right, remove the rear head (I removed both of mine). Follow the torque down procedure exactly and GET NEW HEAD BOLTS from the dealer. DO NOT RE-USE THE OLD ONES as they are torque to yield.
When you have the top end off, check the heater outlet metal tube for pinhole leaks where it runs below from the passenger side rear to the engine's water pump. Mine leaked after I completede my repairs and it was a PITA to replace. For the $50 it cost, I'd replace it if yours even looks rusted. Mine leaked at the rear low elbow after I cleaned/flushed my coolant system to get rid if the DexCool and go green.
Good luck, take your time, and ask lots of questions.
If don't have thecamshaft hold downs yet, I've got an extra set I could sell you. Make me an offer.
jogas
 
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