I know it has been a while since I have posted or commented on here, but im back now peeps...lol

My car has been shaking (whole front end, including the steering wheel) when I am slowing down from high speeds coming from 80 mph on the highway. Steering wheel starts to shake a little bit and I am guessing that the tie end rods could be the problem or maybe the ball joints.

Since I am very familiar with the Hub/axel area, I was wondering what is needed to replace my inner and outter tie end rods on my 2001 monte carlo. Which, they do need to be replaced anyway. Now, I have came across some good deals on the main parts (tie end rods) but honestly, it looks like a foreign object to me....lol. I also do not know what I am doing so if there is instructions on how to replace it, I will gladly appreciate it....

Thanks in advance for the help!!!!!!!!

 

your front brake rotors are probably warped. not to say a tie rod couldn't be bad also but its probably just the rotors.

 

Well, I had slotted rotors all around my car and just changed the rear brakes and rotors. The rear rotors was GRINDING hard (on the right side). So I bought some new rotors and will get the slotted rotors turned, for even balance (they cost too much to get rid of). I just gotta do the front now and I am checking the rotors up front (which they don't feel uneven). So maybe it is the rotors but I also do here a clipping sound when I roll over a pot hole or a small bump while driving. It sounds like some is loose and its about to fall off while I am driving....

 

Just curious how your ruled out front rotors in your guess? I would say the bulk of the time when you have a shake only when you're on the brakes from higher speeds- its usually warped rotors. Don't know what kind you bought, but many aftermarket/performance rotors aren't up to OEM quality as far as material thickness in some areas (saves them money, but makes them easier to warp).

Just curious why you think both the inner and outer tie rod ends need replaced anyways? What kind of mileage do you have?

Outer tie rods are easy- take the nut off the end going through the knuckle- and pop it out, then hold the shaft- and put a wrench on the tie rod end and unscrew it. Try to count how many times you unscrew it (or mark the threads where it stopped) to try and get the new one roughly back to the same place. Then go to get an alignment done when you get them on.

IIRC, you should be able to check the outer tie rods by jacking a corner of the car off the ground until the wheel is off the ground- and then turning the wheel/tire by hand left and right- if you have a lot of slop before you feel it 'engage' and start to turn the other wheel, the tie rods are worn.

Never done inners before personally, you could always pick up one of those repair manuals from the parts store for your car, they usually give you a pretty good idea of what you'll need.

 

You got a point "bumpin96monte", but the thing is that I do need to change my tie rods anyway. The last mechanic who did it (who i thought I trusted) put my outter tie rods on and told me to get a wheel alignment. Well sears told me that the pin that is holding my tie rod together was barely hanging on and I need to get the replaced. So by me gaining the experience in changing axels, hubs, brakes and rotors, I thought to give a good install on tie rods itself. As far as the rotors go, I bought them at a pretty penny but I wouldn't doubt it that it could be them as well. I was looking at just changing the whole ball joints, tie rod set up completely because it hasn't been done in a while. Well wit the ball joints at least. the miles on my monte is 105,000. I bought the car at 47,000 so I can imagine on what will give out on me (I pray and hope whateva it is don't..lol)

THanks for replying....

 

You do realize replacing the pin is no big deal right? Here's a pic:



The pin is that piece of twisted metal through the castle nut on the bottom. The mechanic that installed the last set probably just grabbed a cotter key from his shelf, and its probably just the wrong size- maybe its too small in thickness, or a little short. All you'd have to do is fold the old pin back to normal shape, pull it out, and go get a bigger size from Autozone or something.

The pin isn't really critical anyways- I'd take a look yourself an make sure, as long as its not going to fall out, I'd say its fine- all it does is insure the castle nut can't turn- and as long as it stays in the hole, that won't happen.

I just hate to see you replace a relatively new tie rod end set just because the cotter keys are the wrong size.

Only reason I mentioned it is because I'd bet its very likely that is what is causing your problem. Shouldn't cost too much to have them turned by a repair shop to get them back flat again to see if that's the problem.

IMO, unless you have a reason to specifically change parts out- I wouldn't just go changing stuff for fun. A lot of times, you end up running into more of a hassle replacing stuff- and many times the failure rate of aftermarket replacement stuff is more frequent than factory stuff.

Especially on stuff that can be positively checked to see if its good or bad (like the ball joints or tie rod ends)- before replacing, I'd check to positively confirm it needs replacing. Just because the car has 100k miles, doesn't necessarily mean everything must be replaced soon.

Here is a link I found:

http://www.aa1car.com/library/ball_joints.htm

I mean, I know people that have went 200k miles, especially on the old grease-able style ball joints, I also have seen people have significant looseness at 50k (from autocrossing and such)- so I'd think its better to check what actually needs replaced- and do that instead.

 

You've been a big help and solved a lot of worries that I had. Which you made a lot of sense as well. I will go to autozone and buy a new one (which I didn't know you can buy them seperate). Thanks a MILLION for the information!!!!!